G60 Conversion

Had a bit of a mare with the fuel tank. I had my Gti tank refurbed by a company who removed the lid of the swirl pot when lining the tank which effectively renders the tank useless.

I bought the bits necessary to fit a lift pump but found you can't do this in a Gti fuel tank as it collides with the swirl pot

So wasted a bit of money on that gti tank with its restoration

Bought a carb tank which has arrived today so going to fit that tonight with the lift pump and swirl pot. I'm going to make a photo guide of how to remove the fuel tank and then install the fuel tank with the lift pump and cabrio swirl pot to help others out.

Sorry to hear you bother with your GTI tank! I was going to send mine to the same place you did, don't think I'll bother now.

A photo guide would be brilliant and help a lot of other people out as well

 Getting very close now, thought I was going to start her up today bu ran out of time.

Please excuse the mess in the engine bay, I need to shorten some wires and relocate bits and pieces but trying to get her to fire first.



My paper air filter
John aka RubJonny has been an absolute legend with wiring help, I'm almost there now but have a few questions if anyone can help? John seems to be away at the moment as he is normally super quick in responding or he's just fed up with me and ignoring me I have this yellow spade terminal without a home:


I'm trying to sort out the ignition feed from the switch where someone has done a dodgy splice for a fuel pump feed and notice the wire doesn't look very clever (this  will be done correctly):


I have traced the black wire to this position in the fuse box :


I want to take an ignition feed to my G60 standalone loom, is there a spade on the back of the fuse box I can take a feed from without splicing the black wire?

Finally I don't appear to have a starter motor feed. Do I just need to add a pin to D24 on the white connector block for this?

Thanks

Rich

engine bay is coming along nicely, and love your paint choice  

matt

pazwaa said

engine bay is coming along nicely, and love your paint choice  

matt

Cheers Matt

Been watching this for a while now, it's looking really really good! Love it  

yellow spade is oil pressure switch, it should match to a spade on your engine loom. if your g60 loom is based off a later mk1 engine loom this will be green/black instead which is oil temp, so you'll have to plug it in there and swap the green/black and yellow wires over in your engine bay

for the ign switch wire is it from pin 15? if so thats the main ignition feed for the whole fusebox and engine/coil. the wire has probably been damaged and ign feed lost, and to fix it captain bodger has run another wire to the G spade on fusebox to power the ignition rail that way, not big or clever.

trace the ign switch black wire to the damage then fix this and then you can remove the bodgy fly lead

for an ignition feed look at d/2, d/7 or G spade 2 or 5 (G spades are the bankof spades you have pictured there)

rubjonny said

yellow spade is oil pressure switch, it should match to a spade on your engine loom. if your g60 loom is based off a later mk1 engine loom this will be green/black instead which is oil temp, so you'll have to plug it in there and swap the green/black and yellow wires over in your engine bay

for the ign switch wire is it from pin 15? if so thats the main ignition feed for the whole fusebox and engine/coil. the wire has probably been damaged and ign feed lost, and to fix it captain bodger has run another wire to the G spade on fusebox to power the ignition rail that way, not big or clever.

trace the ign switch black wire to the damage then fix this and then you can remove the bodgy fly lead

for an ignition feed look at d/2, d/7 or G spade 2 or 5 (G spades are the bankof spades you have pictured there)

hi John, I already have the low oil pressure blue wire connected to the side of the head. Is the yellow wire not needed then?

on the mk1 the oil pressure switch wire colours are reversed so the dash is expecting the feed from the side of the head to plug into the yellow spade hanging off it.

so if you have the green/black oil temp wire spade on the engine loom plug it in there then swap the green/black and blue/black wires over. if no oil temp snip the blue/black wire at the fusebox and plug it to the dash yellow

or alternativelty swap the dash loom for a later mk1 loom, or chop the green/black on the dash loom and splice the yellow to it, and run the green/black dash wire to a male spade and plug the engine loom green/black female spade into it

Hi John,

Thanks for the response.

I'm unsure what I have for a dash loom as the clocks are not gti MFA ones, they are as per the picture I sent you a while back.

The original engine loom was converted for an afh engine and went with the engine. I'm using a gti loom where it has been stripped back to the bare minimum.

Should I just run a wire from the yellow connector on the fuse box to the side of the head and attach the blue / black wire from the d connector to the thermostat housing white switch. I think you said it can be tested by reving over 2k rpm until the buzzer comes on if so I need to switch it over?

Wish me luck for today!!

Cheers

Rich

if its a gti clock loom there will be a smaller connector near the main dash clock plug which fitrs to the rear of the clocks, this has the oil temp sensor wire in it and a few other mfa function wires. if its not there then no MFA wiring so no green/black wire.

in this case what you'll need to do is snip the blue/black wire on the engien loom for the oil pressure switch, crimp a female spade onto it and plug into the yellow wire on the dashharness. leave all the oil sensor wiring in the engine bay as it is

That's right it doesn't have the smaller connector on the back of the clocks just the big one that connects to the bottom.

I only have one wire at present which is the blue/ black to the side of the head. I don't have a second wire for the front thermo housing??

I have the correct tool to remove the pin from the d connector and will connect it to the yellow wire.

ok check dash plug and see ifg you have a wire in pin 9. if you do then you need to run another wire to the fusebox for the high oil pressure switch on filter housing to pin D/21

You must be fed up with me by now  

That's brill, I'll check that and put a pin in if necessary and will pop the d01 pin out for low oil pressure and connect to yellow connector.

rubjonny said

ok check dash plug and see ifg you have a wire in pin 9. if you do then you need to run another wire to the fusebox for the high oil pressure switch on filter housing to pin D/21

Hi John have some good news and bad news.

With the ignition on both pumps are firing and there is fuel at the fuel rail.

When cranking there is a good spark at the coil.

I have removed the spark plugs to check if they are wet but no fuel in the engine which leads me to think there is a problem with power getting to the injector rail.

Have you got any advice on what to check?

I connected the ECU cranking live to g5 so assume its getting power.

Cheers

Rich

Oh and the fuel pumps keep going when the ignition is on and doesn't turn off, I'm sure it should turn off when primed.

cranking live should be c/18 or spliced to the starter wire, G/5 is an ignition live feed, not that it would cause this issue like. to start which check for power at the fuel rail with the ignition on, if nothign go back to your wiring and make sure the rail is fed from e/14 or N.

for the fuel issue you'll need to go over your fuel relay wiring, if you're using the d/13 pin make sure you have a 67, 80 or 167 relay in slot 2

Hi John the engine loom is separate from the fuse box. I included a diagram of the wiring in my private topic.

I have 2 standalone relays. One for the power and one for the fuel pump.

I have earths to the side of the head and then mounted to the chassis. The power goes to the battery and the live to relays on g5.

I took the live off g5 and attaches it to c18 but then the fuel pumps didn't come on when the ignition was on as before.

The power relay is a genuine one but the fuel pump looks like a cheap one that was provided with the loom I do have a genuine one however.

is the ecu relay clicking with ignition? check fuses 17 and 18 as they supply the ignition live feeds i mentioned to use for triggering relays and such