Need help with these two issues ! (SOLVED)

Hey,

My Golf has the 1.8l 8v Engine code "DX"

First Question:

Does anyone know the normal resting place for the temperature gauge on the dashboard ? Mine used to run 3/4's of the way across but since I have rebuilt the entire cooling system it now runs at just over 1/4 of the way across, on the edge of the hollow white box at the start of the gauge. When in traffic it rises to the centre at which point the fan kicks in and cools it back down. I was under the impression that it might be running too cold because I might have bought the wrong thermostat which is causing it to let water into the radiator prematurely.

Second Question:

Does anyone know how to adjust the metal circular plate found inside the metering head? (Correct me if I have the wrong name for the part) It's where the injectors begin above the air filter. I stupidly fiddled with it and I think it is what is causing my car to have a slightly lumpy cold and warm start, I'm pretty sure this is the issue as adjusting it made it start better, it just seems to be extremely sensitive and I'm not sure how it is supposed to be aligned.

Kind regards,

Bill.

P.s. If you need any more information regarding these questions I can post pictures and go into more detail.
 

The "normal" position of the coolant needle is 1/2 to 3/4 scale deflection.  If you have a/c installed and have the sliders in the Defrost or MAX a/c position then your Radiator fan may be running and keeping the engine cooler than it should.

A cold running engine screws a bit with the sensors and computers…. runs a tad rich….

This is also with a 195F t-stat, and the proper senders.

The coolant gauge is known to grow issues with cold solder joints, and with bad grounds and power to the cluster.

The Coolant gauge and the Fuel Gauge are both powered by a 10V stabilizer.  If your Fuel gauge is off, I would start with that first.  Don't buy one from a parts store as they are about 45usd at the dealer or parts vendors.  You need to go to a Electronics supplier and get a  Fairchild KA-7810-ate  or ask for a lm7810 and get the 200mv one.    (be less than a pound).

If you used a 180f t-stat then your gauge will be off, but from the sounds it is pretty close to normal as the fan kicks on when it should the fact that the gauge isn't correct leads me to suggest that you check the power and grounds to the cluster as well as for cold solder joints internal to the gauge.

Testing and Repairing your Flaky water gauge.
Repairing your Flaky Water Temp Gauge | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Are you sure this wouldn't be the product of a faulty thermostat ?

The fan only kicks in when the temperature reaches half way across the gauge which happens when the car is stationary in traffic or something.

But when the car is moving along the road it seems to run cold which makes me think that the thermostat is just constantly letting water into the radiator and the cold air running over the car is cooling it to much.

either way im going to start trouble shooting this tomorrow and I'll get back to you with what I find out.

Kind regards, and thanks for the quick reply !

Bill. 

Im having the same issue, let us know how you get on.

Hey.. when i bought my car the temp sensor in my car was almost on 1/4… had issues to solve before i attacked this.. when i got around to it, i drained the coolant system & flushed with a cleaner, filled back up with water & G13. Also fitted a new temp/water sensor on the Outlet Coolant Flange off the cylinder head (i renewed the Outlet Flange, TTS too - but that's another story…)
Once this was done it ran just above 1/2 way, which is the norm & if in traffic or stationary for long periods it would go to around 3/4 & the fan would kick in… not sure what temp this would be on the MFA as i've not really looked  maybe about 90degs…

The round plate you're talking about is the Sensor plate in the Air Flow sensor.. these are very sensitive & really shouldn't be messed with..  seriously it could become out of sync you may have to source a new one… which i hope you ain' gotta do.
I took off the Fuel Distributor, 2 flat head screws which you have to adjust the banjo's to get at them, this has the plunger in which should move relatively freely is touched, again, very sensitive & do not let it fall out!!! Between this & the Air flow sensor is an 'o' ring, if it's lose then it needs replacing. you may find a bit of dirt & stuff in this area too so give it a clean. Also between the Air Flow Sensor & the Air filter box there is a gasket which can deteriorate too.. Both the 'o' ring & gasket can easily be sourced for about £10. With the sensor plate i cleaned mine & underneath (carbon build up) with CRC spray & it doesn't contain any residue. Also where the plunger goes into the Air Flow Sensor i sprayed with CRC too as there may be the slightest of grime/grit/sand type bits in this so it moves freely (do not use Injection cleaner around these parts, due to possible residue, which is good & used for cleaning a lot of other things)

'Correct air flow sensor is at the front edge of plate this should be neither above nor more than 0.5mm below narrowest point of venturi cone' 'adjusted by bending wire spring stop'… from BENTLEY Manual 5-19 to 5-25 

I stupidly did already fiddle with the airflow sensor, but after much work I have managed to realign it so it works properly now !!

Also in regards to my cooling problem, I fixed it ! Turns out I brought a slightly different thermostat that was opening and letting water into the radiator too quickly so I put the old one back in and bang it's working a charm now. The entire cooling system from the radiator to the water pump is new including hoses.

Thanks for the quick responses !

Kind regards,

Bill.