MK1 Caddy
Posted
#1556674
(In Topic #208901)
Old Timer
Buy advice
am going to look at a caddy on the 14th its kinda came up at the wrong time but is a fair price, MOT'd and looks pretty clean in the photo, its running a mk3 golf AAZ MTDI engine which I don't know much about.
anyone suggest or has knowledge of caddys and can advise me on what to keep an eye out for issue wise with both the body work and engine.?
anyone suggest or has knowledge of caddys and can advise me on what to keep an eye out for issue wise with both the body work and engine.?
Posted
Moderator
Don't know anything about the engine but the body work, interior and running gear is all just a normal Mk1 in principle.
So all the same rules apply, rusting wings, rear arches, door seals etc…
But I would watch out for is the rear beam and especially the tailgate for rust.
Do forget to take a magnet with you to check for filler around the body work! 😉
Happy New Year. 👍
So all the same rules apply, rusting wings, rear arches, door seals etc…
But I would watch out for is the rear beam and especially the tailgate for rust.
Do forget to take a magnet with you to check for filler around the body work! 😉
Happy New Year. 👍
Sent by a smartphone and not a smartperson!
Play Guess the Asking Price 'SEASON 4' as of Sunday the 29th of October 2017.
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=chat%2Fmk1-golf-chat_2%2Fguess-the-asking-price_2
OLD.
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=chat%2Fmk1-golf-chat_2%2Fold-guess-the-asking
Ever wondered who's behind the scenes of this forum?
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/index.php?page=committee
Mike
There's me building mine 28 years ago, almost finished!
Be proud of your VW Golf Mk1, it's very special!
Play Guess the Asking Price 'SEASON 4' as of Sunday the 29th of October 2017.
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=chat%2Fmk1-golf-chat_2%2Fguess-the-asking-price_2
OLD.
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=chat%2Fmk1-golf-chat_2%2Fold-guess-the-asking
Ever wondered who's behind the scenes of this forum?
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/index.php?page=committee
Mike
There's me building mine 28 years ago, almost finished!
Be proud of your VW Golf Mk1, it's very special!
Posted
Moderator
They go around the 'B' pillar - especially at the seam that runs at about the same level as the top of the door. These are very often '''smoothed' ie it was so rusty its full of filler
Check around the seal to the rear window as the bulk head also goes along the deal and the seam about half way down. Check inside and outside if possible.
The spare wheel mounts behind the passenger seat. check out this area as it rusts due to the wheel banging about.
Check the top and underside of the bed. It's hundreds for a new one and (surprise, surprise!) they rust. They're spot welded to the frame that can be seen underneath, to replace it there is about 1 milliion and three spot weld to drill out.
The rear beam mounts also go. Also check the trailing edges of the cills as if it's been used as a work truck that tends to mean mud. It gets in the end of the cills and rots from the inside out.
Being a caddy it should have a rubber mat not a carpet. Lift and check underneath.
As for the engine. The TDI's are generally put toether at home. Check the quality of the engine mounts. Find out if they were bought or made. Check the hydro clutch system (if it's running one). Again it's got to be made so check the quality of the pedal linkage.
Ask what fuel pump and turbo is being used. I believe it's usual to use a Land Rover pump and a Shogun turbo. Again check the mountings and state of the welding and the look of the components. See if there are any receipts for turbo re-build etc.
Other than that same a Mike says. Rust, rust, rust and possibly a bit of rust. The buying guide is also useful.
There is a suggestion that buying someone elses work is not the best thing to do as you never know exactly whats been done. Why is he selling after doing all this hard work?
Be careful and expect issues with the engine conversion would be my advice!
Check around the seal to the rear window as the bulk head also goes along the deal and the seam about half way down. Check inside and outside if possible.
The spare wheel mounts behind the passenger seat. check out this area as it rusts due to the wheel banging about.
Check the top and underside of the bed. It's hundreds for a new one and (surprise, surprise!) they rust. They're spot welded to the frame that can be seen underneath, to replace it there is about 1 milliion and three spot weld to drill out.
The rear beam mounts also go. Also check the trailing edges of the cills as if it's been used as a work truck that tends to mean mud. It gets in the end of the cills and rots from the inside out.
Being a caddy it should have a rubber mat not a carpet. Lift and check underneath.
As for the engine. The TDI's are generally put toether at home. Check the quality of the engine mounts. Find out if they were bought or made. Check the hydro clutch system (if it's running one). Again it's got to be made so check the quality of the pedal linkage.
Ask what fuel pump and turbo is being used. I believe it's usual to use a Land Rover pump and a Shogun turbo. Again check the mountings and state of the welding and the look of the components. See if there are any receipts for turbo re-build etc.
Other than that same a Mike says. Rust, rust, rust and possibly a bit of rust. The buying guide is also useful.
There is a suggestion that buying someone elses work is not the best thing to do as you never know exactly whats been done. Why is he selling after doing all this hard work?
Be careful and expect issues with the engine conversion would be my advice!
Posted
Old Timer
Cheers I have the buying guide for the MK1 saved, only thing is if I get this caddy then my Tin top is going to be neglected for a while longer.
Posted
Moderator
Yeah, that tends to happen don't it!
I've been working on my tinny, but seeing as Lady Borednow's Arosa decided to have a fit I had to 'play' with Clive (her cabby) to check that after being stood for three months that he's still good to go in case she's killed Alf.
Started first time and everything still works except an indicator! I love Clive! He fixes himself
I've been working on my tinny, but seeing as Lady Borednow's Arosa decided to have a fit I had to 'play' with Clive (her cabby) to check that after being stood for three months that he's still good to go in case she's killed Alf.
Started first time and everything still works except an indicator! I love Clive! He fixes himself
Posted
Old Timer
my tin top has been off the road since may and has been sitting in my friends motorsport shop since, but kinda of need another car for work. and the mk1 is going a little bit to far to be driven everyday.
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.