access to cambelt marks?

Im tempted to change the cambelt myself after reading the workshop manual and looking at past posts on the forum.

The theory of getting the markers on the crankshaft pulley and the intermediate pulley in line,plus lining up the marker on the camshaft pulley with the flange on the head sounds straight forward…but,

Had a look at the engine and thought,how is it possible to line up all the marks when the drivers side inner wing is so close to the pulleys? visability looks limited??

would be gratefull for any advice.


Lee.

eldridge said

Im tempted to change the cambelt myself after reading the workshop manual and looking at past posts on the forum.

The theory of getting the markers on the crankshaft pulley and the intermediate pulley in line,plus lining up the marker on the camshaft pulley with the flange on the head sounds straight forward…but,

Had a look at the engine and thought,how is it possible to line up all the marks when the drivers side inner wing is so close to the pulleys? visability looks limited??

would be gratefull for any advice.


Lee.

You don't have to line up the marks, you could just mark each reference point with some tippex and when you remove the cambelt, don't spin the crank or cam around.

Do it, it's easy.  I changed mine in September and it was the first time I had ever done it.  I followed the recommendation according to the Haynes manual and voila, no problems whatsoever.  I struggle to see how the inner arches get in the way though - I don't recall this being a problem at all.  The car needs to be jacked up high off the ground (with the offside wheel removed), so that you can check the marker on the intermediate shaft from below.  Other than that I can't think of any handy tips to suggest - follow the Haynes manual and you can't go wrong.  

I would however suggest that you remove the pulley wheel (4 allen bolts) from the crankshaft (noting its position since that also has a mark which lines up with the intermediate shaft) and check that oil isn't leaking from the crankshaft oil seal (behind the sprocket which the pulley bolts to) - these do fail after time and if so may as well be replaced now.  Removing the crankshaft bolt (to release the sprocket and access the seal) is another issue altogether though - read my posts if you need help with this.  Good luck!!

If it helps, you'll have a warm feeling that 4 hours or so of work, will have saved you around ?250-350 on a garage bill.

Thanks guys,i,ll give it a go,

its just that when i tell people about changing the cambelt,i get a suprised response equal to me telling them that i'm considering giving myself an open heart op!! being told to leave it to the pro's.

yeh,i think saving some money and gaining the satisfaction would make it worthwile.

just one thought?,is there a chance that after the belt is changed,would i need to play with the distributer because of a slight timing change?

I thought that i've read this somewhere?

thanks.

lee.

eldridge said

just one thought?,is there a chance that after the belt is changed,would i need to play with the distributer because of a slight timing change?

Shouldn't have to - the idea is to keep everything exactly where it is while you remove the belt. Like Paul_c I used tippex on the two lower pulleys to make sure they stayed in the same place throughout the procedure.

Once you're finished I think you'll be pleasantly surpised by how easy it is to do. I think people are wary in general because of the damage you can do if you get it wrong, but as long as nothing moves relative to anything else, it's quite straightforward.

If you're unsure once you've changed the belt, rotate the engine 2 full revolutions by hand (use a socket on the end of the crankshaft) and ensure that nothing fouls (i.e. pistons and valves).

HTH

Rich

i gues the only time that there is any chance of anything moving is when i need to remove the pulley so that i can remove the plastic cambelt cover?

eldridge said

i gues the only time that there is any chance of anything moving is when i need to remove the pulley so that i can remove the plastic cambelt cover?

No, it moves when you put the new belt on loose and then tighten it up as you fit it around the tensioner. So you need to keep it tightas you fit it around the lower gear, intermediate shaft, then cam gear, then slip it round the tensioner.

I see,

cheers paul.

lee.

i changed the dieel pump on mine i didnt get the chace to put marks on it but used a bolt to secure one pulley in plave a flat bar for the top cam and lined up the notch on the fly wheel for the bottom i'd never done it before either but it was easy i think its different on the petrols but still use the haines manual and u cant gowrong

Don't be scared to have a go, just make sure nothing moves when you do it.

I had to lift the engine slightly on my 1.5, sometimes you can JUST get away without doing it, seems to  differ from car to car…..