DX to ABF conversion wiring

ive looked through that and see the wiring diagram, but I cant tell which white is what on my probe itself?any idea or a picture which white is 1 or 2 respectively

cheers

white wires can go either way round, as can the grey and black really

right, that's sorted then! cheers

Hi all,

almost done with the wiring, just a quick question about the ignition coil. Iv done all the splicing as per the thread, its just that I am missing the red and black wire for some reason it was cut from the mk1 loom. i have these 2 wires left:



Would someone be able to tell me where the red and black should go.
Also below I have labeled up the ignition coil as I am unsure what goes where, obviously 6 is to the dizzy. But would someone be able to help with the others.



Thanks

you should have 2 black wires to coil + side (3 4 5) 1 from fusebox D/23 to power it and another from the tci unit. the -ve side has 1 wire from tci unit and another from the fusebox pin D/26

Cheers John.

One more question, the connector on the starter motor (thick red wire) goes to F1 on the ABF fusebox end. Can i use this instead of the mk1 setup? where will it connect to on the MK1 fusebox?

Thanks

Cheers John.

One more question, the connector on the starter motor (thick red wire) goes to F1 on the ABF fusebox end. Can i use this instead of the mk1 setup? where will it connect to on the MK1 fusebox?

Thanks

it will go to the same pin the old mk1 red/black wire goes to, unless you have new terminals and crimping tool you'll have to splice the wire which is tricky to solder.

best thing to do is strip a good length of insulation then twist the 2 ends together to make a good strong mechanical joint, then fill it with solder. you'll need a good soldering iron as it takes a lot of heat to get the chunky wires hot enough to accept solder!

do it towards the fusebox end, as the engine bay end will be full of dirt and oil which will make it even more difficult to solder. try to put it in a straight run as you'll loose a bit of flex once the joint is soldered

I attempted my first turn over today, fuel pump primed and starter kicked in but no start.

checked the spark but nothing. Iv wired up the coil as above. The red and black wire that goes to D/26 is also connected to a relay holder, what is this relay for?

Do you have any suggestions on what next to check?

thanks

on the later kjet cars there is an idle relay above the fusebox this is what the red/black wire is for, pull the relay from this socket you no longer need it.  does the rev counter jiggle at least when cranking over?

Cheers john sorted the relay.

No the rev counter does not jiggle .

Just a quick side question, does the fuel pump live connect to E/14?

Thanks

Craig

ok this would suggest the crank sensor is faulty or the ecu is not powering up properly, or perhaps the coil wiring isnt quite right.

yes the fuel pump, injectors and lambda heater wire all need to go to E/14. factory CE1 you have 2 wires from the same pin, 1 goes straight to the fuel pump the other goes to a male spade, then uyou crimp your injector and lambda heater wires into a female spade and plug it in

Ok Ill check the power to the ECU, as i think it will most likely be that seeing as iv done the wiring haha.

Which wire is for the injectors as I only have the lambda and fuel pump connected to E/14. Also should this get power when turning the ignition as there is nothing when I connect the multimeter. I can feel relay 167 click.

Thanks again

its the red wire from the thick-ish round plug on the engine back to the fusebox, in the mk3 it had a massive yellow spade plug on it

Looked yesterday and I had already connected the injectors just didnt realise E/14 split.

I also noticed that fuse 5 was broken so swopped that and E/14 iss now getting power, however it was getting power even if ignition was off. Would you think this is a relay sticking?

The fuel pump is on a kill switch so tried to start it and it fired but then stopped. it would do this on every attempt.

I think it could possible to do with the immobiliser. I have connected the black box and halo to the loom and currently the SEAT key is tapped to the halo.
Any suggestions?

ok if e/14 is always on even ign off something isnt right with your wiring, try unplugging the E/14 spade see if that stops it. if it does you have put a permanent live into the e/14 spade in the engien loom somewhere.

as for immobiliser, get diagnostics working! scan ecu and immobiliser box. this will tell you if it is the immob, and scannign immob will tell you why

It started up last night

just connect the dia port, didnt realise that this needed to be fitted.

Thanks for the help John

diagnostics port doesnt need to be fitted for it to run, but whatever it works

Hi again,

not had much time recently to play with the golf came to it this week and it would not start, ignition would come on but upon turning over nothing would happen apart from relays clicking. checked obvious things like battery and everything was ok.

i then checked the signal to the starter and noticed that no voltage went thought it when turning over. i traced this wire back to connector D and was connected fine. I then checked whether power was getting to the pin which it wasn't.

it is possible to start the car with the ignition on and power fed straight to the starter signal wire.

also swapped relay 19.

can you recommended anything? missing an earth? or dodgy fusebox circuitry?

check the ignition switch first, unplug it and bridge the red wire to the red/black and the starter should crank. if it does you need a new switch, if not trace the red/black wire back to the fusebox looking for damage or dodgy splicing for an alarm/immobiliser