just a quicky...

is there supposed to be a low tension lead coming off the dizzy base or is that part of the hall sender??

just i'm still having running issues when warm and my dad believes there should be one there, but i say its all in the hall sender back to the ign amp

still cuts out when you put your foot on the pedal once warm, but as soon as you start her back up she's fine again… well, for 5 minutes of so

have noticed my new pump makes a gargling sound around the time she starts playing up (sounds like its sucking in/passing air through but i've got a 1/4 of a tank of fuel)

please dont be the pump!!!

Dizzy has one low tension connection, which is the hall sender - 3 wires all in the same plug.

Have you tried running the car without the petrol cap on?
Could it be the vent blocked from the fuel tank and a vacuum being created in the tank?
After running for a while the vacuum builds up to such a stage that the fuel pump really struggles to cope…..after being switched off for 5 mins the vacuum has subsided enough to be able to restart again?
If you remove the cap after the car has conked out and there is a sudden inrush of air it could point towards this.

cheers Paul, thats what i've been telling my dad ever since i've been searching for clues to this problem

M, just so happens that i put petrol in and forgot to put the cap on this afternoon and ran it… same problem!

if your really, REALLY gentle with the throttle it'll slowly rev up but as soon as you put your foot down literally an inch she dies… as if the ignitions been switched off or the king lead removed

starts with a stutter when you rev, slowly work into a miss through the revs and steadily gets worse until the point of any form of throttle kills it unless you touch it with a feather, idles fine throughout but if you turn her off then start her up straight after she's fine again for a while?! revs full and freely

its just not fun anymore, think i may have to swap out the pump and see how that goes unless a fresh head can come up with something i havent tried

just changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm since there was some serious scorching and wear on the arm and…

within 15 minutes of running (just enough for it to start its little moment) i took the cap off and checked the rotor arm… and its scorched?!

why pray tell?! it looks as if it may even have started to pit a little but its definatly blackened and i know at most it should go a little pasty over a couple of thou miles but not black! so i'm sure whatever is cause this is the cause of my splutter-cough-death on acceleration

anyone have any ideas on what would cause the scorching on the rotar arm? i have new leads and sparky's as well as the rotor arm and cap), the only thing i havent tried is the coil…

is the rotor pushed on correctly? correct coil, cap, rotor?

yep, yep n yep

cleaned up the shaft surface that the rotor contact rests on, new rotor arm well secured, all ht's are new, lt's are clean and have good connection (checked in ohms), spark plugs are new, engines well earthed (again checked with volt meter) but still the scorching… bought a ?20 coil from craphco and ran it for a few minutes, not much scorching but still the same missing problem… oh woe is me  

whats puzzleing me is that when it does its miss-firing under throttle thing is its fine from start, warm or cold its on the button everytime but, after 5-10 minutes it starts with a slight stutter which over 5-10minutes more slowly turns into misses, pops n splutters and gets worse and worse until just a touch of throttle kills the engine, start it straight back up n its fine again for another couple of minutes?! then it steadily creeps back in

someone from back in the yester-year golf days mentioned the fuel relay getting to hot and having a safety cut off?? may be the cause of the funny noises coming from the pump, but wouldnt it just cut the pump off or fail completely?

got a weekend of trying to sort this, this… this…… thisISSUE (bless me)out so some ideas or areas to try n test would be cool. but i can pretty much rule out the ignition/electrical side of things (i think! but i still think its a miss fire than a splutter fuel noise but i had the same feeling when i had a blocked carb on my MG :roll: ) lol  phillmk1 is gonna lend me his pressure tester to see if the pump noises relates to poor pressure, but… we shall see!

different subject but… wooders, did she go..??  

no. she's staying. got a job tomorrow clearing the garage so she can sit next to the donor car.

try this at night and lower the bonnet to see if there is any arc dancing going on. bangs tend to be electrical misfiring issues, sort of hollow popping tends to be lean on the fuel (which would indicate low pressure to me). out of curiousity unplug the 5th injector after she starts and see if anything happens. i had one stuck open once though an arcing ht lead and low fuel pressure were compounding my issue then.

glad to hear your keeping it mate, would have been a shame to see her go for that much! me and phillmk1 were sat speechless for about an hour when i saw the final figure lol keeping the girl standard or you going for that tweak you mentioned with the low comp?

i tried the 5th injector from cold but i'll give it another go in thge morning, i'll give phill a nudge tomorrow also to get that pressure tester and see how that goes

tried the arching ht lead thing, i've got the metal shield around the spark plug type ht's (think they're mk2?) and the shield was touching the head which i've sorted but i havent checked in the dark for an arch (but i'm busting out rhymes, emineminem lol)

might even swap out the thermo switch as well and see how that goes failing the pressure test

hi dude,

I had a similar problem not long back ( not with scortching dizzy but with buzzing fuel pump,missing and cutting out) - turned out to be a hard lump of crud bobbing about at the end of the pickup pipe in the tank - it would start up ok, but would be slowly starved of fuel until it cut out.  Leave it a bit and enough fuel would dribble through to let it run again for a bit - i have a inline filter before the pump so I could see the fuel level dropping and dropping. - mite be worth a look?

i'll have a gander when i get it on axle stands and see what might be lurking in the pick up pipe, only thing is we cleaned out the tank and pipe when i did the rear axle mount 2 months back but it'll be worth a look as i'm at whits end

bought myself a timing light today and found that the timing was 25 degrees advanced (ouch i know, n she's a 1.6 to!!) but now runs smoother with less hunting… but the problems still there! DAMMIT!!

might have to richen the mixture up again and she smells a little lean, gave it half a click back the other weekend… so will give it 1/4 back in the right direction in a mo'

but for now, pick up pipe!!

timing! ???
 well that should be the reason for the scortching. try the fuel mixture now and see if it makes any difference.

yep, timing was a mile out and she seemed sweet a proper eager to go on the revs so once this problems sorted i'll play around a little when i get my hands on a CO gas tester… i'm suprised she ran at all, that would make it so it was firing half way up its compression stroke no?

as for the mixture, i'm gonna try that out again tomorrow, but right now… i've just done a pressure test and with the engine running its at 45psi (3bar) and when the car starts its little splutter the fuel pressure still sits at 45psi..? no drop whatsoever which is good!    

i know the system pressure should be between 55-65psi but if the pressures at 45 when its runnin fine (for however long it wants) and is still at 45 when its starts faffin about…? i know the system is pressure sensitive n all but eh :dontknow:

i've got another WUR on a spare engine that i'm going to try out tomorrow (would do this evening but she's holding nicely to system pressure so i dont want to get soaked in fuelage)

i take it that anything system pressure related is down to the WUR since its the only pressure regulator in the fuel system..?

but right now, i'm going to retrieve the spare WUR so i look forward to some opinions when i get back lol!

System pressure or control pressure?

System pressure should be constant, no matter what the engine temp is. If this dips (then returns) its a sure fire indication of a fuel blockage.

Control pressure varies with temperature - starts low and goes higher as the car warms up. If this doesn't have the right relationship between temp and pressure, then it causes issues thru warmup and possibly also once warm (although if its within specs, then normally using the mixture screw can bring the car into proper mixture range).

If control pressure is fine, you've adjusted mixture and still there's issues, then suspect a blockage which causes the flap to stick or fuel not to flow properly through the metering head - which normally means replacing it.

Also, worth checking the centring and at-rest height of the flap. I remember your sticky flap from GTI Spring Festival!

me? sticky flap..? nah, wasnt at spring fest! last fest i did was when inters was at TRL and thats going back to my old lhasa years ago

my flaps fine, i centrered the flap and checked the rest height before putting it in the car (the original was removed since the feed from the tank was full of rubbish from the tank). have replaced everything with 'working' parts along the feed so i can pretty rule out that reute

pressure taken from the wur to the metering unit which did climb from 2.5bar up to 4 bar when warm. under instruction, i leaned the mixture off about 2/3's of a turn before i realised my timing was way off so i'm gonna play around with that tomorrow and bring it slowly back to where it was (or until my eye's burn, whichever comes first)

changed the wur and thats not effecting the control pressure from the previous post so that can now be ruled out for sure

right, done the injector test, they're functioning but the spray aint to pretty, while i had the switch across the relay terminals i ran the car to check if it may have been the relay being faulty but still the same issue

really not liking the sound of the pump, only 3 months old and sounds like a bag of doggy do, would anyone happen to know if the B5 passat 20VT ran using the same type of pump? just that i have just that car sitting in my garage waiting for me to strip

so, i've managed to isolate the issue (i think) to, not so pretty but functional injectors, fuel pump or metering head

the didgy sound coming from the pump may be strain from a blockage causing starvation but i know the tank is clean. i'm gonna get the back seat out and have a gander at the corner where the pick up is to see if there's any rubbish lurking there

oh, forgot to mention that now i have the timing right (as its the only thing i've done this weekend really) and now the spluttering and coughing is from the get go n now she's even stalling at idle… yesterday i had the idle spot on at 850rpm and now its sitting at 350-400 and i havent touched anything?!

I mixed you up with someone else. Oh well.