MK1 Clipper Cabrio running problems
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MK1 Clipper Cabrio running problems
This is a bit of a long one, but I'm having problems with my MK1 Clipper Cabrio (1.8 with Pierburg carb), and I'll try to explain everything I've done so far.
A month or 2 back, the exhaust snapped apart, between the centre section and back-box. After a week of running the car with it this way, the car started to stall, and 'bunny-hop' while driving. We had the exhaust repaired, and then the car would run for 2 minutes or so then die. After 30 secs you could start it again, and it'd run for another 2 minutes. Then 2-3 weeks ago, the car refused to start altogether, so between myself and a mechanic, we changed a few bits…
1. Took Pierburg apart, cleaned it over, including jets, and put back together.
2. Replaced rubber cab mount to the inlet manifold.
3. Changed the mechanical Fuel Pump.
4. Changed the In-line Fuel Filter.
5. Opened the Fueltank sender, and checked the tank for rust/crud. Although the gauze filter on the end was missing, nothing there.
6. Changed the Dizzy cap, Rotor arm, and Plugs.
The car started beautifully, and we took it out, but it died twice. First time it just died completely, second time it seemed to be choking, and you couldn't put any power down. Then it stalled. I've noticed the fuel coming through the Inline filter is very bubbly, which says to me there's a tiny air leak in the fuel line. Surely this couldn't be causing the running problems. Apart from the 2 times it stalled, it ran great. Lumpy, but great.
Anyone have an idea what could be causing this? The only things I could think of are the O-ring in the inlet manifold, and the Coil, as these are pretty much the only bits I've not looked at.
Thanks
Phil
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Local Hero
Have a look for it.
"Making Cabbies More Beautiful One Roof at a Time"
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The root problem I eventually found was the hall sensor in the valeo distributer (Black Cap), quite common apparently, the valeo dizzy doesn't allow you to swap the sensor so I changed it for a 2nd hand Bosch unit and things improved dramatically, but not perfect.
The original sensor passed the test in the manual, but would appear to break down intermittantly.
During the diagnostics I had covered nearly all the points you've covered, including converting to a weber, but the pattern fuel pump I fitted (QH) caused lots of bubbles to appear in the return to the tank, I swapped back to the original pierburg fuel pump and all was well and car running like a sewing machine. - 2 weeks and counting
Hope you get the bottom of it as it nearly drove me mad
Good Luck
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Settling In
The root problem I eventually found was the hall sensor in the valeo distributer (Black Cap), quite common apparently, the valeo dizzy doesn't allow you to swap the sensor so I changed it for a 2nd hand Bosch unit and things improved dramatically, but not perfect.
The original sensor passed the test in the manual, but would appear to break down intermittantly.
During the diagnostics I had covered nearly all the points you've covered, including converting to a weber, but the pattern fuel pump I fitted (QH) caused lots of bubbles to appear in the return to the tank, I swapped back to the original pierburg fuel pump and all was well and car running like a sewing machine. - 2 weeks and counting
Hope you get the bottom of it as it nearly drove me mad
Good Luck
Posted
Local Hero
Weber,ATS,Apex,Ripspeed,Supersprint,K&N MOMO..tbc
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this sometimes cutting out with the foot down.
i gave the car to my dad who adjusted the choke unit which improved things dramatically.
havnt had the cutting out since but changed
distributer
fuel pump
leads
still dosnt run great but okay to be honest i plan to chase perfection within reason
still plan to change fuel line from metal to rubber
and fit weber as i find the pieburg to have a fickle choke
also need to get the head and valves redone
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