Body Filler! what do you advise
Posted
#1035084
(In Topic #123398)
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Body Filler! what do you advise
just had rear arches welded and some other things,
which is the best filler to buy which is the best to sand and get a good finish
any help!
which is the best filler to buy which is the best to sand and get a good finish
any help!
Posted
Local Hero
Best filler - none. For repairs in visible areas, accurately weld the repair areas eg using joddler + overlap or butt welding, then remove the excess weld metal with a grinder then grinder-mounted flap disc. A high build primer can be used to fill in the scratches left by the flap disc.
Posted
Old Timer
yup, filler is purely to finish off if you get a few minor lows from welding, or to cover up a spot/plug weld. Never to cover up excess weld or for re-shaping!!
If it's ground back properly you wont need any!!
I find a can of bodyfill high build works better than any filler!!!
JOn.
If it's ground back properly you wont need any!!
I find a can of bodyfill high build works better than any filler!!!
JOn.
Posted
Settled In
problem is someone bodge he welding and aint level
Posted
Local Hero
The problem is, filler absorbs moisture, bulges and eventually cracks, spoiling the paintwork over the top of it. There's always lead loading???
Posted
Settled In
ok to put photo up so u guys can give me advice what to do!
photos will explian more
photos will explian more
Posted
Settling In
U-pol east sand 1st, then top stop gold, welding cause the metal to warp the surrounding area on the panel, and will therefore need to be filled 1st with U-pol easy sand, this will fill too the thickness you need, then a very thin skim of Top stop gold to eliminate any pinholes and to fine tune the shape required.
There is always the old school option of leading, but you wont find many people that will do that cause of the risk of lead poisoning!
There is always the old school option of leading, but you wont find many people that will do that cause of the risk of lead poisoning!
Posted
Old Timer
i agree with the last
1981 1600 gti was silver now mars red!!
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Posted
Settling In
I have a fairly good idea of what to do, been a panel beater and sprayer for 12 years lol
Posted
Old Timer
thats exactly the stuff we use in our bodyshop
1981 1600 gti was silver now mars red!!
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Posted
Settled In
was going put photos on, the metl as warp about 2mm of filler should level it.
custom sparying, if you live near blackpool! i would let you take charge of my golf
thank you!
custom sparying, if you live near blackpool! i would let you take charge of my golf
thank you!
Posted
Settling In
No problem whatsoever mate, unfortunatly i live down in Cornwall tho!
Posted
Settled In
i wanna move down there! i go down ow and again, will have to have to say hi when down!
Posted
Settling In
Let me know when your down next! If you need any more advice on bodywork let me know
Posted
Settled In
thank you, i will do, well be down when cars done,,,,, hopefully not long, but its taking ages lol
ohh any change
after market wings hard to fit is it wise cut bit of back to make them fit, or any techniques
ohh any change
after market wings hard to fit is it wise cut bit of back to make them fit, or any techniques
Posted
Old Timer
I know what you're saying about warping, but if it's done properly it wont warp.
if somebody did the arches and they're sh*te take it back and make them get it right, or don't pay for it!!!!!
I find most garages haven't a clue about bodywork, they tack and fill.
I was working on my mates mini the other week, which wasn't good at the back and in the inner arch. His grandad, who's family has been in the business for pretty much 100 years (seriously, first garage between lincoln and skeg in the early 1900s lol) told us, Just leave the rust and plat it, wont make any difference. Also reconned we shouldn't be doing it tack-at-a-time and that seam welding and grinding back wouldn't distort the thin 80's british steel…
I'm a welder fabricator and it only warps if too much heat is put in at once!!!
Sounds like you got ripped off to be fair.
Jon.
if somebody did the arches and they're sh*te take it back and make them get it right, or don't pay for it!!!!!
I find most garages haven't a clue about bodywork, they tack and fill.
I was working on my mates mini the other week, which wasn't good at the back and in the inner arch. His grandad, who's family has been in the business for pretty much 100 years (seriously, first garage between lincoln and skeg in the early 1900s lol) told us, Just leave the rust and plat it, wont make any difference. Also reconned we shouldn't be doing it tack-at-a-time and that seam welding and grinding back wouldn't distort the thin 80's british steel…
I'm a welder fabricator and it only warps if too much heat is put in at once!!!
Sounds like you got ripped off to be fair.
Jon.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
good bodyshops use a very, very light skim to smooth out the odd dimple or pit. thats about it.
There are of course some who create massive wobbly canyons and load them full of filler…
Unfortunately nowadays a lot of shops go for the latter option which is sad. I've seen a few "totally restored" cars that are loaded with filler all over and they were done by professionals. Skip's mini is a prime example as the filler that his esteemed father put into it has all started to crack and split out after bairly 3months of daily use.
Jon.
There are of course some who create massive wobbly canyons and load them full of filler…
Unfortunately nowadays a lot of shops go for the latter option which is sad. I've seen a few "totally restored" cars that are loaded with filler all over and they were done by professionals. Skip's mini is a prime example as the filler that his esteemed father put into it has all started to crack and split out after bairly 3months of daily use.
Jon.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Old Timer
I agree with Jelly belly…. pattern panels are a nightmare, I'm just glad mine are hidden under the wheel arch and behind the bumper!
I don't think anyone is that good at welding/grinding repairs on car panels that no filler would be used anywhere! 8O Maybe if you had loads of time you could get there, but I'm sure it would cost far more in time and money in the long run.
Minimal use is the best way for sure, using high build primer is a long way round of achiving the same result.
My drivers rear wheel arch is full of the stuff, god knows why, but that certainly hadn't cracked out, it's taken some serious effort to get rid of it!
Most people on here are enthusiasts, not pro's, so the original question was a good one!
I've certainly learned a bit from the bodyshop guys! Thanks
I don't think anyone is that good at welding/grinding repairs on car panels that no filler would be used anywhere! 8O Maybe if you had loads of time you could get there, but I'm sure it would cost far more in time and money in the long run.
Minimal use is the best way for sure, using high build primer is a long way round of achiving the same result.
My drivers rear wheel arch is full of the stuff, god knows why, but that certainly hadn't cracked out, it's taken some serious effort to get rid of it!
Most people on here are enthusiasts, not pro's, so the original question was a good one!
I've certainly learned a bit from the bodyshop guys! Thanks
Projekt Frustration :
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
White 1991 Clipper. Lowered over polished zender rims, Single 40 dellorto on lynx manifold, kent cam, full stainless 'zorst / manifold, powerflex bushed and braced. Not the fastest car, but sounds super nice!
Still going after 12 years… never said it was a quick fix! Time is not my friend.
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