starter motor terminals??

the main 13mm bolt is the live from the batt and alternator,
one of the crimps is a feed to the solonoid from the igntion key on cranking position.
and there is another one  on the solonoid, this is a crimp too looks like its an imobiliser kind of wire i think, but not got any power down this one or is it suposd to be an earth?  :dontknow:  basicly the motors packd up and im trying to make sure its that before i get a new one.

ive took it of and tryd bench testing it but i cant think what the other terminal is.

thanks

simon

just had a look on mine and only 2 of the 3 terminals are used. 1 to the bat and the other to the solonoid. the other 1 is under the 13mm main terminal and this isnt used on mine

ok, thanks!

anyone else? i didnt know if this was like a wire that has been add'd at a later date.

chears
simon

Yep - My cabby has this wire - not a scooby exactly what it is though.

Might be there to prevent starts when the motor's in gear.

My starter appeared to have given up the ghost, but I've had it apart, cleaned it up (the solenoid was pretty gunked up) and I'm hoping it's sorted now.

Top tip - soak in WD40 before atempting to undo things  :roll:

If you've got the old (Brown) haynes manual, it gives lots of guidance on dis-assembling the starter motor. If you have the newer version, it's pants - just says "if it doesn't work, replace it".

The brown one includes a really handy tip - which is to bend up two pieces of wire (coat hanger is probably sufficient) to hold the four brush-springs out of the way when putting the brush plate back on the end of the armature.

I would also recommend NOT forcing the small stop plate off the circlip that secures it to the shaft - it's a pig to get back on (this will be tonight's job, and tomorrow nights, and the night after……).

bear in mind that a new starter is ?65 or more.

Ali cabrio

cool
chears guys

can u check and tell me if you have got power to it or not? or if its an earth??
ive got the newer haynes so dont really tell me alot apart from replace if broke

chears
simon

Hmmm- I've checked VW wiring diagrams, and still not a scooby.

I cant remember what colour the wire is.

According to various sources;

Solenoid
The solenoid switch has two windings . One is the so-called pull-in winding and the other one is the hold-in winding. Both of them build up (by energising them) a magnetic field what ensures that the solenoid shaft gets pulled inside the solenoid it self.

The pull-in winding is connected with one end to the terminal '50' and with the other end to the '15a' . Therefore this winding get its negative connection over the exciter windings, the plus brushes, the commutator, the armature windings and then over the minus brushes by connection to the ground. As long as the armature doesn't rotate that minus connection is available.

NOTE: When the rotation takes place the pull-in winding isn't energised anymore.

The hold-in winding is connected to the terminal '50' as well and on the other side direct to the ground .

 :dontknow:

So I guess that terminal 15 isn't necessarily supposed to be connected to anything for the purposes of starting the car.

If you don't have a wire hanging around that you think is supposed to be connected to it - don't worry about it.


Ali cabrio

Found this - might be useful - I'll start a thread with it;

For all you folks having a hot-start problem on VW'sfrom mid 1980's to early 1990's, here you go! This solution will cost you about $20 and you should never have the problem again.

This problem typically only arises on cars with Automatic trans.

Basically, the idea is to have voltage going direct to the starter motor solenoid through a switch wired direct from the battery.

A Ford Solenoid Switch (#SS581) can be used, and bought for less than $20. It has two terminals on top, and a terminal on each side. It should have a little attachment plate with a hole in it that attaches to the right hand back valve cover stud with a nut.

Trace the wires from the starter motor solenoid to the ignition. There are two of them and may be partially wrapped in a loom. One is black in color. The other is black and red and larger in thickness. The black wire should be left as it is. The black and red wire should be cut just above the valve cover, where it bolts down. On mine, it is about 4 inches from a connector on the ignition side. Crimp a round connector onto the end of the black and red wire from the starter solenoid to fit over the terminal on the right side (back) of the switch. Tighten it down with a washer and nut.

The upper piece of the red and black wire needs a round connector crimped on it, and is attached to the left (front) of the two terminals on top of the Ford Solenoid switch, and tightened down with a washer and nut. The terminal next to it is not used.
Cut a 24 inch length of wire, the same thickness as the black and red wire. Crimp a round connector onto both ends. The one end attaches to the positive terminal of the battery, and the other end attaches to the left side (front) of the Ford Solenoid switch. Hope I haven?t missed anything. Start the car.

hmm
good read there! chears, ill have a look

OK - Checked my starter last night.

I rested the starter case on the -ve terminal of my battery (out of the car).

Then touched the terminal nearest the starter body with a wire attached to the +ve terminal of the battery.

Loads of sparks - motor spun no problem.

Then - touched the +ve wire to terminal 50 (solenoid), with the starter case still touhing the -ve terminal of the battery.

It responded with a satisfying clunk and smacked the drive pinion smartly against the stop.

Finally, I attached the +ve wire from the battery to the large terminal furthest from the starter motor body - nothing happened (which is correct), then I briefly touched a wire between terminal 50 and the +ve wire

Clunk went the solenoid, and brrrrrrrrrrr went the motor.

Job done.

All I did was clean everything up and apply a little lubrication.


Ali cabrio

cool!
i dont the same and nothing! heard a clunk from the solonoid, but a short zzzzzzzzzz crackle and a wee bit of smoke out of the casing, took it work and got the parts peaople who overhaul and take them as exchange units to have a look at it and they got back to me today saying its absolutly fried! seize to function in the manner it was desgined for

simon

chears