Audi ABK on DX Head?

Just wondering if the ABK engine from an AUDI would fit the DX Head in a similar manner to a 3A or AGG/2e?

Yes no problems apart from ABK being a tall block. Use the later style of steel headgasket

Sound…I would prefer a 3A but having no luck finding one.

I am probably gonna take the 2e off will87cab's hands as long there's no clearance issues that you know of?

I have an OMP strut brace, and a Magnex Stainless 4 Branch Manifold will this not cause issues?

I know a machine shop that can fabricate the block off plates, so will just need the dizzy adapter kit from TSR.

I will also be after a dx head to rebuild…

This will be my first engine build but dont mind getting my hands dirty, so any pointers greatly appreciated.  

Ok there's obviously a few ways to do this conversion but in general:-

TSR dizzy ring
Blanking plate for block
Multi-layered steel head gasket
New head bolts
Suitable exhaust manifold
Rear diesel engine mount
Mk1 golf sump

Due to the increase in cc these engines require to breathe more, a ported & polished head would be nice, so would a better cam but in the 'real' world these cost a fortune for only a few more bhp (maybe 10-15) over standard 130. Any enlarging work on the head wouldn't go amiss though.
Use the 2.0 cambelt but change the audi tensioner for the standard Mk1 one, it's less than half the price and does the same job. You could also uprate the oil pump using the Mk3 16v and fit a Mk3 diesel windage tray but again this could be done at a later date.

Good luck

So basically, I can't use the stainless manifold I have already then? Unless I can find a 3A short block?

It may or may not fit depending on quality, the tall blocks are 15mm taller and this can cause issues with clearing the steering rack

right…the chap selling the 2e block has messured the difference between the 2e and the dx bottom end. The 2e is 14mm taller.

The nearest thing to the downpipe is 26mm away from the manifold with a dx in.

I am gonna just bite the bullet and go for it…If I can pick up another cylinder head off from a dx then I can build it up before hand, and make the swap a bit simpler.

Anyone know best technique for cleaning the block? Would blasting of any sort be ok?

No don't blast it with anything other than water & a good de-greaser. One stripped you can run a grinder over it fitted with a wire wheel

Sound...will I need to find a place to mount the WUR?

Yes, but it all depends on whiter you intend to use the front breather - if yes then a new position needs to be found to mount the WUR, if not then you use a blanking plate to fill the breather hole and mount it there. The issue is did VW/Audi think there was a requirement for the additional breather  :dontknow:

From what I have been reading on here the additional breather isn't needed. So will probably go the blanking plate route. I have seen the kit on TSR for £65, but it doesn't look like you can mount anything on it.

Do you know of any pics of one mounted to the blanking plate? so I can get a rough idea.

thanks again

I fitted an audi abk complete engine into a mk 1 years ago. it was a very low mileage unit, i turned up the distributor ring on a lathe and made the breather plate cover onto which i mounted the wur. dont know if it was because i blocked the big breather hole but i suffered with oil blowing out the small breather hole afterwards, and really it needed a catch tank.

do you reckon it had something to do with blocking that secondary oil breather?

Personally I'd leave the front breather as is and tuck the outlet into the existing pipework. That leaves you the issue of remounting the WUR elsewhere - not an issue you just have to figure out where  :roll:

jonwilliams84 said

do you reckon it had something to do with blocking that secondary oil breather?

With hindsight thats what i wondered as it was low mileage fairly newish engine and shouldnt have suffered with excessive crankcase pressure.

How big is the WUR?

When you say leave it as is with the outlet tucked into existing pipework, where would this need to be plumbed in? Could it go into a T-piece and then into the pipework for the existing oil breather?

jonwilliams84 said

When you say leave it as is with the outlet tucked into existing pipework, where would this need to be plumbed in? Could it go into a T-piece and then into the pipework for the existing oil breather?

Like this?

Courtesy of the author of http://www.bailey.org.uk/engine-conversion/   :wink:

Exactly. The WUR is roughly 4"x3"

that's sound, one last question! (well that I can think of at this precise moment in time!):

Will I have any issues mounting to the gearbox? i.e. the fly wheel clutch arrangement?

I am pretty certain its a standard box, if not one from a scirocco with a taller 5th, cause it is only pulling 6000rpm @ about
135mph…

No issues as long as you use the 210mm GTi (or scirocco) flywheel & clutch assembly. Let me know how the exhaust goes as I have an ABK set-up sitting awaiting to go in when I get the time.