Warm Up Regulator Question

Having recently purchased my 1.8 Gti I noticed that the Warm Up Regulator (WUR) was not loose.

I removed the bolts holding gave it a clean in situ (leaving the fuel lines connected) and then came to refit it.

I notice that the parts catalogue states the part number for the DX engine as 02 6 133403, however mine has the part number 02 7 133403.

I dont think fixing bolts are correct.  On the parts catalogue they fixing bolts are listed as "M6x30 socket head bolts" - I have slotted head bolts that are 50mm long not 30mm. BUT I need at least 35mm to reach through the body of the WUR to the spacer??

Why is this 027 WUR not shown on ANY VW parts list and what are the correct bolts to use??????

Just to add to the fun the threaded holes in the spacer have stripped (!) and one of the recessed socket headed bolts holding the spacer to the block has been rounded off in the past!!!  Happy days!
 

 

Photos.

That is not a UK spec Mk1 WUR. It has a rear vacuum driven diaphragm. Usually in these ones there is a vacuum take off pipe on the side of the WUR, this senses the throttle being banged wide open, drops the WUR pressure and momentarily enriches the mixture.

If the cold and hot control pressures are fine and that there is a linear progression during warm up then it will be fine. It should be mounted tight to the block though as the heat of the engine accelerates the increase in WUR pressure.

Ade

Dont quite understand your answer.  There is no vacuum pipes going to the WUR - it is purely temperature driven by the looks of it.

thats a 16v WUR, the port on the side is for vacuum enrichment and needs plumbing into the inlet somewhere to work.  its a popular mod when you're uprating the injection system after engien work.

the part number you have there is superceeded by 035133403g which is probably why you couldnt find it on the original number

John,

Thanks for the info.  The cars new to me so still trying to understand it all!  

I've just looked at the WUR and the "port" has a "blank" screwed into it - by VAG???/"A another" - and the car is very running sweetly with this set-up.  I am still baffled that my part number does not appear on the partsbase.org parts list for any VAG car??? and yet my part number WUR is for sale on German eBay????

So the big questions is, do I leave it alone as the engine seems happy or does it need vacuum plumbing??

Look forward to your thoughts.

like i say the number on the part has been replaced by the new one above, this is why you cant find it on that site. you need a copy of etka with part number/history search to see the older number

if you're happy with the car as is you can probably leave it. or plumb it up temp and see if its any better!

WUR's can be a pain so if its working I would leave it alone  

That said I have 2 or 3 spares in the garage I think, not sure which ones work and don't but can look at the part numbers for you and if you covered postage, send them out to you and just pay for the ones that work if you did want one ?

richyhill said

WUR's can be a pain so if its working I would leave it alone  

That said I have 2 or 3 spares in the garage I think, not sure which ones work and don't but can look at the part numbers for you and if you covered postage, send them out to you and just pay for the ones that work if you did want one ?

I wouldn't play without a fuel pressure gauge to measure the cold and hot fuel pressures that the WUR is giving. The real danger is that your hot pressure is too high and you run the car lean at higher revs, that leads to excessive heat and piston damage.

The 16V pressures are not the same as the 8V ones, but can easily be adjusted to the same by drifting the bimetallic mount spigot in or out, on the 16V one you can also do the "WUR" mod by opening up the brass cap on the back to reveal an Allen headed adjuster that allows you to play with the control pressure.

The vacuum pipe should be attached as that sets the rest pressure and gives you a little more fuel when opening the throttle rapidly. That WUR should be combined with the larger throttle body to get the best results though.

There is a diaphragm in the 16V, this can puncture and that stops the fuel enrichment working, gives you a vacuum leaking and the engine will run rich.

Crickey never new there was so much to them, when I had problems with mine on the cabby's I was just bolting ones on and off to see if it solved running issues

Does anyone have a spare/unwanted "spacer plate" that the WUR is fixed to, and is fixed to the engine block - as both the WUR fixing holes have stripped on mine???????