Replacement DX won't work

OK.  After all the issues with my last DX and eventually finding that it had a cracked cylinder head, I chucked a replacement in the other day.

With old DX I had fuel and spark.  With the new one I have neither.  No noise from fuel pump, no fuel and no spark.  The new engine was running a month or so ago in the car from which it came

New fuel pump which works when voltage connected directly
New relay
New ignition switch
Tried new ignition module and nothing changes.
All earths appear fine
Fuel pipes not blocked and pass fuel nicely the switching pump
When earthing centre part of 3 pin dizzy plug the pump primes
No voltage at WUR
No voltage at AAR
All wires tested for continuity and are fine
All fuses fine

Any ideas?  Im fresh out

Help is not just needed and appreciated but vital to the survival of the Golf as the 12lb sledge hammer is looking increasingly inviting

what happens when you turn the key?

Will it turn over?

seems something is very wrong with the electrics, if you jump the fuel pump at the fuse box will it run?
If it does you can test the pump delivery rate and the fuel injectors too.

are you getting voltage to the coil?
are you getting voltage out of the coil?

When turning the key the engine turns brilliantly.

Jumping the fuel pump at the fuse box won't help I don't think as there is no spark to ignite the fuel.  Not trying to shoot you down just trying to understand the damn thing as there isn't that much to it and it irritates the fact that its got to be a simple thing I've overlooked.

It has to be electrical as the engine ran in the old car.  But I don't understand why electrical as it all worked with the last engine (which was broke) and everything has been plugged in exactly as per old engine

The thinking is that if you can get the fuel pump to run by jumping it at the fuse box you know that everything is ok from the box back. 

Also you can test the injection system, and fuel delivery rate. 

As for the spark.
You need to work back from the distributor checking for power to see where the supply stops 

OK I'll try that tomorrow. As for fuel delivery rate, from checking all of the pipes it goes like a good 'un.  Injectors are assumed fine as they ran the engine well a month or so ago

Forgot to mention. Injectors, metering head etc are all from the old car

pearcestu said

As for the spark.
You need to work back from the distributor checking for power to see where the supply stops 

I took the dizzy side of the HT off and cranked.  No spark.

But I am getting 12V at the new coil

If you earth the coil 12v out with the ignition on you should get a spark from the king lead if its all working ok 

OK another thing i can check tomorrow. Much appreciated. Ill report back

Fuel delivery could be a timing issue too. If its out the fuel won't be getting into the bores at the right time. 

did you try the old distributor?

When I earth positive side of coil the fuel pump primes and there is spark at king lead

this is they dizzy left exactly as it was from when the engine was running. What immediately struck me is that the rotor appears 180deg out and that the dizzy itself looks about 100deg out compared to what I've seen

yeah but have you tried your old dizzy? hall sender could be knackered. also the wiring to the hall sender doesnt look too clever id take the tci/dizzy/hall sender loom out and unwrap it end to end so you can check the condition of the wiring

I've not changed any of this as I've been working on the fact that the engine was running in the old car, nothing engine wise touched

rotor arm looks damaged to me as well, swap old bits over. could just be the picture.

rotate engine to TDC and check everything lines up as well

That's with the engine tdc. That's what I mean about it all looking out

ah well, yes the dizzy is 180 out then, assumign its the cam you lined up to tdc and not the crank (crank turns 2 revolutions for every single revolution of the cam and dizzy)

it would work like the above though if you moved all the leads round 180 degrees, so put lead 1 where arm is now then put rest 1342.

yeah thats all wrong there fella !!

The notch and the rotar arm should be lined up and usually pointing to the top left spark plug

1  3

2  4
thats the normal way of putting the leads onto the dizzy as you look at it from the front of the car.

you will need a strobe to fine tune the dynamic timing but it should fire ok setup properly to point at 1 on tdc.