G60 Conversion

Viewed this build from 1-16 took a while but great Build fella.Never knew there were cool mk1s from Tivvy way ,which is so close to me..Hope to see you at a meet one day .

FXTURE said

Viewed this build from 1-16 took a while but great Build fella.Never knew there were cool mk1s from Tivvy way ,which is so close to me..Hope to see you at a meet one day .

Thanks mate, met up with Isaac last weekend and he has a very nice mk1

Small update - Took the car out for a spin and getting an oil temperature of 85c at 70mph so very chuffed now. Was getting 105c at 70mph! but that was on a day where the ambient temp was 27c.

I'm up to dubforce next week to get a live map for the G60. Should give me some reassurance that everything is working well and get some improvement in drive ability as I'm only using a generic sns chip at present for my mods and I'm sure there is some room for fine tuning  

Hi rich,
Thanks for calling round the other day mate, was good to finally put a face to the name/car!. Lovely mk1 you got there, very impressed with it!, next time we will have to fire them both up and scare the neighbours!.
Isaac

really good read and really nice car, in love with the yellow!

baids said

really good read and really nice car, in love with the yellow!

Cheers bud

Another small update.

Yesterday I popped up to Dubforce in Petersfield. Bit of a trek from Devon (2 and a half hours) but we'll worth it.

Was expecting a rolling road session but ended up as an on road remap! 

Anyway a wideband lambda was attached to the exhaust and cable run through the car, a special ECU was attached to my car that allows the tuner to see what the car is doing in real-time on a laptop.

James had a special map made before we went out and then on the road fine tweaked the fueling.

Boy what a difference to the sns chip I had. James is able to create a map which uses the boost map so as soon as positive boost is made the car picks up straight away. The wide open throttle switch is no longer used so you have instant throttle response.

The car also feels much stronger. I whole heartedly recommend using one of James maps as the car feels so much more responsive. 

Big grins on the way home to Devon and she didn't miss a beat

OK few changes After hearing about Ade lhasadreams and his Milltek sport classic exhaust and how happy he was I decided to give it a go. Expensive leap of faith but I'm well chuffed with it.

The build quality is top notch, the tail pipe is what I wanted and the sound is quieter than the Jetex I previously had. All I had to do was make up a link pipe to my supersprint manifold.

So I've almost finished my stereo install.

Got my sub installed, I wanted a compact box that didn't take up space in the boot. Bought an Audi A3 sub box like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/A3-8L-Custom-Box-Subwoofer/dp/B00BEHU6UC

Reduced the depth of the box and had to angle the rear corner so it followed the contour of the c pillar.

I need to re cover the box in a matching material but pleased how it turned out.

Using a hertz ES F20.5 sub as it can fit in a compact box.



Amp rack and storage:


Got my JL C5-525x in:


Oh and my Kenwood KDC-PS909 phantom face. 8v balanced output with no internal amp. Pretty sweet retro SQ headunit



Got a wheel change on the horizon so watch this space  

Tidy work

Now why does your car look familiar?



Great build thread.

Cheers from the other side of the world.

Paul

Been a while since my last update.  Been tinkering The car is in hibernation but have been finishing a few small jobs ready for the spring I've done a bit of jiggery pokery with the head unit and gauges.

I've mounted a phantom face Alpine 7998r in the top of the dash board and the gauges in the cigarette lighter tray.


I got a piece of stainless laser cut for my gauges to fit the cigarette tray area:


I painted the stainless with some plasti dip black rubber coating, I just thought that I could peal it off to reveal the original brushed finish if I wanted in the future.

I also bought some relay holders and hard mounted the power and fuel relays beside the ecu. Bit of a pain as had to remake all the connections as the spade terminals didn't have locking latches.


Finally some BBS RM's ha ha. The car started out on these, I sold them and bought several other wheels and arrived back where I started lol

I have a friend in Bulgaria who has a real fetish for exotic wheels, he had a set of RM's and got them polished and refurbished for me I bought some alloy hex centres from Germany with custom dimple rings and have some gold plated stainless rim screws to replace the chrome ones.

I have 6.5" at front and 7" at the rear for a very slight staggered look

 you got a phantom…. I've been after one for ages

Fantastic read, do you ahve any more info on the gear selector mounting in the mk1 tunnel?

rmn said

Fantastic read, do you ahve any more info on the gear selector mounting in the mk1 tunnel?

Thank you Basically I started out with a 20v AGU from an audi A3 and kept the 02j gearbox and cable / shift turret.

The original turret hole needs opening up a bit to accommodate the new turret if you plan to mount it from underneath. The existing exhaust mount will need to be removed that sits in the middle of new turret location.

To bolt it up you will need to drill hole(s) and then make sure its as high up as possible in the exhaust well so it doesn't foul.

I like the air box mod and that bartek damper looks like a nice piece of kit! Makes me want to get out in the cold and work on mine.

Been a bit quiet with updates recently, mainly due to the winter months and having the car off the road.

I promised I would sort one thing out early winter but in reality happened a few weeks before the MOT lol.

When I fitted my G60 I got quite intimate with the underside of the car I noticed that the factory jig points at the rear were a bit crusty and the chassis legs showed signs of corrosion. After experiencing this before with my gti restoration I know how terminal this can become and how common this is with all Mk1 Golf's.

Fortunately this is the only part of the car that needs attention.

Anyway after a bit of digging around at the rear found a few holes where the paint looked a dbit dodgy on the rear valance.


Also found some surface rust on the lip of the valance.

The jig points:
Now someone had cut the towing eye off but left the associated mounting parts still attached to the chassis leg and then welded over it to hide where it was.

Out came the grinder with a 0.8mm cutting disk to improve access (in the picture below I've already removed it) as this would be nigh on impossible to get to without working from the rear.

Area cut out with the hole in used as a template to put good metal in:
I had a spare rear valance I never used on my gti project and cut and trimmed the part down until it fitted the hole.

Sorry I had already welded the panel in at this point and have ground the welds down with my handy Makita 9mm file sander (so good for removing welds). I then applied a very light skim of filler and let it dry.

Where the chassis legs were corroded I wire brush removed the surface rust. It was just surface rust thankfully I coated the corroded areas with Bilt Hamber deox gel and cling film and left it over night. In the morning I washed off all the deox gel to find nice shiny metal Next I coated the chassis legs in Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 for extra belt and braces . 2 coats as instructed, at 90 degrees from the previous coat.
Now on to the other side. I took the backbox off for extra clearence and then noticed a suspect area where the panel line curves round. I could see some welding rod poking out of the under seal which sent alarm bells ringing!!

This is the beaut I found!
Someone had patched behind the valance and smoothed the front with filler!!!!

Time to do it right!
I decided to cut more out!
Then thought the bottom of the valance where the exhaust pokes out was a bit rusty so out it came and in the new metal went!

Just sprayed temporarily in a zinc primer whilst I called it a day:
I then did the same process to the chassis leg, deox gel, hydrate 80 etc. Next I applied a light skim of filler over the ground welds and once dried started the messy part. Sand sand sand!! Then primer and sand sand sand!! This is a picture of some high build I left to dry before sanding again whilst everything was drying I applied Bilt Hamber electrox zinc rich primer to the chassis legs. Boy this stuff is thick, took some effort to stir it and the can weighed a ton with all the zinc in it.
That lighter colour stuff is Bilt Hamber seam sealer. I coated all the welds and also the seams of the chassis leg.

Finally once everything had dried I coated the chassis legs in black stone chip.
Then back to the rear end again and 10 coats of Ginster yellow paint drying.
Lots of cutting, compounding and polishing and looks like new. Will get some pictures of the finished article up when the sun comes out…

I had my MOT a few weeks ago and it flew through so ready for driving Oh and a weird thing happened yesterday, my brother text me and said my car had just appeared on Instagram before I owned it!

Now a more sensible ride height ha ha

How are you finding the exhaust, is it loud? I'm about to buy an exhaust for my g60 conversion and am leaning to the jetex system. I was looking at the powersprint system but by the sounds of it they are pretty loud

Cheers

MPF85 said

How are you finding the exhaust, is it loud? I'm about to buy an exhaust for my g60 conversion and am leaning to the jetex system. I was looking at the powersprint system but by the sounds of it they are pretty loud

Cheers

It's much quieter than the jetex and supersprint / powersprint when you're on the move. Idle is quieter but still quite loud for my liking, but then I like exhausts silent until the loud pedal is pressed.

The problem is G60's are noisy, my Corrado G60 was noisy until I got a custom exhaust made up.

The Corrado has a suit case style silencer which takes most of the noise out of the system. On a Mk1 there is no space for this as the wheel well is in the way.

On the motorway it is noticeably quieter. There is no boom.

I don't think you will get a quieter exhaust than the Miltek unless you go custom and then it's a big ask for the fitter to get larger silencers in.

I guess standard mk1 gti exhaust is an option but 2" bore will probably be too restrictive for the engine. The Miltek is 2 1/4 so just right.

Didn't realise you were using the miltek system, I'll have a look into it.

I don't mind it being a bit noisy, just don't want it sounding like a boy racers corsa!

Thanks 

Yes the Miltek classic for the gti.

Really pleased with it. The build quality is top notch. 

The tail pipe is not fixed to the back box so if it gets damaged you can replace it easily.

Nice touches like that

This is my third exhaust now and I'm happy ha ha