Oil light on after oil change

Right then, sod the running problems, brake bleeding, rust and paint problems, I've got the buzzer of doom on.

Changed the oil yesterday including new filter. It obviously hadn't been done for some time as the oil was very dirty.

Filled it up and drove around later that evening (about 30 miles ish) with no problems, then when I statr up and pull away to go to work I get the oil light and buzzer.

Plenty of nice clean oil and fine on idle then when I start off I get the light and buzzer.

Please help, getting very fed up of consistent problems.

Ta, Dave

what oil did you use ? have you double checked oil level ? oil filter tight enough ? have a look in past posts about buzzer coming on i'm sure answer will be there somewhere. cheers jim

Just looked at  the oil they gave me at my local parts/supplies shop, it was 10W 40.

Is this the problem :dontknow:

Help :cry:

make sure its not over filled there is a valve in the pump if its over filled and the presure gets to high valve pops and u loose oil pressure, done this a time or too when haven't been to carefull when adding stuff to oil.
sometimes goes okay after a few days.

I think the magic overnight fixing fairy came to visit me.

This morning started it up and all was well (normal, anyway) and as I revved it nothing happened until about 3000 revs when the light and buzzer flicked on.
It seemed to be running okay and I've been for a little drive to get it up to temperature and there's no problems (apart from the stalling problem, think it's the carb )

So it's running smoothly and sounds good, no noise from the bottom end.

So was this a random glitch and does anyone think I need to do something else? :dontknow:

Any advice would be appreciated, ta.

Did you use a genuine or a pattern part filter?

i had same problem with mine, i used genuine vw filter, and apperanlty thay have some sort of valve  in or something?(sure some clever bod, will use proper terms ) which was fooked in the one i got, so the oil was going in but not comeing out again,  so might be worth checking yiour filter, make sure the oils comeing back out, when it goes in.

I think I mentioned this on another very similar thread…but it sounds like it could be an electrical glitch with the sender. So its worth cleaning the contact and checking the wire is in good condition. Once you have done this, if the light still comes on, I'd recommend fitting an oil pressure gauge (either permanently to the car, or as a test tool), and monitoring it. If you have generally low oil pressure, or that the pressure is normal but then there's occasional 'dips' in the pressure, then you have engine issues.

If the pressure is generally low, you could replace the oil pump.

If there are 'dips', this suggests a blockage in the small oil lines somewhere, so given the cost of a new motor, probably best to just replace the whole engine.

Right just got in from work, seems to be running okay still.

The new filter is an 'ETL' :dontknow: , I used the one they had at my local parts shop, the one that came off was a Fram. Will it matter a lot if I don't use OEM parts?

I was going to fit an oil pressure guage at some point, may make it a priority. Any suggestions as to where to buy and how difficult it will be to fit?
Don't like the sound of a new engine, though ops:

Ta, Dave

yradave said

Right just got in from work, seems to be running okay still.

The new filter is an 'ETL' :dontknow: , I used the one they had at my local parts shop, the one that came off was a Fram. Will it matter a lot if I don't use OEM parts?

I was going to fit an oil pressure guage at some point, may make it a priority. Any suggestions as to where to buy and how difficult it will be to fit?
Don't like the sound of a new engine, though ops:

Ta, Dave

The engine side of fitting the gauge is 1 sensor to unbolt and 1 new sensor to connect. Remake (or make a small adapter wire) 1 electrical connection and also route 1 more wire from the engine bay to the dashboard. The gauge itself needs earth, gauge sensor electrical wire from engine bay, +12V (ignition switched), dash illumination.

I forgot to mention, if its not electrical issues it could be that the newer, thinner oil has exposed a pre-existing fault/worn out engine.

Ta for that paul_c, will look into getting one soon, well when I get paid. :?

paul_c said

I forgot to mention, if its not electrical issues it could be that the newer, thinner oil has exposed a pre-existing fault/worn out engine.

The thought that clean oil has uncovered a previously hidden problem has crossed my mind, however I've only had the car a few weeks so I don't have that much basis for what condition it's in.
I was hoping that it's not any excessive wear in the engine as it's only done 90,000 miles but I suppose without servicing etc………….

Any garage worth its salt should be able to connect up a 'test' oil pressure gauge, to make a diagnostic reading.