replacing cylinder head

hi, after recent problems with my car, i've been told that it is due to a burnt out valve. I'm planning on replacing the cylinder head tomorrow, is there any special tools i will need, apart from a torque wrench and something to remove the exhaust manifold c-clamps? if i mark up the timing belt, is it an easy enough swap? thanks dean.

Depending on your engine, you may need a 12-spline tool to get the cylinder head bolts out. These aren't particularly common tools, although they are available from GSF I believe.

It's not a particularly difficult swap - there's plenty of room around the engine, so most of the bolts on the head you need to get to are accessible.

Be prepared for a few sheared exhaust manifold studs - I'd arm myself with a new set of them for the replacement head, plus some nuts, if you haven't already done so.

A new set of gaskets (inlet manifold, exhaust manifold, manifold to downpipe, and a head gasket (obviously)) is also a good idea.

Here's a link to my resto thread where I changed my head gasket

HTH

Rich

ok got the bits, welll still need a cylinder head as of… but does anyone know the torque settings for the head bolts???


thanks dean

deanosupremo said

ok got the bits, welll still need a cylinder head as of… but does anyone know the torque settings for the head bolts???


thanks dean

They're normally printed on the packet, of a new set of bolts. But they'll be in Haynes manual too. I believe its an initial torque followed by a 90? turn all bolts then another 90? turn on the bolts (they're stretch bolts and can't be renewed). Also it has to be fairly accurate - I've heard stories of people going slightly over the torque required and snapping a bolt.

can someone please do me a massive favour please and tell me what torque settings i need for head bolts… there are no haynes manuals at my local car shop for a golf…    thanks in advance

Dean

Direct from the bible:

12mm socket head

Stage 1 40Nm or 29lbft
Stage 2 60Nm or 44lbft
Stage 3 75Nm or 55lbft
Stage 4 Tighten further 1/4 turn

10mm socket head

Stage 1 65Nm or 47lbft
Stage 2 Tighten further 1/4 turn

Hope this helps

Tim.

thankyou

well got round to replacing the cyl head today, got down to swapping the inlet over and found a breather missing between injector 3 and 4, then noticed the injector holes were different and non-interchangeable… so i've had to put the old head back on, what head is this for? whats worse is i cant get the manifold to join back to the downpipe correctly, is there a knack to it?

thanks dean

sounds like an early dx and a late dx head,its to do with the idle valve, the bit in between 3&4,The c clamps are a git to do,use a jack to hold it in place then mess with the c clamps(use exhaust clamp trick) :dontknow: