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Lots of questions - perking up a 1.8 auto

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So it seems I'm almost ready to get the MOT sorted (waiting on family for that) and already thinking about ways to speed Klaus up. He's currently got a 1.8 EX engine and original 3-speed auto box. I think the carb's been changed for a Weber unit (manual choke), and I know the dizzy isn't factory as a previous mechanic complained it'd been set up wrong! Something to do with only having vacuum advance and not retard? Everything else is stock.

Bearing in mind my daily driver is a modified Corrado VR6 - I'm not expecting miracles but motorway cruising is pretty tedious, particularly with only three ratios. I do like auto boxes (got a dodgy leg) and the acceleration isn't too bad but it's showing its age a little. Would be nice if I could squeeze a little more out… I have average mechanical ability so preferably nothing too drastic.

First question: Is there a four-speed auto box that'd fit? I've got a feeling all the newer ones require loads of electronics and feedback from the engine management (the 096 in my Corrado does), but you never know. I know it's tons of effort to swap to manual so I'd probably only do that if I got really enthusiastic and started planning an engine transplant.

Second question: Can I fit DX performance components to my EX? There seems to be almost no info about them online. Assuming I pick parts designed for solid lifters it's the same but without the fuel injection/ECU, right?

Third question: What should I fiddle with and what should I leave alone? The stock air filter is tiny and breathes through a tiny corrugated snorkel tube snaked around to a clip by the radiator, so that's in my sights - I'd be much happier with a bigger filter and a clear path to the carb. Are any of the aftermarket cams any good? Exhausts?

Thanks in advance :)

"Klaus": 1987 Clipper Cabrio, LA7Y, 1.8 Weber (auto)
1995 Corrado VR6, LK4Z: RIP
2003 Golf R32, LB5R

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the 1.8 does only have a vacuum advance, the retard feature was dropped on these models sounds like your mechanic is more used to the early ones ;)

not sure on the auto ones, the mk3 era ones should fit but dont know if they have any more gears, the only one i know of with brains is the vr6 auto box but that wont fit anyway. mk4 and newer definitely no good.

dont worry about the air inlet, its plenty good enough. a new filter is all you need there. bog std mann ones flow fine, if you must you can fit k&n or similar but they wont gain you anything.

for a decent increase in power fit a gti cam matched to the type of head, solid lifter or hydro. if not sure remove the cam cover and check the caps, if theyre all there its solid if 1 is missing its hydro. Fit a GTI kjet dizzy to match it (with vacuum advance like yours), and a mk1/cab/rocco gti 4-2-1 manifold and downpipe (the ones with the 6 bolt flange rather than the toilet bowl)

if you want to go a step further a gti head will help too. if its got a weber then no need to worry about the coolant channel, just cap the pipe off for it on the metal pipe and you're done.  block injector holes either by leaving injectors in, drop coins under the inserts or fit gearbox drain/fill bungs.

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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Good info, thanks :)

What's the difference between the GTI head and the EX one, and how different are the cams? If I'm doing a cam swap I might as well spend some cash and put in a decent aftermarket shaft..?

Stone

"Klaus": 1987 Clipper Cabrio, LA7Y, 1.8 Weber (auto)
1995 Corrado VR6, LK4Z: RIP
2003 Golf R32, LB5R

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the carb head doesnt have injector holes and has an extra hole for coolant which feeds the 2e2 carb, apart from that externally they are the same. the gti has better porting inside, but its not massively different so if you arnt confident about swapping heads dont worry too much. the GTI cams are a lot better, you'll see around 20bhp difference :)

in my book when tuning 8v engines its best to keep it cheep and cheerful, as you could just drop a 16v lump in. bear in mind to get 139bhp out of an 8v you'll have to spend a fair wedge, 1.8 16v has this standard. granted some may prefer the 8v power delivery, but if you dropped a 2.0 16v in you would have best of both worlds loads of low torque and plenty power up high, these start at least 150-160bhp before you even think about spending any money. to get that out of an 8v you would have to drop serious coin!

if you want to stick with the 8v then look at 2.0 bottom ends is a great upgrade and blocks can be had for peanuts these days

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

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Awesome, had no idea it'd make such a difference! Did the GTi cam come in both solid and hydro or is it hydro lifters only? Will have to see if I can see down the oil cap, don't want to be removing the valve cover until I'm ready to fit the rubber gasket and longer studs…

Also, how much would I be expecting to find one for? I know all about VR6 bits but the four-pots are still fairly opaque to me :)

Cheers,

Stone

"Klaus": 1987 Clipper Cabrio, LA7Y, 1.8 Weber (auto)
1995 Corrado VR6, LK4Z: RIP
2003 Golf R32, LB5R

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can get the gti cam in solid and hydro, pretty sure it needs to be from a 1.8 engine as the 1.6 is different?

i wouldnt pay more than 20-30 posted for a gti cam tbh, theres loads about and you cant give these lumps away anymore as everyone wants abf , vr or 20v lumps these days

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Awesome, thanks for the help. Once I've got it through an MOT I'll start having a play :)

"Klaus": 1987 Clipper Cabrio, LA7Y, 1.8 Weber (auto)
1995 Corrado VR6, LK4Z: RIP
2003 Golf R32, LB5R

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Passed my MOT so he's sat in the garage now which makes answering questions a bit easier!

V5 confirms he has an EX engine but the cylinder head is marked 026 103 373Q which the internet says should be on a 1.5 Golf Mk2 Driver :lol:

Can't see the cams through the oil filler (there's a plastic splash shield in the way) but I'm now pretty confident it's a hydro head so I'll get a GTi camshaft on order :)

"Klaus": 1987 Clipper Cabrio, LA7Y, 1.8 Weber (auto)
1995 Corrado VR6, LK4Z: RIP
2003 Golf R32, LB5R

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part number on the head isnt a great deal of help, its just the casting part and doesnt tell you what valves and cam etc inside unfortunately. if the engine is original chances are its hydro, i can probably check if you pm me the engine number

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

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Thanks, still waiting for the V5C to come back but I'll let you know when it does :thumbs: Engine bay's so dirty I have no hope of reading it off in this weather…

"Klaus": 1987 Clipper Cabrio, LA7Y, 1.8 Weber (auto)
1995 Corrado VR6, LK4Z: RIP
2003 Golf R32, LB5R

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Engine number from the V5C: EX040379

Cheers!

Stone

"Klaus": 1987 Clipper Cabrio, LA7Y, 1.8 Weber (auto)
1995 Corrado VR6, LK4Z: RIP
2003 Golf R32, LB5R

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Unless you know for 100% it is the original engine in the car and the v5 is right then go by that number but if unsure you are better off reading the engine code off the engine in case it has been changed at some point and the v5 not changed.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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as the man says, I can tell you though that the original engine was made in January 1987, so it would have been solid lifters as it seems the hydro tappets didnt come in till august 1987 for the cabrio and scirocco

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

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Needed a big service doing for peace of mind so I took it to Crazy Quiff's yesterday. Turned out to have hydro lifters after all :)

Glad I did as they spotted loads of extra bits - two dead wheel bearings, cracked fuel lines and a missing exhaust mount being the main ones, but they also tidied loads of stuff in the bay to put it back how it should be. So now I'm a bit more reassured it's not going to die on me!

The cams make it a much nicer car to drive - it's not a lot quicker but it's perkier under acceleration and the revs rise a lot quicker, especially on kickdown. Much nicer, especially with the rear wheel bearings not being knackered any more. Thanks for the tips :)

Stone

"Klaus": 1987 Clipper Cabrio, LA7Y, 1.8 Weber (auto)
1995 Corrado VR6, LK4Z: RIP
2003 Golf R32, LB5R
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