Problematic 1b3 engine, 83Golf 1500

I have a running problem with my car that I would love to find out what is, but having got zero replys at vortex and my fellow Noregian folks can't answer so I try posting it here, since the mk1 game is bigger in the UK and our cars are the same, not like the us folks


Car:
1983 1500c with 1b3carb and auto trans, I'm 3rd owner and it's only been driven 52.000km

Problem:
The thing is that the car dies when running, I can go uphill at a good speed and at about 3000rpm with no porblem and then all off a sudden it shuts off.. I get a bouncy rpm in the cluster but that's do to it still beeing in gears, so when I go over in N on the auto trans the needle goes 6feet under :cry: Then I normaly wait a minutte and the car fires like it allways does, first time, and I get some running time before it shuts off again, everything from 2mins to 15, it all depends.. The same on ideling in my driveway, runs good then starts missbehaving the then dies..


Things I've done:
I've cleaned the carb and air pressure it
Air pressured the fule and the return lines
Swaped out the mecanical fuel pump and the catch tank thing
Checked all my vacum lines with a good running mk1 with same engine
Zip tied the vacum lines to be shure it's not leaking


What I think it is, is the cutoff solenoid thing on the front of the carb.. As the car runs so well and is technically perfect with it's only 52.000km, but then suddenly dies like this, and the cut off is there to stop afterunning or what it's called so it could be possible it's just shutting or doing the thing it's supposed to do then ignition is turned off, but does this when driving..


So can anyone please school me on the cut off valve?? That would be great!
So, does the cut off close(extract) og open(retract) when ignition turns off?
Does it have a eletric current that's always on when car runs??
I see it's wired to a red plug on the wather, what's this??
If i plug the hole with a npt or simular, so that no rod is going into the hole, to delete the cut off should that work or is it suposed to be shut with the rod and open when turnned off??
That's the only things I can think off now, but if you got any thing to fill in, plase do

My english may not be the best on some of the words but I've tried the best to get them right

Thanks alot
Frank RT

Sorry for the multipost.. Computer did bug for a few minuttes

have you cleaned the little filter in the tank?

Could be also the fuel solenoid as you say, maybe the connection is shorting to ground (hitting the manifold?) mine did this (occasionally) until I put some heat shrink on it.

In answer to your question. It closes by the spring when the power is off to effectively shut down the carb. I can't remember which way round it goes, but if you unscrew it and turn the key you'll find out, just short the body of it to ground.

Could also be something with one of the fuses/fusebox as this part of the circuit is fused via fuse 7 (I think or was it 17?) sorry I cant be more help on this as I don't have a car atm to be able to check.

Are the electrics all ok when it shuts down?

*edit* actually bouncy RPM is usually points, but that usually comes with rough running, could be something distributor related though I guess.

I am thinking same as Novo on this, remove the Fuel sender which is located under the rear bench and take out the sender and clean it out.
I think what is happening is Possibly you have a rusty filler neck and rust sitting in the tank.
As your going uphill the rust is moving about and maybe blocking the tiny holes for the fuel supply thus your cut out's, the tiny holes on the filter which are located on a little filter on fuel sender.
Of course disconnect battery before you do this.
Here is tut on how to remove sender without causing any damage.
Have you checked the filler neck for rust or as it ever been replaced to your knowledge?
Let us know how you get on.
Pete

The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Aye could be that too, just answering his question really hard to say without seeing it, as you know

novocaine said

have you cleaned the little filter in the tank?

I can check that out Thanks..

Madferret said

Could be also the fuel solenoid as you say, maybe the connection is shorting to ground (hitting the manifold?) mine did this (occasionally) until I put some heat shrink on it.

The wiring isn't hitting anything, but I havn't checked further back than just the one to the cut off so maybe it's grounding back there, I will check

Madferret said

In answer to your question. It closes by the spring when the power is off to effectively shut down the carb. I can't remember which way round it goes, but if you unscrew it and turn the key you'll find out, just short the body of it to ground..

Thanks for the answers, I have bought a blind plug, so that I could plug the hole and run without the cut off, but havn't tried it yet, will post an update on that when I try

Madferret said

Could also be something with one of the fuses/fusebox as this part of the circuit is fused via fuse 7 (I think or was it 17?) sorry I cant be more help on this as I don't have a car atm to be able to check.

Are the electrics all ok when it shuts down?

The rest of the eletrics is working fine, or I've just tested the wipers, hazzardlight and the interior light as they are things I've put on or hav had on when the car dies..

I will check all of the wiring all the way fron cut off to fusebox and fuses, use some contact cleaner on contact points to se if that will help 8)

Madferret said

*edit* actually bouncy RPM is usually points, but that usually comes with rough running, could be something distributor related though I guess.

No it's just bouncy since it's still in gears, so when put in Neutral it's flat at zero, but sometimes the car dies suddenly and sometimes it starts missbehaving abit and then  dies..

Peddersgolf said

I am thinking same as Novo on this, remove the Fuel sender which is located under the rear bench and take out the sender and clean it out.
I think what is happening is Possibly you have a rusty filler neck and rust sitting in the tank.
As your going uphill the rust is moving about and maybe blocking the tiny holes for the fuel supply thus your cut out's, the tiny holes on the filter which are located on a little filter on fuel sender.
Of course disconnect battery before you do this.
Here is tut on how to remove sender without causing any damage.
Have you checked the filler neck for rust or as it ever been replaced to your knowledge?
Let us know how you get on.
Pete
The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Thanks alot for the comment/help I will check out the tank and filler neck, but it isn't just uphill, it can happen downhill, flat and when idle in driveway..

How can you check the timming/points?? Any need for special tools??

Thanks alot guys, you've been the most help full off all I've asked over the  web.. And if you got anything you think I can find usefull for my engine/car please do fill in

Frank RT

I've checked all the fuses and they are all fine and actully new, I also checked the wiring going up to the cut off with a glovstick or what that is now called, and it have power.. Then I took minus to the cut off the a wire from plus to the terminal, the the cut off works just fine, holds itselfe in when power in on..

The distu cap is new and the rotor, the leads to the sprakplug is new and even the sparkplugs, took them out and they are a bit smoogy.. I uploade a picture later when I'm done..

But the car doesn't start now, it's been 3weeks since last time it was on, i've been offshore.. It's just rotatin, but my fuel level is really low, but stil you should get the car fired..


Will go out again now and check the tank..

The car doesn't start at all, i've cleaned my filler and put a magnet down in the tank but didn't get much up and if feelt and looked really clean. But the filler thing was DIRTY, think it was only one hole that was not fillet with all kinds of dirt..

The cars is only turning over, not starting. You see great movement in the fuel filter in the bay, and there is movment on the return line too.. And it really fuely smell out the tailpipe, doesn't think it ignites.. Did open carb and there is 50%full with fuel in  the floatcamber..

What can it be??
coil (how to check if it's working ok?)
points (how do you tell if it needs tuning?)
plugs (how shall they look on a good engine?
distru (Can it be to much advanced or retracted?)
other?

Any one with a DIY for the points, I've going to the shop tomorrow to buy the point thing.. What else to i need?? A feelergauge??

Thanks
Frank RT

Yeah, just check they open when the cam follows the cam follower. Turn the engine on the crank with a spanner and see if the points open enough to open the circuit. If they don't thats your problem.

You can set them by eye, but its not the best way and you really need a feeler guage (a thick peice of metal of a certain thickness) the manual will tell you what thickness, also a dwell meter is even better for this.

If the fuel filter is blocked up then that'll cause you problems, but it does sound electrical to me (although I'm electrically biased anyway)

Here is how the distributor looks without the cap

Here I'm testing the green wire from the coil, and getting a light in the glowstick thing

Here I'm testing the the wire that goes inside the distributor, but I'm not getting light in the stick

The other end


Shouldn't I get light to the stick in the wire ends inside the distributor??

I tested if the plugwires did spark when I put one and one to ground on the head, but I didn't get any spark wath so ever, could it also be the coil??

Just to show the new parts


Plugwire and the catchtank thingy


Should the plugs look like this??

Here is the pickup tube before the clean

The car

I'd say the filter is blocked lol, also check the vapour separator which is the black pot bolted tot eh rocker cover, disconnect fuel lines to it and turn it upside down and tap in your hand, see if anything comes out, mine did when i had one of those plastic version which are original ones, i changed for a new metal i.e later one and running fine.
Did you say you have had a good look inside the tank and the actual filler neck for rust, usually when you remove petrol cap, you will see an hole or holes at the top, but looking at the filter that is blocked fella and will not help.
See you have manual points, Madferret and Novocaine are your men for electrical side of car faults.
But there is a thing which i bought for a friend with aid of Novocaine that converts it to basically fully electronic points, i think the words are, like i say useless with elecy side of it.
But best mod you could do in my opinion instead of using manual points?
Car looks like a stunner fella
Pete

Looking at the points in the top pic, it seems to be on the cam but the points are shut so that looks like your problem, they need to be open at the point. (When the little block hits the highest point) set them wide to start with and see how you go.