ABF conversion finished - first impressions
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Old Timer
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Cheers rubjonny
Definitely no coolant level system on car and no 42/43 relays.
Am I right in thinking the sensor with single red/yel wire below dizzy is my temp sensor for temp gauge on dash, and the sensor on same side of head just in front of water outlet in the warning switch that controls the warning lamp in dash temp gauge? I have replaced the warning switch and checked the earth to it. However, there is a brown/green stripe wire that I can't trace or find in the Electrical FAQ.
I'm thinking that I may have thought this was working, but as I had a dash earth issue, it may not have been at all…A least I get a flash now
Any pointers?
Thanks
Definitely no coolant level system on car and no 42/43 relays.
Am I right in thinking the sensor with single red/yel wire below dizzy is my temp sensor for temp gauge on dash, and the sensor on same side of head just in front of water outlet in the warning switch that controls the warning lamp in dash temp gauge? I have replaced the warning switch and checked the earth to it. However, there is a brown/green stripe wire that I can't trace or find in the Electrical FAQ.
I'm thinking that I may have thought this was working, but as I had a dash earth issue, it may not have been at all…A least I get a flash now
![:lol:](https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/themes/default/images/ocf_emoticons/lol.gif)
Any pointers?
Thanks
Posted
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MOTY 2013
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single black colar sensor with red/yel wire is the dash temp, the 2 pin white sensor is for the ecu. there are no other sensors for the coolant light its only run off the red/yel plus the level warning relay if fitted
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Posted
Old Timer
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Ah. Probably didn't need to buy a new white sensor then
cf_emoticons__BangHead: LOL Is this what's know as "ecu temp sensor'? I looked for a sensor on the ecu
Also, my single pin isn't a black collar one. I guess that means I need a new one of those. The temp needle seems to be working fine, but the red lights is flashing.
Many thanks
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Many thanks
Posted
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MOTY 2013
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yup thats the ecu temp sensor, its worth replacing i always do ![;)](https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/themes/default/images/ocf_emoticons/wink.png)
if its not a black one this may be why as the white type are not quite same rating
![;)](https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/themes/default/images/ocf_emoticons/wink.png)
if its not a black one this may be why as the white type are not quite same rating
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My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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Posted
Old Timer
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Thanks rubjonny. Ill rob that from the dx as well.
Cheers
Cheers
Posted
Old Timer
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Fitted the DX sensor with black collar this morning and it does the same. I know this switch worked 3 months ago when I took the DX engine out. The needle moves to indicate temp, but the light is still flashing.
As it is only one wire and the needle moves i can't believe I have messed up the wiring, but would the flasher lamp have a different earth to the needle? I wouldn't have thought so, but worth an ask.
Could the clocks have failed in some way?
Very frustrating.
Thanks
As it is only one wire and the needle moves i can't believe I have messed up the wiring, but would the flasher lamp have a different earth to the needle? I wouldn't have thought so, but worth an ask.
Could the clocks have failed in some way?
Very frustrating.
Thanks
Posted
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MOTY 2013
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only 2 things make the light flash, low coolant (if theres a 42/43 relay in there somewhere) and high coolant temp.
since you made the loom im pretty sure you would know if there was a relay hiding in there
so all this leaves you with is high temp or faulty sender, and since you have changed it and temp is ok then I can only think its the clocks which have packed in somehow.
there was a thread somewhere where the OP eventually gave up and removed the nut on the rear of the dash temp gauge for the warning light to get rid of it, if oyu look round the back you'll see the nuts which provide the electrical contacts for the gauges its the middle one on the dash temp IIRC?
since you made the loom im pretty sure you would know if there was a relay hiding in there
![:lol:](https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/themes/default/images/ocf_emoticons/lol.gif)
there was a thread somewhere where the OP eventually gave up and removed the nut on the rear of the dash temp gauge for the warning light to get rid of it, if oyu look round the back you'll see the nuts which provide the electrical contacts for the gauges its the middle one on the dash temp IIRC?
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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Posted
Old Timer
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Thanks rubjonny. Ill get a new sensor first just in case, then try my other clocks to see.
Mot tonight
Thanks
Mot tonight
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Thanks
Posted
Old Timer
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Passed MOT
Only one advisory - 'slight' play is nearside lower ball joint. Sweet!
And my VCDS works now. Tried a different download. Now I'm off to find out about these label files…
![:thumbs:](https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/themes/default/images/ocf_emoticons/thumbs.png)
Only one advisory - 'slight' play is nearside lower ball joint. Sweet!
And my VCDS works now. Tried a different download. Now I'm off to find out about these label files…
Posted
Old Timer
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I've had this completed for a month now and done about 500 miles. In the early stages I was being quite reserved with the acceleration as I did a full rebuild on the engine and wanted to bed the bearings in. I could tell it was an 'urgent' engine by the way it responded to the throttle.
Last night I took it from Portsmouth to Swindon again, but via the back roads to Winchester, and I now consider it 'bedded in' so gave it a little more…
OMFG! Does this car shift!!! It will spin up the 195 tyres (Falken 914, so quite grippy) in 3rd if you let it, and it just keeps on pulling. The pull seems even all the way from about 3000rpm up to 6000rpm - I haven't needed to go beyond that and I don't know what the top end is. (Is it limited in ECU?) I used the Mk3 DPA gearbox to give better top end, but I don't really think you would benefit much from the 020 box as it will just make the bottom end more hectic and less grippy. And the cable change is fantastic with the 02J tower and A3 shifter.
The smoothness of the engine is very impressive, with really usable torque and power throughout the rev range. I enjoyed driving it with the 1.8DX in, but I could never go back now as it would just be a total disappointment compared to what it is now. I have it on a standard exhaust and it is quiet, but sounds great when you give it full throttle.
I can't recommend this conversion enough, it is truely awesome!!!
Last night I took it from Portsmouth to Swindon again, but via the back roads to Winchester, and I now consider it 'bedded in' so gave it a little more…
OMFG! Does this car shift!!! It will spin up the 195 tyres (Falken 914, so quite grippy) in 3rd if you let it, and it just keeps on pulling. The pull seems even all the way from about 3000rpm up to 6000rpm - I haven't needed to go beyond that and I don't know what the top end is. (Is it limited in ECU?) I used the Mk3 DPA gearbox to give better top end, but I don't really think you would benefit much from the 020 box as it will just make the bottom end more hectic and less grippy. And the cable change is fantastic with the 02J tower and A3 shifter.
The smoothness of the engine is very impressive, with really usable torque and power throughout the rev range. I enjoyed driving it with the 1.8DX in, but I could never go back now as it would just be a total disappointment compared to what it is now. I have it on a standard exhaust and it is quiet, but sounds great when you give it full throttle.
I can't recommend this conversion enough, it is truely awesome!!!
Posted
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Glad the engine is going great guns, with most engines there is little point going above 6,000 rpm as the power normally drops off.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
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Old Timer
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Huw, my experience is the exact same. It's a good engine and is very suitable to the Mk1, fast enough to be fun and I'm still getting over 40MPG on a decent run. I've covered in excess of 5k miles since having this done in May, I'm on my third Lambda probe (thanks Johnny!), which I just fitted this week, car runs ideal now. Still has a stutter at 3200rpm, but I can live with this. I'm in the process of increasing the cooling capacity of the rad, using a GTI sized direnza unit with twin cooling fans. It's a conversion I can see is very popular, I just wish I'd have pushed for the cable change box too, mine remains a standard rod arrangement and is a little notchy and grinds into second most of the time, but the engine is the heart that certainly raises the bar for the whole driving experience.
Glad you're enjoying it too!
Glad you're enjoying it too!
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Posted
Old Timer
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mark1gls said
Glad the engine is going great guns, with most engines there is little point going above 6,000 rpm as the power normally drops off.
LOL
I'm no 'Red Liner' and I agree with you. Just curious really as to if the ABF is protected in ECU for high revs.
Posted
Old Timer
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Craigt said
Huw, my experience is the exact same. It's a good engine and is very suitable to the Mk1, fast enough to be fun and I'm still getting over 40MPG on a decent run. I've covered in excess of 5k miles since having this done in May, I'm on my third Lambda probe (thanks Johnny!), which I just fitted this week, car runs ideal now. Still has a stutter at 3200rpm, but I can live with this. I'm in the process of increasing the cooling capacity of the rad, using a GTI sized direnza unit with twin cooling fans. It's a conversion I can see is very popular, I just wish I'd have pushed for the cable change box too, mine remains a standard rod arrangement and is a little notchy and grinds into second most of the time, but the engine is the heart that certainly raises the bar for the whole driving experience.
Glad you're enjoying it too!![]()
![]()
My cooling system with std gti rad seems to be working fine. Bet the low down acceleration is good though. 40 mpg, I can't get much more than 30 at the mo as I just love throttling it
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Posted
Old Timer
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Its been 6 months since I completed this conversion and I'm still well impressed. Only thing that needs sorting is the exhaust as it is not the best fit. I feel a stainless one going at some point from that manifold back.
Anyway, on to the point of my post….. Coolant light!
Just to recap. After the conversion it flashed constantly. I changed every sensor or sender that could possible cause this to no avail. My only option was to try another set of clocks - which I never got around to as I just got used to the flashing light. All my gauges and MAF readouts were telling me the engine is fine, so no worries.
Friday the flashing stopped. I have done nothing to the car to assist this. I haven't lifted the bonnet in weeks. Lamp comes on during ignition, then goes out and seems to work fine. All very strange!
This coolant temp light is a complete mystery to me!
Anyway, on to the point of my post….. Coolant light!
Just to recap. After the conversion it flashed constantly. I changed every sensor or sender that could possible cause this to no avail. My only option was to try another set of clocks - which I never got around to as I just got used to the flashing light. All my gauges and MAF readouts were telling me the engine is fine, so no worries.
Friday the flashing stopped. I have done nothing to the car to assist this. I haven't lifted the bonnet in weeks. Lamp comes on during ignition, then goes out and seems to work fine. All very strange!
This coolant temp light is a complete mystery to me!
Posted
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Old Timer
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Huw, I'm in the [process of tracking down a manufacturer for a new four branch manifold. After I removed the power steering, the conversion arrangement I had didn't fit. I still have the rod shift arrangement, but have just changed my box.
For the price of a curry and i'll give you my old manifold and downpipe. (from march!!) The only issue is the striking of the rod change. It should fit yours no problem. The tech has matched it to a slightly larger passat ABF cast manifold and it seems to lower the pipes enough to miss out on striking the chassis and anti roll bar.
This is assuming I get someone to make me a four branch…
For the price of a curry and i'll give you my old manifold and downpipe. (from march!!) The only issue is the striking of the rod change. It should fit yours no problem. The tech has matched it to a slightly larger passat ABF cast manifold and it seems to lower the pipes enough to miss out on striking the chassis and anti roll bar.
This is assuming I get someone to make me a four branch…
Posted
Old Timer
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Many thanks Craig
I would be a fool not to bite your hand off.
Thanks again
Huw
I would be a fool not to bite your hand off.
Thanks again
Huw
Last edit: by huw169
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Old Timer
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Posted
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Old Timer
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Posted
Old Timer
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Looks very nice. How close does it sit to the steering gater?
Thanks
Thanks
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