oil pressure warning lights and buzzer

Hi - I've done my best to research this subject,  but I'm new to this forum so might have missed something previously posted: if so,  I apologize.

I have a problem with the dreaded oil pressure warning light on a 1983 Gti.  The oil lamp and buzzer both sound with ignition turned on and won't go away.  I've put a meter across the low pressure and high pressure senders and both appear to be functioning as they should.  I can't see any loose earth connections under the bonnet.  I've also tried whacking the instrument panel as some have suggested!

The Haynes manual indicates  that both senders are wired back to the oil pressure monitor switch (J114) via a 14 pin connector (T14). This appears to be a relay,  but it's not mounted on the relay plate above the fuse panel.  Can any one tell me where to find this oil pressure monitor switch and also the 14 pin connector?  I get the impression from reading various threads that it's behind the instrument console - is this correct?

Any other tips or suggestions would be useful.

Thanks.

Think the 14 pin connector will be the main ribbon to cluster connector? Also the logic/circuit for the oil pressure monitor is built into the cluster, its a L shaped board. The system is linked to the coil/rpm, the buzzer should only sound if low pressure @2000rpm, if its doing it with just the ign on you've got more than the normal issues with this circuit 8O

Be aware that ther are two switches involved one @0.3 bar and one 1.8 bar and one is open then closed and one closed then opened by oil pressure.

I'd be inclined to get a VDO guage and check actual pressure but if its playing up without the engine even running most like to be an electrical/electronic fault. :dontknow:

Thanks Early 1800,  I've checked both the high pressure sender (open and rest and closes when running) and the low pressure sender (closed at rest and opens when running) with a multi-meter and these appear to be switching just fine.  What you say about the circuitry being on the pcb itself makes sense,  so I'll try removing the cluster and see if I can spot anything wrong.  From what I read it seems like earthing on the back of the buzzer itself can be an issue?  Give me a few days and I'll report back.

Cheers.

you have checked the brown earth wire on corner of the cam cover is intact?

Hi,

Yes - seems OK and I get good continuity between the rocker cover and car body (on the front crossmember) so I think the head is earthed OK

I had this trouble and it turned out to be the monitor unit, it's behind the speedo. From memory all Polo's, Golf's, Jetta's and Derby's 1986 to 1991 had the same unit, I got mine from a Polo at the breakers.

Thanks Cedar - looks like this is my next weekend job!  I presume that you are referring to the small 'L' shaped circuit board on the back of the instrument console that I've seen described elsewhere?

Hi Guys - well I dismantled the instrument panel and checked all the wiring - everything checked out OK with the meter,  so reluctantly I've come to the conclusion that the control circuit on the back of the speedo is defective.  I've disabled the buzzer and light,  but fortunately this car has an (unused) VDO oil pressure gauge installed in the centre console, so I'll match up a sender a unit and use this instead.

Thanks for all the input - it was most helpful for finding my way around.

how did you disconnect the buzzer and warning light pls??

regards

remove the L shaped pcb clipped inside the speedo

Carrying on from previous posts - can't sort out the oil light and buzzer. 1983 Campaign. Oil pressure has been checked as OK, now got the dash in bits, lost indicators then got them back and have lost panel lights……….
Anyway, 2 questions - does the L shaped pcb behind the speedo just do the oil light and buzzer? Also, there's a brown and white wire from the rocker cover that seems to go back to the clocks but from other posts there's mention of an earth strap to the coil bracket. There's no sign of this at either end. Should I have one? What does it look like?
Not too fed up yet, but could be heading that way………the stupid thing is that after reassembling the clocks it seemed to work fine and then started off again!
Thanks