1.8 DX water pump & housing replace/refurb???????

Taken my water pump off.  Part number: 056121013A

It wasn't leaking but as I am doing a full rebuild I thought it wise to replace it - both the pump & housing.  BUT can't find a replacement?  Hella used to make them but no longer.  Heritage only sell the pump but not the housing.  I could clean up the old housing I guess if they are no longer available and fit nre pump

Same issue with the thermostat housing - keep and clean the original cast alloy - or replace with a new plastic???    

try part number 037121010C, B CX and BX, latest part numbers  and lots available on ebay. can even get from VW at 75.15+VAT. They used to offer exchange on these but seems they dont any more

heres a hella one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333159915473

with the alloy stat flange if its good keep it for sure, just replace both o'rings obviously. often get both included with a new pump

I know Euro carparts do them - probably not Hella though.

DO NOT CONVERT ANY METAL WATER OUTLET FLANGE OVER TO PLASTIC

I went through many Replacements of plastic outlet flanges cracking at the attachment points, and or warping on my 90's Cabriolets.  

As I have Digifant, the only one I couldn't find is the front one holding the CTS and water Temp senders… But over the years and a lot of reading and re-reading the Bentley, and testing, I found that I could replace that one as well using parts off a 16V (the CTS sender) and the outlet flange off the 84ish CIS engines.

Also for a time there was a Vendor here in the US that Offered Metal t-stat covers for the Cabriolet, I sucked it up and spent 50 bucks for 2 of them for my 2 cars.

Instead of getting 6 months out of the front flange, I have had 0 issues with them since conversion in 2014.
….

I had good luck on the one flange kit made in IRELAND, which was plastic, and it would last longer than most but I still carried spares at my house of every plastic flange and t-stat cover….because they always broke on one of my children in the middle of the night and 50 miles from the house….I hated those cost reducing bean counting weenies that did design by accountants.

The other place where you want to remove the plastic bit is the Heater Hose connection below the heater valve… On my 90's and shoot 81 diesel it was a plastic barbed fitting that I easily converted to a Brass Barbed fitting after having one fail on me on the interstate.

see:
I still hate plastic parts, but thanks Tolusina. | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum

BOO to plastic parts……."They are from the Debil!"

for an 8v digifant you can also use a standard mk1 kjet metal front flange. For models without water-oil cooler you need 026121133C, for those with use part number 027121133A.

Use a mk1/diesel/16v/early mk2 m10 black dash sensor and pre-88 white m14 digifant ecu temp sensor part number 035919369M.

No modification or capping off of pipes/fittings required

I bought a Febi one a couple of years ago like this..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-MK1-1-8-GTI-Variant2-Genuine-Febi-Water-Pump-Engine-Cooling/302395539567?epid=8018414658&hash=item46682dc06f:g:gf8AAOSw4CFYq1G8

I always buy the complete unit when changing the water pump as the nut's and bolts holding it the housing usually rust away..  

mark1gls said

I bought a Febi one a couple of years ago like this..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-MK1-1-8-GTI-Variant2-Genuine-Febi-Water-Pump-Engine-Cooling/302395539567?epid=8018414658&hash=item46682dc06f:g:gf8AAOSw4CFYq1G8

I always buy the complete unit when changing the water pump as the nut's and bolts holding it the housing usually rust away..  

It's not that they "rust away" .  It is due to differential metal electrolysis.  Steel bolts into an aluminum housing…Causing torque shear from the use of a ratchet/socket or wrench to remove them.



What I have found after years of wrenching, even on a new to me full assembly… I remove every bolt one at a time, and cover the bolt with never-seize, replace by hand using a screw driver 1/4 inch 10mm short socket to hand tight only, after resetting each bolt,  re-torque the bolt to 87 in/lbs with a 1/4 drive inch/pound torque wrench, then spray the back side with Battery corrosion preventative paint.

On older bolts I clean the threads shiny with a wire brush and never use one that looks suspect, better to buy new…On OEM or old housings I also chase all the bolt holes with a tap.



This will reduce the corrosion of the bolt, and diminish the possibility of corrosion starting at the rear.  I can remember on my 81 Diesel that I snapped a head off a bolt when I was trying to install the water pump only on the car….( I have since learned my lesson which is…Soak those bolts for a Day in a Deep Creep penetrating oil.  Remove the entire housing off the car easy if there isn't a/c involved, and use an electric or air impact wrench to remove the bolts and only a 6pt socket…  In the future you will be able to remove the pump from the housing and not break any bolt on or off the car…Just going back be sure that you clean the bolts and re-apply never-seize (you call it copper grease I think.).

Just bought a complete water pump from GSF, cost was £30  after discount.

Thanks for all the help & advice !

Can you confirm 037121010C will fit my 1983 1.8 DX??

It appears in the images to have an extra water take off (blanked??) near the pulley spindle??

Thanks

yep its correct for a DX. I think I know the bit you mean, its a core plug and all the newer castings are like this

As always - very many thanks rubjonny!

On a new pump and Housing…
Take the time to remove every bolt one at a time and coat with never-seize, then replace it, retorque it to 87 in/lbs and go to the next one.

On the back side of the assembly spray a corrosion preventative as I have shown.

Same for the t-stat cover…as those two are the ones that you will deal with more than the Pump assembly.

Next time you will have an easier time of removal, and you won't have the Corrosion Build up.