Early fuse box wiring help fuel pump starter loose wires

Hi all i hope someone on here can help or take a look at there fuse box and tell me whats what,
The car is a vw golf mk1 gti 1.8 8v it has the early type fusebox its an x-reg

The loom was taken out while some work was done and upon replacing it a few wires and there locations are a mystery!

Also an old alarm was removed, i believe the alarm tapped into the fuel pump wiring,

Ok i have a red and yellow wire fropm the main fuel pump, not sure where that goes on the back of the fusebox
Secondly there is a red and also a red and white wire from the enginebay loom has a spade terminal on, not sure where that goes,
There is a white and yellow wire with an insulated spade terminal, note sure where that goes,
There is a grey and green thin wire that is also not attached. see picture.
And there is a fuse holder slotted onto the top of the fusebox that has a blue wire jumped across from the back of the fusebox going into it but the two wires coming out of it are cut and go to nothing, my guesses are that this is somthing to do with the old alarm/fuel pump
and that maybe the red and yellow wire and or the red and the red and white wire may go to this??

Ive attached some pictures and circled the said wires

I hope someone can help or shed some light my brain hurts  

the thing circled isnt fuel pump relay, the relay is the one on the fusebox with a fuse in the end. the red/yel and red/white wires run to a clear plastic Y joiner type thingy near the A pillar, can see a piccy of it here:
http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=101628

the other wires which are left over you need to trace them back to where they go, and work out the functions using the fusebox sticky at the top of this section, plus this wiring diagram should help you (read the how to read vw wiring diagrams link in howto section if you get stuck)

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Hi thanks for your help, however i am aware what relay is for the fuel pump but that doesnt help me determine where the thick yellow and red wire from the main fuel pump goes on the fusebox, as i cant see it going directly behing the fuel pump relay area, the links you put up dont really help as the car on the links is a later type fusebox, and the wiring is different,
what would be really helpful is if someone with exactly the same fusebox can have a look at theres and advise me, as im also not so good with the wiring diagrams and im sure i tried to read one but it did not help me locate the positions for said wires.

no the link shows the S1 fusebox, but that wasn't the point of adding the link anyway! it was purely to show you pic number 1 in the thread, like i said the red/yel and red/white wires go to a 3 way jumper block near the a pillar which is what the picture is showing you

have a read of this:
http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=38676

it takes you through how to read vw wiring diagrams. once you get your head round it you'll find it much easier to sort thru your wiring.

on the diagram I linked you to, the fuel pump is on page 2 marked 'G6' near the bottom. the fuel pump relay is at the top, marked 'J17'. with a bit of head scratching you can see the fuel pump power wire comes from plug A pin 8, then runs to the 3 way jumper block I mention above marked 'T'

the pump wire colour is marked sw/gn (black/green) on the diagram but I've also seen them in brown/black, and red/yellow

Hi thanks for the help, ive managed to sort the red and yellow fuel pump wire out, the reason it wasnt obvious wasd because the y terminal that goes to pin a 8 had been removed.
I just now need to sort the following-

see picture-

Brown earth wire with blade insulation on spade is this the main earth for the fusebox?
the white and yellow not sure where that goes,
the other wire circled and the two coming from the fuse on the top of the fusebox as circled in picture.

plug the brown wire into the circular earth terminal block above the fusebox you can just see there.

white/yellow is likely to be the front fogs, i wouldnt worry about them for now just make sure non of them are shorting out anywhere then check the electricals to see if everything is working. if so, great no need to worry. if not, that will help you narrow down what you need to look at both in the car and on the fusebox diagrams

Im almost certain the brown earth with the black spade on it wont go on the rose earth point as the multi block it goes to has the main earth that goes to the battery earth, im sure it must be the earth for the fuse box
Can anyone out there just take a quick look at there fusebox and tell me if this is the case.

mate ive got one of these fuze boards on my mk1. i haven't got much time to check it right now tho, but am gonna need help bleeding my brakes soon and you can have a scope then if you catch my drift :wink:

No probs fella sounds like a plan  

no its not the main earth for the fusebox, its what earths the circular earth point. there are no earth spades on the fusebox, the fusebox earth comes from pin D/11

Hi ok getting there with this wiring, however now thats sorted the car turns over but there is no spark, there is power to the coil but the battery light on the dash is not on?
there is fuel but just no spark,
Im not sure if its somthing ive done with regards to wiring as basically it was a remove and refit.
Any ideas anyone?

the dash gets 12v direct from the ignition switch so i would start there. if that looks ok then i would say you have lost the dash earth.  if the coil is definitly getting a good 12v feed both with ignition on and cranking then the tci or hall sender may be at fault. next i would check the power you get at the coil while it is cranking over, if it drops then i would be looking at the ignition switch

Hi thanks for help, still no joy but before i go replacing things that worked fine before i took engine out etc.. one thing i did notice,
The thermo switch for the cold start and also the cold start valve have a green and white wire this goes into the loom and where it comes out behind the fusebox it is not plugged into anything see picture-



Any idea what plugs into this, i have tried and tried with the wiring diagrams but to no avail,
anyone with a mk1 gti with early fusebox just what to take a peek and tell me..

Also the coil when ignition is off both sides of the coil show 12v negative, when ignition is switched on both sides show 12v positive and when cranking it drops to about 7v

:cry:

Dont worry about that plug its supposed to be like that. The wire runs from the 5th inj to that plug, then back out to the thermo switch, the plug is there for euro models with more advanced engine management if that makes sense?

Hi chap i did wonder that, as that seemed to tally up with the wiring diagram, but im still very confused about this polarity switching of the coil??

Any ideas about the coil and its odd power switching problem??

not sure on that one, it may even be normal? i was plannign to try it on mine for you but i had no time. here is the test procedure for the mk2 electronic ign system, shoudl apply to yours too as iirc all mk1 gti have electronic ign? (look for the 7 pin TCI ignition module in the scuttle)

4 TCI-H Switch unit - testing
1 When making this test, the coil must be in good condition.
2 Remove the plastic cover on the right-hand side of the plenum chamber for access to the switch unit (see illustrations).
3 Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 4 and 2 (see illustration).
4 Switch on the ignition and check that battery voltage, or slightly less, is available. If not, there is an open-circuit in the supply wires.
5 Switch off the ignition and reconnect the multi-plug to the switch unit.
6 Pull the multi-plug from the Hall sender on the side of the distributor (see illustration), then connect a voltmeter across the low tension terminals on the coil (see illustration).
7 Switch on the ignition and check that there is initially 2 volts, dropping to zero after 1 to 2 seconds. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit and coil.
8 Using a length of wire, earth the centre terminal of the distributor multi-plug briefly. The voltage should rise to at least 2 volts. If not, there is an open-circuit or the switch unit is faulty.
9 Switch off the ignition and connect the voltmeter across the outer terminals of the distributor multi-plug.
10 Switch on the ignition and check that 5 volts is registered on the voltmeter.
11 If a fault still exists, renew the switch unit.
12 Switch off the ignition, remove the voltmeter and reconnect the distributor multi-plug.

5 Hall sender - testing
1 Check that the ignition system wiring and plugs are fitted correctly.
2 The coil and TCI-H unit must both be in good condition.
3 Pull the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and earth it to the engine or bodywork.
4 Pull back the rubber boot from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 6 and 3 (see illustration).
5 Switch on the ignition and turn the engine by hand in its normal direction of rotation. The voltage should alternate from between 0 and a minimum of 2 volts. If not, the sender is faulty and must be renewed.