immobiliser battery drain???

Hi all. Anyone had problems with battery being drained by your immobiliser? Dont use the car much  . Fitted new battery last month lasts about one week unused then battery is flat. Is it easy to disconnect the immobiliser? Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem. Cheers for any help….

Immobilisers are dead easy, just find the bugger then cut all wires going to it.  Trace those wires you just cut through back to where they come from and remove them completely, sealing up joins with insulation tape or heat shrink as you go…

 or you could just remove the negative terminal from the battery when you park up, then nothing can drain it!

I have exactly the same problem, I remove the battery terminal whenever I park which sort of makes the alarm/immobliser redundant. Doh !!!

I'm hoping to have a new alarm fitted soonish to not only get rid of this problem but also get rid of the crappy one current;y fitted. Its making a few odd crackling noises anyway !!

very unlikely its the imobiliser (not to say it isnt though) the only power it should be consuming is the feed for the led. its basically a switch which is only powered when the ignition is on, before you rip it out find the feed and do some checks for current draw.

have you checked its not the radio?

bezy said

Hi all. Anyone had problems with battery being drained by your immobiliser? Dont use the car much  . Fitted new battery last month lasts about one week unused then battery is flat. Is it easy to disconnect the immobiliser? Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem. Cheers for any help….

If the immobiliser, aftermarket radio or the alarm was  previous DIY fit, then there could be battery drain issues with either of them.  If they are poor quality items then this too could be the sole reason for power consumption.  Find the feed to each and use an electrical multimeter on DC current draw/load when the ignition is off.  This should let you know which is draining the load.
If the immobiliser circuit has been wired by a pro then you'll need to be very careful in your reinstatement. (I used to fit these and the units I fitted were pretty decent and it would be impossible for a novice to remove by retracing the cabling): all cables were black and all numbering removed as part of installation process, so please be wary of trying to cut out individual cables.
You also may have a stuck switch/jammed relay that could be keeping your bootlight etc stuck on.  Even the power of a jammed relay could drain the battery in a few days.

Hope this helps.

I've had EXACTLY the same issue for about a year and its horrible. I still haven't managed to get to the bottom of it as the car was stolen and i've had higher priorities, replacing bits which were vandalised etc..

Anyway, i've asked a load of educated people and they think it could be any of the below faults

Dodgy relay
Bad earth
ill-fitted security system (again bad earth)
Stereo/amp/sub
Dodgy Alternator

I've been told to take the following steps and will as soon as I pull my finger out.

Take everything off the positive terminal apart from the main/original 12v to the coil/starter etc.. take a multi-meter and hold it against the positive terminal and find out what sort of voltage is going into your battery when the car is ticking over.. it needs to be somewhere between 12.4-12.9V and if it is, theres nothing wrong with your alternator.

Next thing to do would be to turn off the ignition and disconnect everything from the positive terminal. Now starting with the main/factory 12v, reconnect all the feeds back to the positive terminal, keep a close eye on any jitters/downward movement from the needle on the multi-meter (which should be meeting the positive terminal).

This is at least a start at diagnosing where the drains coming from. Hope it helps!

Matty

More evidence that wiring was sent to us by the devil himself.