Fusebox connector burning out!

A month or so ago I had a breakdown in a B&Q car park (car that is, not me ). Figured out to be my fuel pump was receiving no power and this turned out to be down to a melted contact on my fusebox connector block….



I assume this was caused by water damage. I have had a leaky screen rubber in the past - which had been rectified. However, this appeared to be leaking again and therefore likely damp/water got onto the fusebox.

I replaced the connector block and sealed the screen rubber up and all was fine. However, last week had a freak downpour and noticed small trickle of water being forced under the seal at speed. So I got the silcon out when I got home and sealed it as much as possible, hoping no damage had been caused.

However, had the same 'lack of power to the fuel pump' problem again yesterday. I pulled the connector block out and, although nowhere near as band as previoulsy, the block appears to be slightly damaged/scorched on pump connection again. Wiggling the wire and connector around seemed to cure it. However, everytime I start the car now, the connector needs joggling before the car will run?

Is there any other issues that could be causing this reoccuring fault? The pin that the fuel pump connector goes onto in the back of the fusebox appears to be a bit heat damaged round the base.

Many thanks

Looks like a bit of a headache for you  

just a stab in the dark.. maybe there's an incorrect fuse installed? or there's a short in that wire somewhere?  :dontknow:  always worth saying something even if it's a complete guess  

I've had a thought about rewiring bits like the Fuel pump so the relay/wiring/fuse isn't in such a vulnerable (spelling ?!?!) place.. this could solve your problem if your still getting water through

what's the scuttle panel like? is there any rust that could be helping the water get through?

I'd check the lead from the fuse box to the pump. There may be a break in it somwhere causing the wire to contact with the shell, causing an intermittent short circuit. The pin is possibly burning out as it is the least tolerant part of the circuit to higher current draw.

As for having to jiggle it, the connector pin may be damaged now - I believe they can be removed and replaced… :dontknow:

Good luck with it though, I hate electrical gremlins!

AL.

I think this is fairly common. I have picked up relay plates at breakers before and noted that the plastic around the pin is melted.

If it's caused by an internal short in the relay plate sending too much current through that terminal the only way you'll fix it is with a new plate.

Peter.

Cheers, I replaced the connector block in the photo with a new one about four weeks ago - the new one was fine until yesterday. At the moemnt i'm hoping that the recurrant leak I had last week may have caused it. Screen needs to come out at some point, think there's a bit of rot under there, nothing visable from inside the car.

Been out again today, seems to be ok if I leave the car for less than 5 min - if I leave it longer it won't start until I joggle the metal connecter in the block :dontknow: . Got two more blocks on order. I'll have to look into the condition of the fuel power wire.

I took apart an old series 1 relay plate and they are physically made of metal plates which fit together really close. It wouldn't take much corrosion to form a permanent bridge between two circuits.

Peter.

Tallpete - sorry for being thick, but what do you mean by relay plate? The plate inside the actual fuel relay?

Cheers

No old bean.

The thing you call a fusebox. Common fault is water getting into it and causing shorts, bad earths etc.

Peter.

ops:  Iyes understands what you be tarking boot now . Got a 2nd hand fusebox ordered from crazyquiff and just picked couple new connectors (to be on the safe side). Think I'll save time and   replacing fusebox and connectors.

This company (think recommended by chudd) do a lot of useful electrical parts, plus they do the mk1 ultimate in wiring…  waterproof fuseboxes