'83 GTI cab engine advice urgently needed..

I'm going to try sorting the running problems out starting tomorrow and I have a list of issues I need to look at.
Any advice on any of the following would be greatly appreciated….

1. Engine reaches full operating temperature after only about five minutes running with the cooling fan kicking in.
2. Oil temp is reading 66 degrees C. in this time. I have no clue whether either of these is an issue or is this normal?
3. Vibration is excessive at all engine speeds but mounts seem intact. I've jacked the car at each of the four points I know of and the engine/gearbox hasn't moved independent of the chassis in any location.
4. The idle seems to need to be reset every time I start the engine as it remains high until I screw the idle screw in a couple of turns. It idles fine until next time I start it then has to be adjusted again and this is after allowing the car to warm fully.
5. There seems to be excessive tappet noise on no. 4 cylinder.

I wonder if there is a link between all these?
Pulling the plug leads off one by one has a very similar result for each cylinder but I'm going to try a compression test and fit new plugs as well since the car has been laid up for a few years
I have no clue about these engines and don't want to haphazzardly go looking for faults that don't exist. My biggest worry is that I'll damage the engine by having it running at all under these conditions.
Please help!!!!!

If its not over heating then is this a problem? They do heat up quickish.

Does it have an air cooled or water cooled oil cooler?

The 1.8 is not reknown for being smooth. Its not got aftermarket poly engine mounts has it?

The mount by the cam belt is the one that collapses over time. Jacking the engine up may not prove anything. You need to visibly check it.

If you keep screwing your idle screw in then eventually it will reach a point where it won't screw in anymore. Either its working loose whilst running or the threads are gone. I assume the one on the throttle body?

Hydraulic or solid lifters?

 

Hi Yomp.
No, it's not overheating so probably normal then.

.Oil cooler is air cooled so obviously no air flow while stationary.

As regards smooth, there must be a fair amount of overlap on the cam as quick blips on the throttle produce backfire and blue flame from the tail pipe.

I'll pull out that mount and inspect it today. I'm sure they're original and not poly.

Don't know which type pf lifters it has but if I remove the cam cover, how do I tell?


Thanks for the helpful reply. The temperature issues were the biggest concern. (Haynes manual on order)

I wouldn't expect flames from a high lift cam just on a blip of a throttle unless its being really over fueled.

If it is cammed up then that could be where some of the roughness is coming from.

It's probably solid lifter if its got air cooled oil cooler. If you lift off your rocker cover a solid lifter has 5 cam bearing caps. A hydro has 4.

Right.
Armed with your information I had a look at a few things.
It has solid lifters
The cam seems to be original and all the lobes measure the same from back to top of lobe (48.4mm) both inlet and exhaust.
Compression is 155 PSI in cyls 1 and 4 and 170 PSI in 2 and 3
Sparkplugs show signs of start-stop use but not fowling and are NGK BUR6ET.
The other thing is, I haven't put proper coolant in the engine, just water so it may be heating quicker.
I'm going to check the valve clearences, fit new plugs and proper coolant and put it on my classic policy today and bring it for a proper drive which should help.
Would it be easier to shim the tappets if I remove the cam?
I intend to fit a T- belt anyway and this would allow me to check the cam bearings.
One other thing- How do I remove the front (cam belt end) engine mount in order to check it and would I be as well off doing it in conjunction with the belt change?
I appreciate all the help and if you need any information on Lancia Betas, I'd be delighted to return the favour

Compressions sound OK.
Obviously measure your tappet clearances and record before re moving the cam, Unless you have the special tool I think you have to remove the cam.
Best to check the engine mount while the cam belt is off etc. I've never done one with engine in situ. But I'm sure it can be done.

Thanks again for all the help.
I'll get started pulling the poor thing apart and see what I need.

I got the car on the road yesterday and it's seriously quick!
A lot of back breathing and popping from the tail pipe on let-off and the revs come up so quick, I'm inclined to think I have a somewhat modified engine with possibly a lightened flywheel.
As fas as I can tell, there's an Ashley competition exhaust hung on there too, but a stock manifold (for now)
I'd only driven a 1.6 GTI Golf in the past but I can't imagine 200 cc would give this much.
I had a 2.0 16 valve Passat years ago and there's no comparison. In fact, it'd leave my 325 BMW for dead!
The bit of a caning has left it running smoother but struggling to idle at less than 1000 rpm and I now know the brakes need a little TLC too.
It's all good though and I'm looking forward to doing all the necessaries and having it sorted (and it's a long list which seems to grow daily)
Oh yeah, a lot of the noise and vibration I was experiencing initially has shown up to be a dislocated dashboard. It was basically just sat in place and moves freely in all directions. It's a tatty piece of scrap anyway and I have to replace it with a decent one soon.