Please help with my 1.6 gti

I hope that somebody here can help me to get my beloved golf going again.

The car had cold starting problems.  A mechanic advised me to change the cold start injector and while I was about it change the metering head because mine was full off gunk from a previous problem with water in the fuel.

I took off the old metering head and all of the fuel lines but couldn't undo the union on the top (which leads to the control pressure regulator?).  So I thought I'd just try changing the injector and put the old head back into place.

I did just that, bolted the old head back on but now the car is a non starter.

I've been told that to change the head is a simple bolt off / bolt on job which can't go wrong.  Clearly this has gone wrong.

Can anyone tell me what can possibly have happened?  I can't afford to get the car towed to a garage unless I really, really need to.

pebbles,

Do prowlers injector test.  This will identify if fuel is being delivered to the engine.  If no fuel do a pump flow test.

Do the test on the CSI amd thermo time switch.

Verify spark is good at each cylinder and king lead.

Once you have done those report back your findings.

I've been hard at work the past couple hours on the car

Injector test : at first the flow was erratic between different injectors but after swapping them over a few times and cleaning them out with carb cleaner all the flows now seem to be pretty much the same.  At least they are all within the required percentage of each other.

I've not tested the CSI

There is a spark at each plug.  Using the HT Lead against Block method.

I forgot to say that before I started this.  The car would fire temporarily if I sprayed induction cleaner into the air box.  ie while it burned this off it ran.

I want to put it back together now to see if it runs but before I do - do I need to check if the rate of flow through each injector is correct?  How do I measure that?

Also - how do I get the old seals off the injectors? Can I just cut them off?  Will the new ones I splashed out on (50p each!) just roll into place?

I also noted that the plate in the air flow meter needs to be about half way to fully open before any fuel flows - Is that correct?  If not how can that be adjusted?

Hope you can get back to me soon.

Another quick update

I put it all back together.

Started straight away.

I am the happiest man in the whole of this lovely sunny country.

Thanks for your help.

ps.  The car has recently started 'crunching' into second gear.  I plan to just change the gearbox oil and see if that helps.  You think it will?

pebbles,

Nice feeling when it works!  Sounds like the air flap might have been sticking.

Gearbox,  Make sure your clutch adjustment is correct.  Replacing or just topping up the oil may help.

2nd gear crunching is a known weak spot with this gearbox

      As Rich says try an oil change -synthetic- may help , don't do racing changes until the box is warm .I have to tease mine until its warm or i get the crunchie effect . If you decide to replace only buy a box you no is sound , there is nothing worse than changing your gearbox for a good "Ebay" bargain to find its just the same . [From experience by the way].

My box has been 2nd gear crunching for 7,000 miles so don,t worry about early failure …Its on my list to do but not urgent …

The first time I change into 2nd in my Caddy Sport is a crunchy moment and it's only done 72,000 !  They all do it when cold eventually, so don't worry too much ……….
Cheers,
Mark