problems electrical problems crap too many problems

right here goes bare with me.
I've swaped my mk1 engine for an S3 18t running qpeng managemnt and put the battery in the boot.
now thats caused;
1) the temp LED to flash which didn't before, anoying and worrying as it's an exspensive cionversion that i don't want to over heat.
2)when I turn on my head lights I loose all power to my clocks. No rev counter, no illumination no gauges. On the upside that bloody flashing stops .
3)when you turn the ignition key to the first click the fule pump should prime. well it does that, trouble is it doesn't stop so if your parked and you want the radio on you've got the pump going. I phoned qpeng but they reckon that it's a rare problem that they haven't got to the bottom of. brilliant! has anyone else had the same?
4)Un related to engine swap my rear heater doesn't work never has I've changed switch for one that i new did work and fuse seems fine?????
5)horn sounds off when you turn the steering wheel while indicating. it started doing this just before starting the engine swap. funny thing is the bloody thing never works when someone's cut you up on a round about.

All I want is a car that works or that could possible go through an MOT would be nice

I know what I'd do….. Ditch the QPEng and use Megasquirt. But I don't think its actually related to the issues you're seeing.

Locating the battery in the boot is unlikely to have those symptoms described, its more like a bunch of other issues caused by poor earths, wrong components (eg fuel pump relay) or incorrect wiring.

Rear heater???

Horn sounding while turning the wheel - contacts within steering wheel not secure.

if the fuel pump is running with the ingnition on constant it will kill the ignitors in the ecu!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what fuel pump relay you using ???


the ecu should only fire the relay for 2 seconds then once it sees a tach signal under cranking running conditions

i would sugest a wiring fault to the relay or the wrong relay

3 sounds like a relay problem either it's incorrect or faulty or has been bridged, replace or repair.

4 check the heater element from the plug at the back with a resistance meter if you get anything other than open circuit it's at least partly working. Let me know what you find

5 sounds like the little metal tab is bent or the steering wheel is mis-aligned you need to take off the steering wheel and have a look. It should be fairly obvious if it's broken or missing.

And no.1 well sounds like it's either not connected at all, connected to the wrong bit or a faulty sender. Could be earths too I guess.

No.2 sounds like you've got some crossed wires from the light switch, or it's faulty. I you can find another switch to test with just so you can disclufe that, run that would be helpful.

Let me know how you go and we'll see what we can do.

As ling as your fan motor is kicking in don't worry about over heating for now while we get the rest sorted :0)

Hope that helps

Paul_c:Abit late to ditch the qpeng I've brought it now ?800 ish.
sorry not rear heater rear screen heater.
I was told by qpeng that it maybe the fuel pump relay isn't a oridginal VW one but do they do them anymore?

Bens_cab
Yeah I thought that having the pump running without the engine on was a bad idea although the guy at qupeng said it aint a problem the fuel would just go back to the tank via the return.
as for what type of relay i don't know a black square looking thing with some sort of metal prongs comming out of it . sorry humor is the only way im guna get through this.

Madferret: I'll check for the resistance I've got a multimeter but doesn't the plug have a shed load of wires or is it just the 2 to the rear window heater? I've had the steering wheel off but couldn't see a great deal wrong the brass pin is raised slightly but not that bad. it just seems that when your indicating its fine but at a certain point when you turn the wheel you toot.
I can't of crossed any wires from the light switch I haven't had it out. the lights themselves are fine but when you turn them on the instument cluster looses power everything turns of but the other lights on the dash work its just odd.

thanks for any help gents

rpatten said

Bens_cab
Yeah I thought that having the pump running without the engine on was a bad idea although the guy at qupeng said it aint a problem the fuel would just go back to the tank via the return.

The guy at QPEng is wrong - it is requred as a safety feature. If you crash and the engine stalls, the fuel needs to cut off in case there's a leaking pipe. Otherwise it would feed a fuel fire. Ask grungeisdead!

didn't think of it that way bloody good point! better not crash then!

how could putting my battery in the boot cause these problems paul?

There should be a connection to the window itself, find that (sorry I can't be more specific never had a look at it myself) I would imagine it'll be around 100ohm but thats purely an estimated guess, but as I said anything other than open circuit, you can try a test bulb on it too, but a test meter is easier.

The switch may not have been tampered with but the cause may have happened since, also check your earths if you really feel the switch is fine (and it may be it was just a starting point).

Not sure what the Qpeng thing is (presumably its a mapping add-on like megasquirt) but I wouldn't have thought they'd touched your fuel pump, that'll be why they won't do anything about it. As I said check its not been bridged in the fusebox.

Once you have the steering wheel off check that everything(stalks wise) is aligned and has the relevent screws and springs, try to simulate the fault and see whats happening from that, it can't be that hard to see whats wrong.

rpatten said

how could putting my battery in the boot cause these problems paul?

It can't. Its something else.

if your using the mk1 relay it wont work correctly you need the later digifant relay

as for the battery in the boot i did this recently i made a earth strap so it bolted into where the rear bumper bolts on i then ran a secondary earth from the battery to the engine compartment

didnt have any of the above issues make sure you dash is earthed to the rocker cover nicely

then ring qpeng and maybe speak to ben leach himself hes the mk1 guru there

usually I would speak to ben but typically he went on holliday when i started the conversion before xmas and i think he only just got back.
thanks to everyone for their help.

any pics of the fp relay?? and the conversion??

sorry ben haven't had a chance yet, I will though. Been having bigger problems with my brakes bineding just posted over in running gear with the hope that the legend Paul_c can come up with something

ben how'd i put pictures on here im a nube?????
well i think that the relay i'm supposed to be looking at is in relay slot 1 and what the relay says on it is:
KRACKER
24.1400.20
kraftstaffpumpenrelais
mit drehzahlbegrenzung
12v
made in germany
>PA66-GF30<

haven't a clue some german gumf