Weber on clipper

I have just fitted a weber on my clipper (got for just ?10 from scrappers, bargain!!).

The carb came with one vacuum outlet with a t-piece and 2 lines. One of these I have put on the distributer (obviously), the other I have assumed is for the hot/cold duct on the side of the original air filter housing. Can anyone confirm if this is correct?

Also, with the one way valves that fed off the servo I have just linked one to the other to stop them venting. Does anyone know if these should just be removed or blocked off?

The car seems to run fine (even though I have not had it tuned properly yet and just fitted and run it). The throttle response is so much more instant than the old carb and the horrendous over-fuelling problems I was having on start up with the pierburg are now gone.

As it is running OK i am inclined to leave as is but if anyone can tell me the correct way, I would appreciate it.

Cheers

The green ball can b wiped off now, the weber does not need this a all. the only pipe u need is to run the air temp sensor on the side of the airbox, taken fom the weber.{pic below}

The other pipe you will need is the one for the dizzy vac advance. this if taken from the pipe to the master brake cylinder to manifild pipe. mine has two out lets on the pipe, one is blocked off now, and the other feeds the dizzy.



hope it help u
andy

my weber has two outlet vacuum pipes on the back, one loops straight to a vacuum thingy on the side of the carb, and the other is blocked off…  But I haven't got one on the front like you have, I reckon the other one on the back of mine must go to the airbox then !!!

Cheers Andy,

Hmmmm, mine seems a bit different to your carb. I only had one outlet from the carb, which comes out of the back of the carb (nearest the bulkhead).
This is (was) fed into a t-piece which I know, one line led to the dizzy, but the other was off when I found the car in the scrappies so I assumed it fed the air box (although I cannot understand how the effect of the vacuum on the dizzy would also operate the airbox correctly). The car advances and accelerates OK with it set up like this but I am not sure whether this leaves the air temp flap on hot or cold (it appears to be permanently 'suckin' when taken off the air box… this opens the flap for cold air doesn't it?).

Are you saying I should use a pipe from the one way valve outlets on the servo line for the dizzy and blank off the spare?

Cheers

jpa said

Are you saying I should use a pipe from the one way valve outlets on the servo line for the dizzy and blank off the spare?

Cheers

As far as I've known, the servo line connects to the dizzy, it does on mine :dontknow:

Cheers, Do you know if it matters which outlet you attach to? And do you have to attach it to the valve (yellow/black one-way I think they are) or should I remove these?

jpa said

Cheers, Do you know if it matters which outlet you attach to? And do you have to attach it to the valve (yellow/black one-way I think they are) or should I remove these?

How I've got mine and how I think it should go..  from the two outlets of the one way valve.  One (either one) goes to the dizzy..  and the other is blocked.  the outlet from the back of carb (nearest to bulkhead) goes to my airbox.

I assume where the vacuum pipe goes into the airbox and then out again, is the temp sensor that determines wether the flap is open/closed

BTW this is just what I think and how I have mine..  I do not know for definate..

mawwam has the same as me, one of the outlets on the servo line goes to the dizzy vacume advance. the spare one is blocked, this was used by the pierburg.

How the air box temp switch works is my vac. The idea is that the suction will pull an air driven flap. What happens is, when cold, the suction is through the air temp sensor/switch. This allows warm air to be fed into the induction via the corrigated pipe from the manifold shroud. As the air temp rises within the airbox  the sensor will shut at a given temp[no vac], closing the air pipe down, causing the flap to fall and then let in colder air. The sensor does two things, acts as a valve and also detect the air temp.

Where this feed was orginally, was  from a T peice between the Green ball, into the pierburg and then onto one of the servo to manifold pipe feeds.

As to where with the weber its up to you really, you can feed it from the weber or off one of the servo side. My weber has a provision at the front for some reason.Others have them at the back. But you could connect it to the spare on the servo pipe.

Just hope that makes it clear-ish. I have some where the original diagrams of the vac pipes of the peirburg. could stick em up if you guys need them for reference.

Hope it helps!
Andy

Cheers for the tips fellas! Found a diagram online and used that and have changed it to feed dizzy off servo pipe (and frigged blocking other) and took out t-piece and ran pipe from back outlet on carb to the airbox.

Does not seem any / much different which is odd but will get it tuned up properly and see how we go fuel economy and performance wise after that (although I dont think it is far off anyway!).

Its great not having a lumpy running / smoke spewing engine for the first 5 mins of a run though!!!!

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