Getting desperate now..... Please HELP!!

Hi,

I inherited my dads MK1 GTI Cabro after he died 2 years ago and i really want to get it on the road so I can enjoy what he did.
Its has been sat for nearly 2 years now and i am completely stumped and fed up of just throwing money at parts.

The problem is once its started the idle is quite rough and once the accelerator is pressed quite hard the engine splutters until it hits about 2500 revs, at which point it sounds fine.
When it was on the road a few years ago, it had no power and from idle to about 2500 revs and sounded like its was missing.

I have changed the following parts -

. Rotor arm
. Dizzy cap
. Leads
. Spark plugs
. Coil (Dad changed)
. Metering unit
. Injector seals
. Air filter
. Fuel filter
. Fuel lift pump in tank

Has anyone got any ideas?
I am thinking the next part to change would be the external fuel pump as when i have taken the spark plugs out they have been covered in carbon so I'm guessing that the injectors are ok. Im thinking that maybe because the the engine is running rich there is just not enough pressure when the accelerator is pressed?

If anyone can help that would be great as i am getting to the end of my patients and money is getting tight to keep throwing at it.

Many thanks,
 

I've no idea but I'm sure someone here will.

Just hang fire, don't buy anything else yet and let the members get their heads round this first!  

whats the filler neck like? could be water in the fuel.

There's probably more questions than answers at this stage.

When you say "hit the accelerator hard" is that when its sat idle or under load when your driving it?

If it were mine I'd be questioning fuel pressure. Sounds like too much rather than too little but if you've changed the metering head then that could rule that out unless its the warm up reg on the front or a blocked / restricted fuel return pipe back to the tank.

Once above 2500 the extra fuel required maybe lowering the pressure sufficiently to "correct" the pressure at the injectors although that depends on the answer to my first question about being under load. Are you certain its running rich? ie. black smoke out the exhaust. Does it pop and bang either in the exhaust or back up through the inlet manifold?

Cheers for the replies.

The filler neck doesn't seem to bad. When i replaced the lift pump, the gauze wasn't that grubby.

If i press the accelerator slowly the revs climb quite freely, however pressing it approximately half way down the engine splutters.
This happens whilst the car is stationary, whilst moving there was no power and sounded like a blowing noise.

I have played about with the mixture as the plugs were covered in black carbon.
I have adjusted the mixture so that the engine revs freely with no spluttering but it won't idle well at all.

if i run the engine and check the plugs they are covered in carbon again. So thats why I'm thinking its running too rich.
If i adjust it the other way the engine won't rev freely.

Any ideas?

What's the fuel like in it? It's hard to judge without hearing it. Can you do a short you tube clip of what it's doing. And post a link. Could be a few things. Blocked fuel filter, timing out, fuel pump, post a link and we will try and diagnose for you.

I presume the fuel is ok. i was putting BP ultimate in it before i took it off the road.
I changed the fuel filter today, with no luck.
I will try and get a clip of it on friday and post it up.

The cam belt was done about a year before i took it off the road so i would assume the timing is ok as the work was undertaken by a garage.

If I've got blocked fuel lines how would i go about rectifying this?

Cheers

It looks like you are troubleshooting by replacing parts without testing to see if they are actually broken.
Kjet is a pressure and flow system - with a pressure gauge and some measuring jars you can check the system out quite thoroughly.
You need to measure:
System pressure, control pressure (cold and hot), pump and injector flow rates over a timed period.
Make sure that the metering disk is centered, and free to move and set at the correct height.
Get yourself a couple of manuals, Haynes and this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Injection-Management-Technical-including-modifying/dp/0837603005
So that you can fully understand the system that you are working on.

Have you put fresh fuel in it? The 2 year old stuff may not be helping. Most recommendations I have had are to use super unleaded (98/99 ron) not regular (95 ron).

Would be worth checking the timing, just in case - mine managed to slip a tooth on the belt after some rough running.

good luck

Lee

I would do the following

Fresh fuel
Timing
Mixture & idle
Check for air leaks

What part of the country are you ? Someone local may able to help

If near to Buckinghamshire I have timing light and gas analyser you are welcome to borrow

Take a read through a Haynes manual and trawl through past threads on here , someone will have had the same problem.  
Might be worth checking the warm up regulator WUR valve

When you press the throttle to half way and it splutters does it pop and bang up through the inlet manifold or is it a rich splutter with black smoke from the exhaust?

You need fresh fuel as a start. Fuel 6 months old is past its best. - my lawn mower will tell you that!

All your doing messing with the mixture screw is masking another issue.

The odd bit is when you say it clears above 2500rpm? if it wasn't for that I'd be saying system fuel pressure

go thru the basic kjet tests in this thread, ignore the 16v specific stuff:
http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=25972

ignition timing is done at idle with the vac line to dizzy disconnected and plugged, use the same BTDC marker as shown in my guide