Fog Light Switch

I took my car back for a re-test after replacing a ball joint and wishbone. Unbelievably VOSA decended on ther testing station at that point and carried out a further full test. This time they had two cautionaries….slight fraying of the OSR seat belt (basically where it's been caught between seat back and upper seat fixing point) and the fact that my seat doesn't move forward (basically I have a scirroco base in and the lever is on the wrong side so doesn't marry up with the plug).

Anyway they failed it on Fog Lights. I've checked them and the appear fine so it must be the dreaded indicator light on the switch that doesn't work. I've tried numerous other switches in it but none of them glow. How annoying to fail an MOT on something so small and my 10 day re-test period is up on Tuesday !!!  

Anyone had a similar problem and been able to trace it through their cars wiring ? Could it be a bad earth ?

Incidentally, my oil pressure buzzer is screaming like mad. Not sure if the two problems began together but guess I'm clutching at straws that they're both linked.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Hi, The Fog light switch should have terminal 31 connected to earth. The connection of the bulb to the +ve is internal to the switch. Hope this helps. J.

As the man said you are missing the earth from the switch  

As for the oil Mike .

Quick, simple diagnosis of Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning System by symptom.

Assuming your engine has oil and hasn't yet started knocking, most likely causes of oil lights/buzzers are in the warning system itself.

1) 2 seconds after 2000 RPM or more, light and buzzer come on, replace the high pressure switch.

2) Oil warning light on at idle, especially when hot, replace the low pressure switch.

3) No oil light blinking with key on, engine off, replace low pressure switch and/or repair light in instrument cluster.



Cheers ……………….

Thanks chaps. I'll trace back the earth for my switch.

As for the buzzer and pressure warning light….they both come on as soon as I turn on the ignition, before I even fire up. Originally I was just getting a faint glow of the pressure light, then an intermittent, full on glow but that was rarely accompanied by the buzzer. Now it's permanent light on and buzzer. Looking like clocks out then ?

Traced fog light earth wire back to earthing point, which is just above fuse box and found it had come off the rose. crimped the spade connector a touch, re-secured it and BINGO I have a little amber light on my switch once more  

Whilst I was in the groove I removed the dash surround and clocks, undid all the retaining screws around the back of the clocks so I could get in at that dreaded buzzer. A slither of trim tape between the contacts and that has cured the buzzer. I still have a permanent flashing oil light but my next job will be to disconnect that at the switch end on the filter housing and plumb in a VDO sender to finally link up to my wire VDO Gauge in the console. Both are 10 bar but though. I guess 1-5 best ??  What ideally should I be seeing, pressure wise at tickover and at say 3.5k revs ?

Whilst doing these jobs I noticed the MPG vacuum pipe was a bit distorted at the end. Perhaps it hadn't been pushed firmly home when someone else had the clocks out. Maybe that was the reason I was getting such an economical 99.1MPG ??? Anyway I pushed it firmly home but sadly it hasn't done the trick.

My final issue is that I put 3 new Crazyquiff dash bulbs in to replace the dull ones but they don't seem any better and are perhaps a bit duller. Has anyone else bought a set and seen a significant difference ?

I still have a permanent flashing oil light but my next job will be to disconnect that at the switch end on the filter housing and plumb in a VDO sender

Buzzer and flashing light is a clock function [when it gets the right signal] see

The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

You might have low oil pressure   :dontknow: That is what the buzzer is for .

What ideally should I be seeing, pressure wise at tickover and at say 3.5k revs ?

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