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late kjet warm running problems

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starts ok but have to give the throttle a blip runs fine when cold but as soon as its warmed up its as lumpy as hell please help regards Jeremy

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May be bit more info would help with your problem,
When was it last serviced, plugs, HT leads, dissy, rotor arm, fuel and air filter etc…..
How's the timing and fuel mixture, or have you had the car tuned up yet?
How many miles has the car done?
Condition of fuel filler neck?
Have you changed or tried any thing yet and how long have you had this problem?

The more info we have the easier it is to guess the problem with out seeing the car. :thumbs:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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………upon reflection my post was a little vague, it's a '91 caddy sport bought as a non runner been stood for around 18 months, drained the tank, gone through all the service items including new fuel pump and filter.  I bought a brand new Bosch dizzy off good ol' Ebay advertised as mk1 golf gti wouln't even start with it installed. Changed the WUR new ignition module. I had the injectors checked, all good, been to 3 diagnostic centres that claimed to being old skool runs lovely on tick over does not hunt or drop revs. Wont start without a blip of the throttle when cold, drives perfectly from cold but is very lumpy and lacks power once warm but will start on the button……… regards Jeremy …………shes covered 95k

Last edit: by neverbeen

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Have you checked spark plug colour?
Sounds like it's not set up right for timing and mixture and is running too lean
Don't forget to block off the advance when setting up timing

lhasa green 83 gti tintop MOT passed Aug '14 after nearly 12 years!
Audi A6 3.0 tdi Avant Quattro Le Mans 305bhp 

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You should not need to touch the throttle on start up from cold or hot.
The car will run best on super unleaded petrol and that is the fuel you should use when setting up the timing, they will run on normal unleaded but I could never get mine to tick over smoothly and it was down on power and I seem to use more petrol so super unleaded all the way for me.
Also check the static timing marks as it's very easy for the cam shaft cog to be a tooth out on the cam belt, the car will start and run but will lack power so check the timing marks before adjusting the dissy and mark the postion it is now then if it all goes tits up you can move the dissy back to where it was before you started.
 

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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cheers for advise will get on it over the christmas break........ regards jeremy

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also check all the basic kjet stuff over as per this thread:
http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=25972

ignore 16v specific bits obv, and for yours ignition timign is set to 6 degree BTDC with the vac line to the dizzy disconnected and plugged. the big diamond on your flywheel is set to 6 deg for you so no need for a fancy timing light either :)

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Thanks to all that have replied, I have been through the whole k-jet tune up advice (Thanks rubjonny) the caddy tunes up beautifully and starts on the button, but still runs like a bag of spanners after about 2 miles on cold start. It feels like fuel starvation but this disappears if you rev to 5000 rpm? I live in Dorset, are there any k-jet specialists I am willing to travel.
Cheers, Jeremy.

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does unplugging the wur or isv help?

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

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Thanks again for your reply. I removed the connector for the WUR and drove 20 miles with no issues apart from it now idles between 1100 - 1200 RPM. Does this just mean I was unlucky with a replacement WUR and will a new one cure my problem? I have had a quote of £130 + VAT from KMI for a referb of my bosch WUR - 0 438 140 011
Cheers, Jeremy

Last edit: by neverbeen

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Have you tested the wiring to the WUR? Worth checking before you pay out £130

lhasa green 83 gti tintop MOT passed Aug '14 after nearly 12 years!
Audi A6 3.0 tdi Avant Quattro Le Mans 305bhp 

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only way to test a wur is with a set of fuel pressure gauges, ideally you want to take it to a kjet specialist as without a pressure check its a guessing game!

unplugging it just means its slower to come up to temperature but it will eventually get as warm is it was before. If when the car is fully up to temperature it drives fine this would suggest the final control pressure on it is fine, but something is throwing out the warm up curve. The AAV may be worth a look, check it gets 12v when the engine is running. if not it will be slower to respond as it will only warm up from heat from the engine bay rather than from the internal heater

i take it unplugging the 5th injector makes no difference?

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Did you ever solve this issue, and if so what did you replace?
This symptom has re-appeared (suspect it's the same caddy sport I bought from Jeremey in Dorset?)

Thanks in advance, Guy

R32GUY

1992 Rivage in Classic Blue Pearl "B16YUG" 2.0 TFSI, 6 Speed FWD with Quaife LSD, running on Air with sorted geometry and Eibach ARB's, G60 brake setup front and rear, 4x100 17" BBS LM's, Power Steering, Opening Quarter-lights, Mk2 electric recaros and the whole car trimmed by MJ Interiors in tan and Alcantara with a brown roof.


 

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Disconnecting the WUR makes the car run less lumpy, so i've sourced a replacement.

What's the long term issue with running with the WUR disconnected?

R32GUY

1992 Rivage in Classic Blue Pearl "B16YUG" 2.0 TFSI, 6 Speed FWD with Quaife LSD, running on Air with sorted geometry and Eibach ARB's, G60 brake setup front and rear, 4x100 17" BBS LM's, Power Steering, Opening Quarter-lights, Mk2 electric recaros and the whole car trimmed by MJ Interiors in tan and Alcantara with a brown roof.


 

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the plug is for a heater inside which helps to warm up the WUR a bit quicker. without it it'll just be warmed up by the engine itself, no real issue if the car runs well while its warming up.

might be the heater is bad and drawing too much current, since its fed of the same feed as the fuel pump might be affecting it

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Thanks, makes sense - I'll fit the replacement, in the meantime runs fine disconnected.

R32GUY

1992 Rivage in Classic Blue Pearl "B16YUG" 2.0 TFSI, 6 Speed FWD with Quaife LSD, running on Air with sorted geometry and Eibach ARB's, G60 brake setup front and rear, 4x100 17" BBS LM's, Power Steering, Opening Quarter-lights, Mk2 electric recaros and the whole car trimmed by MJ Interiors in tan and Alcantara with a brown roof.


 
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