cylinder head rebuild queries / valve removal 1.8 8v

hi firstly i will say this is my first time attempting any work of this nature.

my current dx 1.8 8v engine in the car is rattling and has put oil into my coolant recently so i have picked up a replacement engine ev 1.8 8v i have started to strip the engine for a new gaskets, oil seals and a general clean up before putting it into my car,  i also wanted to put new valve stem oil seals and lap the valves back in but i can not remove the valves from the head.  other heads i have seen have the springs sticking up in the air and looked fairly easy to get a tool onto to remove collets.

my cylinder head on the ev engine is different to others i can find pictures of on other discussions because the springs are sat down within the casting of the block. i have removed the cam and the caps/buckets that where sat over the backs of the valves/springs  and i can not get down onto them with the spring compressor is there another way of doing this. because at the moment its the only thing stopping me getting on with the rebuild. i have everything ready to go and tomorrow off work yet cant get the valves out.

as already said this is all new to me so any advice would be great if you could provide pictures or links would be much appreciated. just think of it like your explaining it to a child and i should be ok

 

You need a different valve spring compressor as that one will never work, Ill try and find a link to one I used.

I used one like this.
http://www.drapertools.com/product/02339/Expert-Valve-Spring-Compressor-60-155mm-Capacity
 

ok thanks ive now got the right compressor.

 next issue is that 2 of the tubes/collars that the injectors sit in have broken from the removal of very very stuck injectors. the top end where you place the injector seems ok but the very bottom end where it protrudes out into the inlet port has broken off.. are these brass coloured tubes to house the  injectors replaceable?    

You mean these by any chance?
This is what mine come out like, 1 had a chunk missing from the end so I replace them all but they don't come out easy, I used a large allen key to undo mine.
I did paint a mark on the brass part so I could screw them back in position, not sure if you have to but I tried and 1 was slightly off.


New ones, I got mine from ebay, Ill try and find the link. mine are made by topran



Fitted back in you can see the white are slightly off but it's not made any difference to the running so I might of been worrying about nothing.

 

There is a couple of version of insert so make sure you get the ones that fit. These are the ones I fitted.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-GTI-MK1-MK2-1-8-16V-Corrado-Lower-Fuel-Injector-Insert-035133554-/151567468047?hash=item234a20060f:g:UG4AAOSw-W5UxoFz

thats the kiddies! thanks for the reply had nightmare finding a tool to remove them.. i used a 12mm allen to remove the top half of mine in the end it was  abit to small but it still worked to remove the old heads. the lower half/stems are stuck inside the head how did you remove yours.. and did the replacements go in easy enough.

mine are for an ev code engine 1.8 8v  dont know exactly what car the engine was from 

Yes the replacements fitted in OK as I attached them to the brass head part as you can see in my pictures, I wiped them over with a little bit of engine oil just to help things in.

I remove the plastic bottom part by pushed up from below but you can see only 1 came out in 1 piece as this one was still attached to the brass top part the rest fell to bits. I had already removed my valves so I could get a big bar (bit from my socket set) in from where the valve lives, place it on the plastic insert and give it a light tap with a small hammer, I then cleaned out all the little bits of plastic which broke off.

I don't have a good picture but from this angle you can see the cardboard through the injector holes. (head pre clean)

 

What else have you got planed for the engine and head?
Does the newer head have hydraulic tappets?

I rebuilt mine last summer that's why I have pictures.

wicked. well my head is off and totally stripped down now other than these broken inserts. i will get them out from below with a firm push upwards. thanks for the help

the engine in my 83 gti is a DX with no plastic splash cover under the rocker cover.

this replacement engine i am working on is an EV code with a plastic cover under the rocker

i was told this is likely from a soft top model judging by the additional cover above the camshaft and the fact it has a different oil cooling system to my DX engine.

my dx has an external oil cooler next to my rad and the ev engine im rebuilding to put in the car had water cooled oil..

the other differences are the injectors the tips of them are different

can anyone confirm that these 2 engines are definitely compatible? ie my dx parts will work on the ev block and head and if there is anyway i can find out what car this EV engine came from by using the number on the block.. because when ordering parts for the engine i was previously going by my reg number on gsf and so on..  if i can find what car this engine came from i can order parts easier.. ie a rough year or mk1 / mk2 

i dont have any big plans to be honest it was a mix of wanting to get an understanding of how it all actually works (previous mechanical experience is changing a wheel) and wanting to give the engine a check internally a new set of gaskets and oil seals all round before putting it into the car.. a constructive learning curve in my eyes.
as i said my current dx in the car is rattling and sounds ruff as old boots and wanted to get this ev built up and ready to install before removing the old one. i have valve stem oil seals and will lap the valves back in. its in very good shape condition wise it probably didnt need to come apart but its to late now!

You can check the valve guides by pushing the valves so the small end is flush then grab the valve end and give it a wobble if there is play you may also need valve guides, it was my exhaust valves which I needed to get renewed but its really a engine repair shop job.
It may be worth getting the head washed, I took my to a engine work shop and they have a sort of dish washer and for £25 they can wash it, you can see the difference in my head.
I used a bit of copper pipe to tap my new valve stem seals on but I did have to file out a little bit from the inside so the copper pipe was on the metal part of the valve steam seal not to rubber bit and again a little smear of engine oil to help it home.



Might be worth removing and cleaning out the tappets as well, there is a couple of guides on the web but I found I could remove the middle bit there is no way you can take it apart and clean the spring and ball but you can get out all the old black engine oil and clean them out then refill with fresh oil.

Middle bit out of tappets.


Ball to push in to get old oil out.


I left mine to sock in GUNK for a couple of days.


You can see the metal collar which stops the tappets coming apart.


Make sure you replace all the bits where you got them from so a egg box or similar is a good idea.


My Valves lapped in, one done and one not.



Before  and after. I did mine before the head was washed so if there was any grinding paste left if would be washed off.

I cleaned my valves with some wet and dry paper and the valve put in a battery drill.
Just don't clean to far up the shaft as you want a good seal where the valve guide is, you can see the tops finished in my other pictures.


Some done and some not cleaned.

thats a big help thank you,

i am now stuck on how to get the old valve stem oil seals out. i have removed everything other than these at the moment. and because i dont know the actual order these internals im not sure if theres anything else holding them in place,  they are in such a difficult position low down inside the head that i cant see what im tugging at, i dont want to damage the valve guides or anything else down there but my old oil seals seem stuck solid and a little pull with long nose pliars just broke tiny bits away at a time..  

They are made of rubber with a little metal spring wrapped around the top, I used a pair of long nose pliers and if you try and grab the outer edge they do pull off but it's not easy.

i have the new replacement oil seals here  bt when i look down inside the cylinder head it looks like there is another outer metal around the green rubber.. (not the spring as i already pulled that off)  does the bottom cap that the spring sits on also come out.. as that may be covering part of the oil seal and stopping me from removing it..
i will take a picture of what im looking at

i was under the impression this engine EV  was hydraulic lift but its clearly solid lift with shims. massive learning curve for me all of this.

i must be missing a trick here.

in my cylinder head i have the lower spring seat sat down there with the valve stem oil seal stuck around the valve guide (stopping me from lifting out the bottom spring seat)  i can not get the valve stem oil seat off the valve guide.. its so brittle that the rubber top part has just crumbled away trying to remove it even gently teasing a side at a time its just pulled the rubber top half off.. now leaving the lower half of the oil seal with the metal collar stuck.. there not enough room to get a pair of pliars onto this oil seal because the  lower spring seat has a flared inside edge that rises up and meets the oil seal.. so when trying to get a grip on the oil seal its just pinching onto the lip of lower spring seat at the same time. theres only about 3mm of oil seal to get hold of. and down in a small dark greasy hole its just not happening. ive spent half an hour trying to remove one and it wont budge.. it wont even turn on the guide.   there must be a trick or tool to get these off?  any help much appreciated..