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Just bought A-reg 1800 GTI - engine jitters....!?

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Just bought A-reg 1800 GTI - engine jitters....!?

Hi All

I'm a new owner and have plenty to ask but everything has been overwhelmed by a big problem i have. The car was just on the low fuel marker when i bought it - so i filled it up the other day and since then the running has got gradually worse - like there is either contamination in the fuel, or the engine just can't run…

It's not like misfiring which is quite gentle in my experience - it's more like, up to about 1500revs it just manages to hold it but after that the car jerks and lurches hard. Occassionally it just disappears and the car is like normal again - pulling hard but mostly, and only since filling up i can bearly bring myself to drive it…

I was thinking that, because the fuel filler neck is all rusted i might have picked up a load of rust from that and it's now choking the engine or the fuel filter or something….

Just wondering if i can get any clues - i can't afford to get it into a garage for at least 2 weeks…..

Thanks!

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Have a search, thare are loads and loads and loads of threads on bad running due to rusted fuel fillers.

Instead of pratting around with magnets, remove the round cover under rear seat and level sender and look inside tank with a torch. This is slightly easier when the tank is low/empty.

Then you will be able to see either a nice clean inside or water, rust and muck thats is the root of your problem.

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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Nice one - i'll take a look shortly.

I've seen online i can get a new tank for ?73, a new filler for ?33 and if need be a new pump for ?17 - so i may get those three (the pump is constantly buzzing very loudly…)

The only thing i think i'll have trouble changing is the tank as i've read you need to remove the rear axle and i just don't have the kind of ramp to do that…

Is there a good online photo guide with changing the filler neck?

Ta!

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and remove the exhaust and prob the brake pipes which will be rusted solid and then need replacing. Its actually not too bad a job if you have an assistant. You can get enough room jacking the car up and using a sturdy plank under the chassis in front of the rear wheels suitably covered with some old cushions etc. Make sure the 4 axles studs are clean and rust free.

Best bet is look inside the tank 1st and make sure that is your problem.

Don't think the ?17 pump is for an injection system it will be for a carb :dontknow:

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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tank removal

hi you dont have to drop the rear beam atal iv just done mine and all i done was unbolted the rear beam from the chassis and then disconnected the brake compensater spring on the near side(passanger side) and let it hang.once you have done that drain all fuel outa the tank into a clean jug.then you can disconnect all the pipes to the tank.the tank will then cum out between the chassis and the rear hanging beam.its quite easy that way if your on your own.good luck mate

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update

Okay, well after fixing the flat tyre and putting ?10 worth of fuel in it, the car is back to how it was….at least i can try and nervously drive it a bit now and get used to her…

Could it be….because i filled her up to the top that the filler neck was up to the top with fuel and that picked up all the rust and flakes that had sat there for months and took it all into the engine? Thats the only think i can think of. the fuel tank was pretty clean inside.

Anyway, new fuel neck now - had to be done….
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