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Overheating super quick

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Overheating super quick

As above, Ive changed the oil / filter, coolant, put an aluminum rad in, and the water temp light flashes on with in a mile now.
could it be the head gasket on the way out??
Or any other ideas??

Cheers
Jim  :banghead:

Spanks

Jim

xx

GoOnJustTouchIt

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did you loosen the top hose to the rad and let the engine run until the fan kicked in to remove any trapped air? if not that could be the problem

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how hot does the gauge show? the light is also water level warning on some models

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the water is at a good level, it came on instantly when i started it up, then it flashed off?!
the oil cap has some white residue??
does that mean its the head gasket for sure??
cheers

Spanks

Jim

xx

GoOnJustTouchIt

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was it overheating prior to changing radiator ?

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if the car is making mayo, then more than likely the h/g, are the hoses being pressured very quickly from cold?


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yea it overheated before i put the rad in.
i was just hoping it was that.
how much does it cost on average to do a h/g and do i have to skim the head??
cheers

Spanks

Jim

xx

GoOnJustTouchIt

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You can get a litle bit of white gunge on the oil cap due to condensation. If it overheats within a mile is it that all the water has gone? If it is and your problem is the head gasket you must have clouds of steam coming out of the exhaust.

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My oil light flashes a bit now too.
i only get a bit of white smoke when is cold out.
theres no oil in the the header and theres no blue smoke, so im hoping its not the h/g.
how hard is the water pump to change? though saying that i have got a steady flow of water. sometimes theres little bits of what looks like copper in the header tank?!
cheers
Jim

Spanks

Jim

xx

GoOnJustTouchIt

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does your water level drop at all?

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nope. its been the same level since i fitted the new rad.

Spanks

Jim

xx

GoOnJustTouchIt

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if the oils not shifted then id be pretty certain to rule out the headgasket…

do all the pipes get hot? possibly the thermostat not opening? or air lock… if you didnt do as posted earlier the 'run with the exp cap off until hot'

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Illy1983 said

if the oils not shifted then id be pretty certain to rule out the headgasket…

do all the pipes get hot? possibly the thermostat not opening? or air lock… if you didnt do as posted earlier the 'run with the exp cap off until hot'

Yeah, I mentioned this earlier.Fundamental really. Better off loosening the top rad hose until water starts coming out.

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As has been said its probably an air lock or a faulty thermostat, feel the pipe from the bottom of the rad to the water pump, if its only luke warm when the engine is hot its one or the other. Did you turn the heater on full when you filled it?

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Make sure you get a Haynes manual. It will lead you through step by step of how to do relatively common jobs on your car.

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right, i ran it without the coolant cap on, and before the fan started water bellowed out of the reservoir.
then when i turned the engine off the fan came on briefly.
does that sound like the thermostat?
i dunno.

Spanks

Jim

xx

GoOnJustTouchIt

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Yes it could be bacause the stat for the fan is in the rad and if your thermostat isn't opening the water won't circulate through the rad to activate the fan. Also the water in the engine will boil and that will cause the water to come out of the expansion tank, I think. Was that pipe that runs from the bottom of the rad to the water pump hot?
I can't understand why the fan should come on when you turned the engine off but there could be some sort of backfeed to the rad when the pump stops
You can test the thermostat by taking it out and putting it in a saucepan of water and heating it up slowly, it should start to open before the water boils.
Good luck.

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it will overboil before the rad fan comes on if you have the tank cap off, the coolant will boil before the switch can cut in. you're only supposed to run it with the cap off to bleed it, and switch the engine off before it boils.

here is my coolant FAQ posted from another forum:
If you have an issue with the coolant system, the 1st thing to change is the header tank cap (MK1/2/3 Golf/Polo/Passat etc). The older black caps have a problem with the pressure valve in the cap which can vent to late/early, so its always a good idea to upgrade to a new blue one.

The system takes just over 5 litrs when empty, there will always be some coolant left in the block unless you remove the thermostat though
Use G12+ coolant from VW, or G12 from AVS Car Parts - [The VW - Audi - Seat - Skoda Parts Specialist]
Use at least 40% coolant, I normally use a 50:50 mix in my GTI 8v and it runs nice & cool

Bleeding the system after refilling:
Run the engine from cold with the cap off and rev it to 2k now and again.  While you are doing this squeeze all the pipes you can get your hands on, and keep the coolant level topped up.  It will eventually start to boil over, at this point turn the engine off.  Once its settled down top it up to the max mark and you should be good to go!

Checking the operation of the system:
Check the lower rad pipe is stone cold until the temp gauge reaches the half way point, if it gets lukewarm straight away then the thermostat is stuck open or missing, if it stays cold then it is stuck shut.
Check the fan kicks in when the gauge gets near 3/4, if not disconnect the plug from the radiator sender in the bottom, passenger side of the rad & bridge the pins.  If the fan spins then the temp sender is broken, if not jump the fan direct from the battery, if it still dont spin then the fan is knackered

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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well, im back.
i fitted a new thermostat today, the one that i fitted had a much harder spring.
both of them had 87 deg temp on them.
then when i ran the car it went up to just below 3/4 on the gauge pretty quick. the old one ran around half way all the time.
where on the temp gauge does everyone elses run at in traffic??
and where on the gauge is it before the fan kicks in??
thanks

Spanks

Jim

xx

GoOnJustTouchIt

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all my cars run at half way, thats where they should run. it may be the temp sensor isnt reading correctly, or you have used the wrong one for the engine? they should be black, either 2 pin push fit or 1 pin threaded fitting.

have you checked the stat operates as per the guide i posted?

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

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