Fuel flooding problem...
Posted
#724642
(In Topic #87382)
Newbie
Fuel flooding problem...
When turning on the ignition the fuel pump comes on as normal.
There is a squealing noise from somewhere and the engine floods with petrol, take a spark plug out and its soaked, and petrol is pumped out the cyclinder when turned over.
anyone give us an idea where to start looking for the problem? :dontknow:
EDIT: Engine is a 1.8 8v GTi (CIS injection)
Thanks.
Posted
Local Hero
So thats where you have to look …………Has it been to bits ?
Quite a rare problem as usually all excess fuel would be sent straight back to the tank via the return pipe [also on the metering head] .
Good read here ………..
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Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Newbie
But still have the problem?
the car aws stood for 10 years, but weve had it running recently, but not correctly. Now the car wont start at all because it keeps flooding.
might a blocked return pipe cause the same problem?
Posted
Newbie
paul_c said
It could be a faulty thermo time switch, or leaky 5th injector. Not too difficult to test. Another thing it could be is leaky injectors. Does the car start fine, if its left for a long time (many hours) but not start if left for, say, 10 mins-1 hour?
No the car wont start at all, cylinders just fill with petrol. :dontknow:
Posted
Local Hero
wats8vgticab said
paul_c said
It could be a faulty thermo time switch, or leaky 5th injector. Not too difficult to test. Another thing it could be is leaky injectors. Does the car start fine, if its left for a long time (many hours) but not start if left for, say, 10 mins-1 hour?
No the car wont start at all, cylinders just fill with petrol. :dontknow:
I'd unbolt the 5th injector and visibly check to see it operates properly - fires for 4-10 secs while the starter turns, but not once started (if started). It might be jammed on. If it is, then pull the plug and see if its still jammed on.
If the 5th injector checks out okay, then it could be the air flap not aligned with the centre of the cone, making it stick in an 'up' position. Another thing could be a stiff air flap lever, also making it stick.
Posted
Local Hero
Posted
Old Timer
Injector test pdf
…as above, sounds like a blocked return, or metering head - if you had probs with the control plunger….
Owning a Mk1 cabby is a vertical learning curve…
1989 Mk1 Clipper 1.8 automatic - Sadly now up for sale - medical issues dictate)
1999 (Nov) Passat S Saloon 1.9 TDI (AFN) - TUG 1 (Remap by CCC ( - **** …..change pants !!) with cruise control
2000 (Mar) Passat Sport Estate 1.9 TDI (ATJ) 5 speed automatic with Tiptronic - TUG 2 (Remap and cruise control by CCC)
1989 Mk1 Clipper 1.8 automatic - Sadly now up for sale - medical issues dictate)
1999 (Nov) Passat S Saloon 1.9 TDI (AFN) - TUG 1 (Remap by CCC ( - **** …..change pants !!) with cruise control
2000 (Mar) Passat Sport Estate 1.9 TDI (ATJ) 5 speed automatic with Tiptronic - TUG 2 (Remap and cruise control by CCC)
Posted
Settled In
Some bright spark who owned the car before me couldn't be bothered to replace the fusebox when it rotted, so instead wired the rotted part of the fusebox into another side (non rotted obviously) the rotted part of the fusebox happened to be the fuel pump.
But where he re-wired it (or bodged it) it wasn't intermittantly fueling like it should when the engine was engaged, it started fueling as soon as you turned to ignition key to part 1.
So basically, i'd have about half a second to turn the car over and if it didnt catch first time within that half a sec, it would flood.
Strange but true!
Posted
Newbie
The squealing sounds like it is coming from the injectors when the ignition is turned on, so looks like it could be the metering head valve.
il have to look for another metering head i think.
thanks for the help
Posted
Local Hero
Re: Fuel flooding problem...
wats8vgticab said
When turning on the ignition the fuel pump comes on as normal.
Yeah but does it? It shouldn't come on when the ignition comes on, it should only come on for a couple of seconds (if that), then only run when the engine runs, then if the engine stops it runs for 3-4 seconds then stops again.
Even if the pump was continuously on, it should simply recirculate fuel around the feed and return line, since the air flap is resting at the bottom and there's not enough pressure in the injection feed side to open the injectors.
I'd be tempted to get a meter on the terminals of the fuel pump (or listen carefully to it) to check when it pumps or not. And also pull one of the injectors, place it into a jam jar and observe how the spray quantity changes, including shutting off if the flap is fully down.
Posted
Newbie
Re: Fuel flooding problem...
paul_c said
wats8vgticab said
When turning on the ignition the fuel pump comes on as normal.
Yeah but does it? It shouldn't come on when the ignition comes on, it should only come on for a couple of seconds (if that), then only run when the engine runs, then if the engine stops it runs for 3-4 seconds then stops again.
yeah, thats what its doing, so sounds like its working fine,
Today we changed the metering head, and checked the return lines to the tank (These are all clear and working), but the injectors still inject when the ignition comes on.
We can get the car running if we take the return pipe off the metering head and put a pipe from there into a jar. (im guessing this is because there is less pressure, the fuel isnt going to the injectors)
the 5th injector (cold start) squirts petrol when the key is turned for cranking engine.
could it be the pressure regulator causing this?
Posted
Local Hero
It could also be the pressure regulator (warm up regulator) but only a fuel pressure test would really give you the definite info on this.
Posted
Newbie
Havent done a fuel pressure test, but the injectors squel, just after the fuel pump comes on, then stop when the fuel pump cuts out (key turned to ignition) so fuel is getting to them when the air flap is down.
how would we go about removing the shims?
could it be the injectors that are knackered then, and cant withstand the fuel pressure (bearing in mind we just cleaned out the fuel filter so theres probably more fuel getting through now.)
Posted
Local Hero
wats8vgticab said
The metering head is second hand, but taken from a running car,
Havent done a fuel pressure test, but the injectors squel, just after the fuel pump comes on, then stop when the fuel pump cuts out (key turned to ignition) so fuel is getting to them when the air flap is down.
how would we go about removing the shims?
could it be the injectors that are knackered then, and cant withstand the fuel pressure (bearing in mind we just cleaned out the fuel filter so theres probably more fuel getting through now.)
It could be the injectors but it would be unusual for all 4 to fail in the same way. I think it would be possible to adjust the metering head so that they don't open unless the air flap is moved up (ie engine running and drawing in air).
Changing the fuel pressure in the metering head isn't too complicated. There's a 16mm nut at the rear left of the head, just to the right of the fuel filter. You can take this out and remove shims to lower the pressure (2mm shims removes around 10psi/0.7 bar). But, you'd need to be able to measure the fuel pressure to make sense of it. And also measure the control pressure provided by the warm up regulator, to eliminate this as the faulty part.
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