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kr ignition question not cured by searching

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searched all the timing and ignition posts i could but cannot answer this, I've put another kr engine in the missus cabby, it turns over fine but won't run properly at all, it barely fires up and when it does it runs awful.

With all the pulley marks lined up and the diamond cut in the fly wheel is in line with the timing mark on the gearbox, which i now believe to be wrong (6' BTDC) when it should be 0'TDC, i dropped a screw driver down plug hole no1 and got it to the top of its stroke and the torx bolt was lined up with the gearbox marker, this is better i think?, but to get it to almost fire & run i have to twist the dizzy body as far as it will go clockwise and it runs like rubbish if at all, the only thing i can think is to put the plug leads 1 socket out of line anti-clockwise to give me more motion through the dizzy body but this can't be right surely?

can anyone suggest any other things to look for apart from the obvious timing marks??

Last edit: by unityjon

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Bump… I'll be on it again today but really need some pointers   :'(

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You'll need to remove the cam cover to check this, that both cams are correctly aligned. There are two dots on the inside faces of the wheels that need to be exactly aligned at quarter to and quarter past 3 in order to line up. The small chain that connects them can wear and should be replaced.

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thanks cero, the chain is tight, and was replaced 20k ago, there's more to tell on this

today first thing i got tdc by using a screw driver in plug hole no1, then turned the bottom pulley slightly to line up the gear market with the diamond cut 6'btdc turned the key and it fired up on the button, then i turned it off, went to fire it up again and it wouldn't fire up at all but the plugs were wet when checked  through out the day i have changed the metering head,.coil,.ecu, tci but nothing, there is a spark, and if the throttle is held right open and the distributor is turned almost fully clockwise its like it misfires, as if the the leads are on in the wrong order


why would it start fine from cold?
why would the plugs get  from the engine only turning over 3 or 4 times .i have to remove the fuel pump relay and try to fire it up to clear it!

the static timing is spot on

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Where is your No1 plug lead at when you set it up, is it pointing to No1 cylinder, nearest cambelt ? Firing order 1-3-4-2

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yes, notch on dizzy body lined up with rotor arm and plug leads correct, because of the over fueling i just disconnected the csv and tested it, seems it's on all the time whilst cranking, this will account for flooding the bores each time i turn it over !
tried it disconnected and it fired each time, just ran poorly and lumpy, got a new csv being delivered this morning, if that cures the fueling it will be just getting it to run smoothly

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look to the right of the diamond there should be a small punch mark in the flywheel, unless its an aftermarket jobber. this is what it should look like:


make sure you have the right dizzy, and that its genuine vw/bosh. the cheap pattern ones are rubbish. then it needs to be set roughly to tdc and once warm adjust it with a timing gun so that the diamond mark lines up at idle.

in fact before i babble on too much read this thread :lol:
http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=25972&

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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cheers for that, my flywheel doesn't have the punch mark, the Dizzy is brand new bosch.

I have a couple of issue stopping me progressing, it appears the Thermo Time Switch is continually passing a current which means the 5th injector is pumping fuel all the time, this caused huge problems when it wouldn't fire (due to naff plugs) as it flooded the barrels each time ! New pugs in and it fires an runs except now the oil pressure light is steadily flashing all the time, seeing as the last engine was damaged due to an oil pump issue I'm dubious to ignore the flashing light! The oil pump is new this time.

I've searched for 'oil light flashing' and it appears a lot of other people have also had this, but of all the threads i've read nobody has posted a solution or a cause ? :ocf_emoticons__BangHead:

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did you prime the pump with oil before you fitted it? if not it can struggle to pick up. i pour a bit in the top till it overflows then spin it by hand with the pickup submerged, once it pumps oil out the top fit it and the sump quickly and you should be good to go.

another tip is prime it then fill the end of the pickup with Vaseline so it cant drain out again, then you can take your time reassembling

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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kinda… I ran some oil through it from top to the filter to make sure it was clear and unobstructed, then bolted it up but it was some time before i filled the sump, this damn engine has had about 20 liters of oil poured down it so far, most got contaminated with petrol due to the Thermo switch issue, i think i'll put a pressure gauge in the temp sensor at the top of the block, if that has pressure then surely it must be good to go ? and just needs to be run up for a while to pressurize the system, its only been run for about 3 seconds before i killed it because of the flashing light  ?

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yeah that would be a good next step, confirm if the pressure really is low

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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trouble is i need to run it to test the pressure, catch 22...

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OMFG… just been trawling about the net looking at stuff and thought, what if the sensors i have in the oil cooler are the wrong ratings ? i currently have a blue one next to the block and a green one next to the radiator, all the other ones i've seen in images are Brown and White and i'm assuming they dont make different colours to be pretty……

EDIT:

Blue:  0.15-0.35bar
White 1.6-2.0bar
Grey: 0.75-1.05bar
Brown or black: 0.15-0.43bar

cant even find ratings for a green one yet LOL

found it - Green 0.3-0.6bar :ocf_emoticons__BangHead::ocf_emoticons__BangHead::ocf_emoticon
s__BangHead:

Last edit: by unityjon

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green isnt a factory colour, probably aftermarket. you should have a brown/blue 0.3 bar and a white 1.8bar

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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replaced the green switch with a white VW part but it still flashes  :P

On the otherhand the car now starts and runs and sounds sweet as a nut !! really healthy but the thermo time switch is still broke (stuck closed) so it tends to over-fuel and the ignition timing is still very slightly out but i have run out of twist with the dizzy, its a slight posibility its spot on but hunting due to vacuum leak so i will test this first with some cold start sprayed over every connection to see if it sorts it, if not i'll re-notch the dizzy body to put the cap further around allowing much more range.


With the oil pressure light flashing, there are lots f threads on these boards with the same issue but none of them have a resolution ???  :dry:

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check you have them the right way round, brown/blue switch should be on side of head, white on filter housing. the light flashing at idle is controlled by the one in the side of the head btw

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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i want to say sorry as im one person that has asked this question also….
but i can help that much as a friend sorted mine for me as it was a wiring fault on mine when he adapted the mk1 loom to the abf loom…
will speak to him later and see if he can shed some light for you, but rubjonny is your best bet..
sorry again
adrian

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thats cool, Teh blue switch is a replacement for the original brown switch and 'believed to be good'  :(

Adie666 that would be cool as i'm certain it is a wiring issue, i have continuity on all the wires and through the fuse box though  :ninja:

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ah if its a 16v then both pressure switches should be on the filter housing, confusingly the wire colours changed mk1 to mk2!

mk1 its blue/black on white switch, yellow on brown or blue. mk2 its opposite! try switchign wires over see if that sorts it, and as i say check ratings white is 1.8 bar, blue/brown is 0.3bar. have to take em out though to read the markings

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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as for the thermo time switch i've done soem digging and found that they're called different things by different people, thermo time, cold start switch, cold start sensor etc..

they're also used by many makes so the VW part no. cross matches Bosch and gives all these options:

BMW    13 62 1 357 415
BMW    13 62 1 274 631
FERRARI    118790
FORD    V86SF 11N055 AA
FORD    1651725
ROLLS-ROYCE    UE 40710
VW (VOLKSWAGEN)    034 906 163
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