G60 Ignition setting from scratch

Hi guys,

I have reseated my distributor after cleaning and painting it but have a question about setting it up roughly prior to the engine being started.

The Crank and cam have been timed up perfectly and the tdc mark on the fly wheel is spot on.

I have taken a picture of how the rotor arm is positioned. In the Bentley manual it says about pointing it to cylinder 1. On the distributor cover there is a slit where a mark is located on the  distributor rim. How do I need to align it?

Hi rich, I have just seen this thread and you may have already figured it out but I will explain anyway.

The notch in the distributor body is where the rotor arm needs to be pointing when piston no. 1 is at tdc. So firstly you need to rotate the crank until piston no.1 is at tdc by the mark on the flywheel. Then you will need to take out the distributor clamp and bolt and lift distributor out and turn the oil pump to the correct rotation and drop the distributor back in and see if the rotor arm now faces the notch if not take it out, re-adjust and try again. It's a bit of trial and error until you get it near enough , when it is near you can then turn the distributor slightly before clamping it to get it spot on!

Hope that helps, Jimi

Cheers Jimi that's really useful.

Can I ask you another question. On the small metal coolant pipe that leads to the heater matrix from the water pump there are 2 vertical pipes. The one by the side of the cylinder head goes to the  expansion tank and the one by the oil filter I guess went to the water exchange unit.

 Now this is removed can I cap this off? Lastly the return from the expansion tank, where is this plumbed in?

Cheers

Rich

you need to make sure the rotor arm is lined up when the camshaft is at TDC, as the crank turns twice for every single rotation of the cam and crank

as you say there will have been a feed to the oil cooler, if you have got shot of this then cap off that connection. I found this on AVS website which apparently used to 'blank off one connection':
Meyle 1001210081 Blanking Cap | AVS Car Parts

with the header tank i assume you mean the smaller nipple on the top, this goes to the thin nipple on the top of the radiator. if you dont have oen of these (alloy rad IIRC?) then there is a simple solution, use a 2.0 8v mk3 front flange which includes takeoff for header tank:
Febi 12406 Coolant Flange - OE Ref: 037121132E | AVS Car Parts

John you're a legend. I have the cam dot in line with the rocker cover and flywheel at TDC so assume that's spot on.

Thanks for pointing me to those Items I'll get them ordered up now.

Can you recommend anywhere to get hold of the various vacuum hoses I need for the throttle body and servo? I have the original vacuum line to servo with one way valve. Is this OK to use?

Thanks

Rich

as logn as the servo hose is all hooked up nice with no air leaks you're sorted, for the vac lines either go for ebay silicone stuff or genuine VW if you want an oem braided look hose. I havent found a decent pattern braided type hose the stuff I bought lasted a couple months then cracked up

the problem is VW hose is mega expensive:
n 020 353 27 - vac hose - 8.44+VAT per meter

So the mk1 gti servo lines with valve are OK to use? I'm afraid I don't have the g60 equivalent and I know its obsolete now. Are lengths important on the brake servo? I appreciate that the ECU needs to be 1 metre but I already have genuine vw stuff for that.

Cheers

basically all you need to do is get the servo plumbed in, it makes no odds how you do it or how long the pipes are as long as you have a non-return valve in there and your lines wont collapse under vacuum.

the only important one is as you say the one to the ecu has to be 1 meter, the rest just route neat