Hi and...

…We're new to you boys & girls but not new to Golfs in various formats from early MK1s to III's. We are currently running around in a 16V mk2 and a Cabrio MK1 GTI, and thats where the problems start.

My mizziz's cabrio was written off last November and we found a replacement in Leeds, a 91 plate red GTI with a distintive red and black leather interior with VW logo emroided in the seats Maybe you know the car??

When we picked it up(via fleabay) it had the ususal rusty fuel filler neck(even though I asked him to check it!) and a gearbox with no oil(which turned into a 4 speed on the way home as the 5th gear overheated and fell apart). We picked the car up at a reasonable price and expected a few problems so it wasn't a real downer.

We ordered a fuel filler neck but none have turned up according to my dealer for a fair while he said it may even be NLA. Last week the car died, the fuel pump was squeelin'like a pig and the conclusion that the rust had attacked the pump. Had it RACed home located a good SH neck, drained and cleaned the tank. Fired up ran reasonably well but started kangerooing and the pump got very noisy. Replaced the pumps (lifter was dead) and started again. Pumps now ok but car isn't running right.

Replaced fuel filter, removed metering head and stripped and cleaned reassembled and fired it up. It's starting isn't what it should be, it takes a few cranks and sounds like a car with too much choke on but there isn't black smoke. When I removed the metering head there didn't seem to be any pressure there car had been run 5 min before so I'm wondering igf the injectors are playing up/dead.

There didn't seem to be any crap in around the metering head and to be truethful it hasn't run as cleanly as her old one, the starting has always taken a bit of cranking from cold and you can just detect what feels like a odd "misfire". Dizzy cap & rotor replaced when first brought which did improve things but any good pointers to the starting/missing feeling?

cheers

MizzTaH

Try prowlers injector test first to see how the fuel delivery is.

Have you checked the filter by the lift pump in the tank? This may be blocked up too.

Best bet is to get the tank cleaned out properly now that you have replaced the old filler neck. Then get the fuel lines blown out for good measure, replace both fuel filters and check the inlet to the pump. Some pumps have a small gauze filter just before the inlet to prevent rust getting to the pump.

Starting could be cold start valve on side of inlet manifold not firing. Thermotime switch could beat fault if it isn't. Faulty warm up regulator a possibility too.

Perhaps the mixture was knocked out when you stripped the metering head?

Have you checked the timing? could be set wrong mine ran lake a bag of poo until I checked it?

Also I would check for blocked injectors?

valve timing is ok, spent many years stripping and rebuilding engines to "feel" the valve timing is right. The lifter pump that was in the tank lacked a filter so that was it's demise with  the crap in the tank.

Car running miles better than it did - stripping the metering head and "pushing" crap out the lines by turning it over/ let it run out has helped. I carefully measured the height of the metering head plunger with digital vernier and reassembled to the same height. It was 5.4mm I compared it to the spare metering head at 5.6mm so it aint far out.

Changed the WUR yesterday, still a lot of cranking to start it up and it has a uneven tickover. It aslo feels like it's slightly to cock below 2K but my mizziz doesn't notice. Mind you she drives the Cab with her foot glued to the floor it is a GTI and that's what they're for as she often reminds me! The injectors seem likely. doesn't look like much room to play getting them in and ou but I'll use Prowlers' guide to have a look(I wonder if he enjoyed the video we sent him  8O !)

I've been trying to clear up which injectors to use—I think the correct Bosch ones are part 0 437 502 045 but if you look through various forums on the net and on ebay these often spring up 0 437 502 023 which are the Merc ones but advertised as fitting the 16V KR units.

Does anyone know or have they tried them in the 8V Dx/EV lumps? if so did they run ok??

This may be useful for Bosch part numbers when trying to order stuff. I find thelocal stockist isn't exactly mr charm or bothered down here

http://apps.bosch.com.au/products/saa/efi_techserviceparts.pdf

have a good weekend and don't forget Mothers Day   damn I forgot already!!

MizzTah

mizztaH said

The injectors seem likely. doesn't look like much room to play getting them in and ou but I'll use Prowlers' guide to have a look(I wonder if he enjoyed the video we sent him  8O !)

…ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT, many thanks Lee. I am doing something special with it for on here……just keep it quiet for a while please.

By the way Carl has only got a Black Cabby in at the mo, and your old one did not go through his place, so it must have been the other breakers that I don't like and never use.

There is a bit of a knack to getting the injectors in and out, spray a bit of WD40 around the seals and give them a twist before pulling them. Use new seals (from VAG or GSF) and a bit of high melting point grease on the new seals.

mizztaH said

I've been trying to clear up which injectors to use—I think the correct Bosch ones are part 0 437 502 045 but if you look through various forums on the net and on ebay these often spring up 0 437 502 023 which are the Merc ones but advertised as fitting the 16V KR units.

MizzTah

I'm using the Merc brass ones, these, and I fitted my old 'top hats' to them - (careful, two types of thread for fitting to the injector pipes - these are the later courser thread see item 9 below)

Cheers Prowler, now I know you're putting the vid to good use I'll refund you with a drink when I catch up with you .

The car's a late one so I think it's going to be the coarse threads. I'll order a set up and see where it goes.

Having had a chance to have a look at the car in a bit more detail since we brought it there is evidence of some rewiring going on. The main fuel pump is contineously running when the ign is turned on, I thought it stopped once the pressure was re-established? My valver does that but I can't remember about any of our other Mk1s.

Onthe subject of Mk1s I sold a Mars Red one 18m ago to a yong lad in Wales with a tuned 1600 lump in it. I know he was doing an acre of work to it does he lurk amongst us and if so how did it turn out.

Will try and sort out some pics and sort profile out

In the meantime have fun

MiZztaH

mizztaH said

Cheers Prowler, now I know you're putting the vid to good use

..as I keep saying…ALL CABBY OWNERS - WATCH THIS SPACE

mizztaH said

 I'll refund you with a drink when I catch up with you .

I'm cheap - cup o' tea and I'm anyone's   (teatotal ex-alcoholic)
Will be visiting your way soon, Clipper wheels need a refurb at Lepson's….

mizztaH said

Having had a chance to have a look at the car in a bit more detail since we brought it there is evidence of some rewiring going on. The main fuel pump is contineously running when the ign is turned on, I thought it stopped once the pressure was re-established? My valver does that but I can't remember about any of our other Mk1s.

I use the later Fuel pump relay…(Mk2 ??) which has a automatic cut-out (signal from coil ???) after a couple of seconds…..stops fuel pumping if engine stops in accident.

sounds good, I have  got a box of relays don't know the no by chance ?

Re her old one I had the filler neck of the black one no sign of her old one in there was told it went to a local breakers so it must be sitting elsewhere in kent.

Oh by the way does anyone know what oil is used in the hood pump?

Cheers

MizZtAh