Oil Light and annoying warning Buzzer

Hi All,

Took my golf out of the garage the other day with the intention of using it as my daily while i fit a webber carb to my Civic later in the week. Anyway used it this morning for an hour and then popped out to get some bread just now and on the way to the shop the oil light flicked on and went out then came on and stayed on accompanied by a really cheezy buzzer. I was right next to the garage so i stopped and check the oil level, it was half way up the dip stick so i filled it up and the buzzer and light is still on.

As it didnt matter if the engine was running or not the buzzer was still on i risked it and drove the 2 miles home. I have had a play with the oil sensor wires but its still not solved it.

Does anyone know which of the two wires is responsible for the main oil light? is it the one directly over the oil filter?

Am i right in thinking that because the light and buzzer come on when the engine is not running that the fault lies with the oil sensor not low oil pressure?????.. The car has only done 69k miles.

found a huge amount of info using the search feature…  ops: printing it off and will try that.

ok followed the test proceedure and disconnected the wires (already tried doing it anyway) but it makes no difference, the oil light is always flashing and the buzzer comes on after maybe 2 seconds. This is without the engine running.

I dont see how it can be the high pressure sensor as its still buzzing even with the sensor connected or disconnected and grounded out.

Anyone got any ideas for me???

The instruments mfa etc have always worked flawlessly.

oh yeah one more thing, after i topped the oil up the oil light stopped flickering on dimly and came on brightly. So i thought maybe i over filled the engine so i have dropped some oil out and its back to half way on the dip stick.

A

Disconnect the blue/black wire from the white, high pressure switch on the oil filter flange and rev the engine over 2000 rpm. After approximately a two second delay the light and warning beeper should come on and remain on no matter what rpm the engine is running until the blue/black wire is grounded.

[If it doesn't go off when grounded the wire or connectors are faulty between the sender and clocks] .

Turn off engine . Now

Re-connect to the 'new' [you did say you have replaced the sender] pressure sender start engine it should go off and work normally .


If that does not work , and remember the buzzer it to warn you of low oil pressure you need to have the engine oil pressure checked with a mechanical guage  .


 

Hi Chudd,

It is not really possible to do these tests as the buzzer comes on as soon as you turn the key (engine not running) and does not go out no matter what you connect or disconnect. I have tried wires to the battery earth to ground the circuits etc as well as try the tests listed in the various posts.

But I have not changed the sender yet, a new one is on its way to me.

To me this points towards a fail in the circuit somewhere. But where!?

Now mate , this below is copied from an old post of mine [bear with me] . If after doing all the tests , it could be faulty clock related ? prowler [user name] posted some pictures of the buzzer location on the clocks .  Read on ……..

Few pointers for you , oil wires are yellow for low pressure and blue black high pressure . The high one is mounted on the filter head low on cylinder head . I fitted guages to my 20VT conversion so did not want the oil light or any MFA function etc on the dash except the digital clock , so did not connect the oil wires to the clocks and guess what buzzer and flashing oil light over 2000 rpm . Driving me mad .

This leads me to think that if the clocks are not getting the right signal they will buzz . So fitted the oil wires to the clocks and earthed the buggers under the dash , problem solved Cheesy Grin You could of course remove the buzzer and lamp if you wanted , but thats more work and may affect clock functions ?

So if you are happy to have 'NO' clock oil light simply earth both wires near the clocks and use separate guages . If you need MFA oil temp ? That should be fine as its the green black wire and not connected to the buzzer .

sounds like a dodgy clock or a break in one or both of the wires hence showing both switches as open all the time.

If there is a break in the wires.. that is probably why grounding them out did nothing.

Amit

I took the clocks out.. looked at the back and thought.. bugger that… and put it back together this morning. I dont want to break something and make it worse the car is my pride and joy and it broke my heart seeing the dash all apart.

So i have booked it in with a engineer i trust.

Ill also buy a L shaped PCB and all the sensors for him to fit if necessary.

How did you get on? I've had exactly the same problem as you ( ie buzzing/light even when engine not running ) for ages. Baffles me completely…..and drives me wiiillllddddd

I just got the L shaped board the other day on ebay so waiting for it to turn up. Think it was ?2.50 post posting.

From what i have read about it its quite common on mk2s. This L shaped board replacement is supposed to be the cure for them.

I have my courage back up so i think im going to do the work myself not give it to a garage. Well im going to strip the clocks but i may get my mate to solder to the board for me as he is a wiz with PCBs.

When i get it fitted ill drop you a line and let you know the score. Also take some pics of the job and post them up.

Great. Good luck !  :wink:

There's no soldering to do, the long winded bit is getting the clocks out, once you have those on the kitchen table its easy.

double entry

OK had a few days off this week so spent a bit of time today playing with the golf.

Two new sensors arrived today, figured id replace them before p1ss1ng round with the clocks. NO joy… so out came the clocks and onto the work bench.

They came apart ok, but managed to snap the trip reset pushy thing.. w NK .. it will glue on again no worries though.

With the speedo face loose you can turn the face and remove the single screw that holds the L shaped PCB in place and loosen the plastic clips and it pulls out… the new one from ebay slotted in and i reassembled.

Back in the car and all working perfectly again….thank god!

All the clocks are now back in and ive been out for a play and im well chuffed.

So now to address the occasional high (1200rpm) tickover when warm and also replace the sticking thermostat that i suspect is causing it to run a bit warm.

Ive been having the same problem mate. Replaced both my sensors and buzzer is still sounding when i get to 2000 - 2500 revs.

Im going to be replacing my "L" board behind the speedo soon in the hope that it will cure my problem. Do you have any pictures or tips that will help me when i get round to getting the dash out

Hi,

I am sorry i got so focused in getting the clocks out and back i didnt take any pics. But…

unclip all the switch facias to reveal the screws, remove the radio, undo all the screws, if the dash wont come out its cause you have missed a screw. Once the dash is free undo all the switches.

with the dash outta the way you can get to the two screws that hold the clocks in.

you will have to get your hand round the back of the clocks to pull off the vacum pipe and speedo.

Then pull the clocks out some of the way and undo the two wire blocks. then wiggle the clocks out.. either through the steering wheel or out the side.

Undo all the nuts/screw on the back of the clocks and carefully lift the back, i never totally separated mine just folded the back over to reveal the clock faces.. be careful of the trip plastic reset thingy.

With the speedo face loose you can turn the face and remove the single screw that holds the L shaped PCB in place and loosen the plastic clips and it pulls out… the new one from ebay slotted in and i reassembled.

Its actually not all that hard just bloody fiddly at times. took me about an hour from start to finish. Just dont get scared when you look at the dash with the clocks removed. it does look a bit shocking lol

ps.. it does sound like you High pressure sensor is at fault.. i have read various threads where people replaced the sensor and the new one was faulty.

For your info…might be useful….





Oil Buzzer circuit - early

Oil Buzzer circuit - late

my sons golf has this flippen buzzer, last night lay under the dash with the buzzer sounding i pull at the speedo cable then buzzing goes away ,

what can this be??

sounds liek loose contacts in the clocks

how the hek to correct this??