Is my oil cooler radiator working?

I've noticed that the rubber pipes that go to the oil cooler are cold, is it faulty, also what does that small radiator do?

The small radiator is the oil cooler, no?

Not sure if it has a built in thermostat which may explain cold pipes?

Peter.

The Oil housing has a stat in it, that stops the oil to the cooler untill ti is warm enough to require cooling. I think the stat is around 85 deg C when it opens the iol way to the cooler. The pipes shoudl be cold to start but after a drive and the car is up to temperature you should find the pipes become warmer.

I've no idea myself but recall someone stating before that the oil cooler doesn't kick in until quite a high temp (sure it was a bit over 100 degrees C?)

The oil stat kicks in at 110 degrees.  I took the housing apart to have a look at it as I thought it wasn't working properly.

From what I could see, the stat will always bypass a small amout of oil until  or if the temp reaches 110, then it opens fully. Hence the reason for the pipes being cold.

New stats are available from VW too at around 43 quid + vat.

So lets get this right, the stat kicks in once the oil temp hits 110 degrees + and then sends the hot oil to the small radiator (next to the big radiator) which cools the oil down, right?

If thats the case if I fit a stat that kicks in at a lower temp my engine will run cooler?

I?m sure someone said there is a Porsche stat that opens at a more reasonable 80c-ish??? But my MFA only ever goes up to about 80/90ish most of the time anyway?

Just wondered if that Porshe stat is available at GSF?

My engine performs better when cold than hot. When my engine temp. reaches in excess of 100 degrees the engine will give a tingling sound on acceleration.

Cheers

I wouldn't recommend fitting a lower temp stat because the oil temp should be atleast 80 degrees to work properly. Using a lower rated stat will only keep the temp barely at 80.

my oil temp is always between say 83 and 93 normally, rising to around 100 when giving it some!

The tingling noise you can hear lhasa  could be pinking under acceleration, mine does it , especially on hot days.

What you could do though is fit a mk2 set up aswell, so you can have the oil warm up quicker using the matrix on the filter and should help temp the temp low too.

lahsa - if you are getting tinkling when hot on hard acceleration try retarding the ignition a smidge - say half a degree and see if it goes.

I wouldn't recommend fitting a lower temp stat because the oil temp should be atleast 80 degrees to work properly. Using a lower rated stat will only keep the temp barely at 80.

Wonder if mine has wrong stat fitted? On average doesn't get much above 85-86C unless very hot weather - only occasionally passes 100C. Today driving round town didn't get above 83C. I checked oil cooler pipes when I got home - they were warm?

Whats pinking?

Is the tingling noise from the tappets hitting the piston? couldn't figure it out myself.

Crazy - tried that and got a big drop in performance, so I put it back to where it was.

Whats pinking?

Is the tingling noise from the tappets hitting the piston? couldn't figure it out myself.

Crazy - tried that and got a big drop in performance, so I put it back to where it was.

It's a bit difficult to describe really.  It is when the the fuel/air mixture is detonated before the piston reaches TDC.  This can be caused by incorrect timing and also by not using the correct octane rating fuel for which the timing is set at.

My Mk1 pinks very slightly under light ish acceleration for a moment, but if I either ease off or acellerate harder the pinking disappears. It also does it on hot days too. I think mine does it because I have got a 16V warm up reg mod done.

This is where a K star or a V Sam comes in as the ign timing can be mapped for fuelling etc.

Anyone else elaborate on this…