Crankshaft pulley bolt removal

Hi all, has anyone got any advice on removing the bolt at the centre of the crankshaft pulley on my 1.8T? I'm just starting to strip the engine down for re-paint and rebuild but can not remove this bolt. I've tried my 1m breaker bar to no avail and I've also bought an impact gun just for removing this bolt and nearly burnt the motor out . My next plan is to drill it out as it needs replacing anyway, my only concern here though, is that I won't be able to remove the stud. Any advice would be greatly received.

Andy.

Have you tried to lube it up with anything Andy?

Trying to remember the stuff I used. JonP recommended it to me and it did the trick with anything I used it on such as rear beam bolts, manifold and rear suspension IIRC.

Scrap that I have remembered it this stuff………



Available from Eurocarpats.

I'll get some tomorrow mate, just been using WD40.

Cheers bud

     

get some heat on it,it will have been loctited in,then try again with a good quality impact gun.

Whats the specified torque for it?

That should give you an idea of how tight it is.
I've just replaced the timing belt on my discovery and the front pulley on that was torqued to 300Nm. I had to use 6ft of tube over a 3/4" drive socket and bar to get that to shift. the other issue was stopping the engine turning whilst trying to undo it.
1/2" drive was too weak and just flexed.

jaybo said

get some heat on it,it will have been loctited in,then try again with a good quality impact gun.

Was thinking of heat but I wasn't sure if the heat transfer would damage anything else?

Yomp said

Whats the specified torque for it?

That should give you an idea of how tight it is.
I've just replaced the timing belt on my discovery and the front pulley on that was torqued to 300Nm. I had to use 6ft of tube over a 3/4" drive socket and bar to get that to shift. the other issue was stopping the engine turning whilst trying to undo it.
1/2" drive was too weak and just flexed.

I read somewhere the torque is 160Nm I've got a 5' 3/4" drive breaker bar at work, might have to nick that but like you say, how do I stop it turning? the engine is in my engine stand, on wheels  I keep chasing it around the unit

Melteddrummer said

I read somewhere the torque is 160Nm I've got a 5' 3/4" drive breaker bar at work, might have to nick that but like you say, how do I stop it turning? the engine is in my engine stand, on wheels  I keep chasing it around the unit

If you still got the flywheel on it then screw a bolt in one of the clutch cover plate retaining threaded holes but leave it protruding. Put another m12 bolt in one of the block to gearbox mounting bolts again leave it long put one end of a 19mm / largish spanner on one bolt and the other end on the other bolt while turning the flywheel in an anti clock direction until the spanner gets jammed between the two bolts and that will lock the crank. You may have to lower the engine to the ground though.

like this……….

Good Idea Yomp, the flywheel is off atm but I can drop it off the engine stand and put it back on no problem. I'll give that a try with the breaker bar as well

Cheers dude!!

Oh that's a good idea. Was about to suggest a flywheel lock if you can get them for these? Used one on my 944 before and it was spot on

Does it matter if I come off the timing marks, seeing as I'm stripping the engine completely?

It's only a problem if you've removed the timing belt.
If you have and you are stripping the entire engine then take the head off before you turn the crank.

block o wood wedged in the crank better option, its that tight you'll probably bend/snap the bolt in the flywheel if you use the trick above!

case of put it in a stand and get the largest lever you can find to crack it loose. have to have someone standign on your engine stand as well probably as it'll want to tip over!

personal experience with this helping a mate do his, i wasnt really heavy enough to act as a counterweight but we got there in the end

Yomp said

It's only a problem if you've removed the timing belt.
If you have and you are stripping the entire engine then take the head off before you turn the crank.

The belt has been off for ages but I've been careful to keep all the timing marks as they were. The cog behind the crankshaft pulley has previously been marked up as well.

 If I have to move the crank to jam the timber in, can I just turn it back to the marks then remove the head?

rubjonny said

block o wood wedged in the crank better option, its that tight you'll probably bend/snap the bolt in the flywheel if you use the trick above!

case of put it in a stand and get the largest lever you can find to crack it loose. have to have someone standign on your engine stand as well probably as it'll want to tip over!

personal experience with this helping a mate do his, i wasnt really heavy enough to act as a counterweight but we got there in the end

Cheers for that John, now I come to think of it, I'm sure I did that with the DX engine.

It not worth the risk  turning the crank with the belt off if the heads on.
Take the head off before stripping the bottom end if your fully stripping the engine anyway.

Ok mate, I'll do that   Thanks again.

ah yeah if the head is still on definitly take that off first, if something slips or gives way it could slip and smash into the valves. alternatively you could take the cams out instead, that way the valves would all be closed. but yeah, may as well take the head off if you're stripping the lot down anyways

Coolio, cheers bud