Crankshaft (front) bolt - Help with removal needed...

Hi,  I need to replace the front crankshaft oil seal on my 88 GTI cab.  I've removed the timing over, pulley wheels etc etc but try as I might I am unable to unscrew the crankshaft bolt.  Despite lashings of WD-40, and heat being applied from a blow torch the damn thing is stuck tight.  Even with 5th gear engaged, and the brakes applied the problem that I am seeing is that the toothed sprocket on the crankshaft (behind the crankshaft pulley wheel) is still turning when I am trying to undo the bolt - it turns about a 1/4 of a turn as the drive is being taken up before I run out of space and the ratchet hits an obstruction.  I've tried undoing from both underneath and above.  I'm trying to turn the bolt in a counter-clockwise direction.

Any tips on how I can prevent this sprocket from turning - if it was held in place I'm sure I could release the bolt - with a 4 foot pole extending the length of the ratchet handle.  I don't think that the problem is neccessarily due to the bolt being seized, but more to do with the sprocket turning whilst any slack in the transmission is being taken up!!!???

Any help would be appreciated please - I thought this was going to be an easy job!!??

Thanks.

best way is my ingersoll rand air gun,it will remove honda crank bolts and theyre tighter than a ducks arse in a sand storm.
bert

i would imagine that in the last 6 weeks you removed the offending bolt , but the way to do it without the air gun, is to fit the socket to a long handel rachet or extension bar and wedge a bit of wood or similar under  it so it points to the front of the car. then with the car in neutral click the start key for half a second.

the socket on the extension against the ground will hold the nut still, and the starter via the flywheel and so via the crank, will turn the crank, and snap the nut free.

works every time

Isn't the official non-airgun way, to lock the flywheel (for example taking the starter motor off and jamming some kind of (possibly special) tool in the flywheel teeth) then use a large breaker bar?

jamez said

i would imagine that in the last 6 weeks you removed the offending bolt , but the way to do it without the air gun, is to fit the socket to a long handel rachet or extension bar and wedge a bit of wood or similar under  it so it points to the front of the car. then with the car in neutral click the start key for half a second.

the socket on the extension against the ground will hold the nut still, and the starter via the flywheel and so via the crank, will turn the crank, and snap the nut free.

works every time

Actually no - still not done.  Rather embarassingly, on closer inspection, and after a couple of days tring to remove this bolt I realised that the leak wasn't actually coming from there It's coming from somewhere at the rear of the engine - I've not had chance yet to thoroughly clean the engine and inspect - it could be from the rocker cover :dontknow:  The oil leak is fairly mild so I have simply been keeping an eye on the oil level and topping up when necessary.  Interesting though what you said about wedging a ratchet against the floor and turning the start key - something a local mechanic friend had mentioned.  But you won't believe it - it didn't budge it one little bit - tried it about 1/2 a dozen times!!!! couldn't believe it myself but that's certainly the case.  I'm beginning to wonder now though whether the car was in gear when I tried ops:   Removing the starter and jamming the flywheel also seems like a good idea.  Anyway, thanks for the tips guys - job for January I think.