Rubber hose and clips

Hi

Can someone kindly direct me where to buy the rubber hose from the expansion tank to the car radiator and the clips required to tighten them? (It's a standard 1.8 carb)

Thanks

I got fuel hose and clips from eurocar parts for mine a few weeks back when in needed some. Just eBay fuel hose and buy a few feet as needed. Jubilee clips are from anywhere you want really. Can't remember the bore size think it was 5/16 of an inch but not sure and it is raining hard outside so won't be lifting the bonnet tonight.


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There seems to be a few braking at mo and I'm sure they are same as gti ones


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Fuel rated hose isn't the same as Coolant or heater hose.

5/16 sounds right, but stay away from Screw Type of clamps and stay with Fuel hose clamps as they tighten circumferentially,

Also I have found that the addition of a 90 degree Brass Barbed fitting on the radiator end tends to increase the hose durability.

Briano1234 said

Fuel rated hose isn't the same as Coolant or heater hose.

5/16 sounds right, but stay away from Screw Type of clamps and stay with Fuel hose clamps as they tighten circumferentially,

Also I have found that the addition of a 90 degree Brass Barbed fitting on the radiator end tends to increase the hose durability.

Hey Briano1234

Do you recommend something like this…

http://m.ebay.com/itm/122294673870?_mwBanner=1

If so, if I connect the rubber hose to this, would I need to tighten the hose to it ie like a clamp or would it screw on? I have coolant leaking on this, I have tighten it previously and in the short term it worked however there seems to be some signs of coolant leaking on the radiator.

If you have some movement in the old hose, remove the hose at the rad end and cut a small section off as they usually crack at the end.

The leak could be from the plastic end sticking out of the radiator as that's where mine broke.

If you look at briano1234 picture he has a short section of rubber hose from the end of the radiator to the brass elbow then the coolant hose from the elbow to the header tank.

After 30 some years of plastic parts on the cooling systems, I have some gimmies.

The radiator returns to the Expansion jugs become brittle with age and will break from Torque shear of the hose at a angle and vibration of the hose on the plastic nipple.

That hose when connected as the factory did it has a evil bend that places the strain on the hose at the 45 degree to 90 degree bend.

I sort of eliminated it by making the hose longer, and looping it around my power steering res to be more of a straight line to it.

Yes in the Picture I have the "evil" screw clamps on the Brass 90, but have since replaced those with Fuel Line clamps, as the Screw type will not fully close in a circle but actually have a flat spot where the screw clamp part is, and is more prone to leaking under the screw part.

Fuel type clamps tighten the hose equally around the diameter as the clamp bolt is above the hose and not laying on the hose.

I did the 90 degree barbed fitting because the weight of the hose and vibration is now transferred to the barb connection, and not the radiator nipple.

Using the Screw type of clamp on that nipple can Crush it and break it more so on older radiators than newer plastic.

I have also found that the plastic barbed fitting on the lower heater hose connection where it comes out of the cabin firewall to get weak, and leak, and I strongly urge you to replace that one with Brass as well…

Why because I didn't know I crushed my Barbed fitting (plastic) when I replaced my heater hoses when I replaced my heater core, and I was stranded because of that "evil" plastic part breaking on me 14 miles from home dumping all my coolant.

The Difference between a older return port (expansion nipples) on some cars is that they have 2 styles of jugs on the cars.
Some as in VW's are under pressure all the time, so you can't really repair them when they crack or break.

Some as in Honda's, and the like are at Atmospheric pressure or actually the return jug is open to Atmosphere, so the return line isn't under pressure.  You can repair those pretty easily with Glue and get a new radiator later.  I have repaired those with JB-Weld (epoxy) and a inner hose effectively which lasted about a year or so.

A VW plastic/aluminum radiator is a time bomb that will go south on you.  The original hard mount at the bottom of the tanks to the "C" clippy at the top could allow the radiator to vibrate at the top and eventually as I found out split the Tanks off the Core….. The pin mounts at the bottom and the Hard brackets at the top on later ones tended to eliminate this vibration, but then transfered that vibration to the outlet flanges of the radiator upper connection, and in the case of my 90's Cabriolets the upper water outlet flange on the head which I replaced about every 6 months…Till I figured out how to replace that evil outlet flange with a Metal one…. Back in 81/82 when my original VW radiator split up the seams, and 15 miles out of warranty, VW wouldn't replace it under warranty (I picked my car up with 100 miles on the odo) to which VW would give me a new one at cost 140.00usd.  I found a brass/copper one for 108 instead, and that one lasted for the next 19 years I owned my diesel.

I have found that they make a solid Aluminum Radiator now…I will upgrade that when the time comes as it is about the same cost as the plastic/aluminum ones.

Lastly, if your t-stat cover is plastic, when you go to replace your t-stat, also buy a t-stat cover, as the older plastic ones warp and leak….I have one that has a flat side on it internally instead of being a perfect circle internally.

Again on my 90's I found a company selling metal ones, and ordered 2, after finding this I mentioned it in a couple of forums, and they sold out with in 2 months…and these metal ones are NLA….which is such a pitty.

I take a different look at things when they break on me repeatedly…. for no fault of my own (being heavy handed and over tightening)..or Dropping a wrench or screw driver and poking a hole….

I try to make it "more" better so it can last longer between repairs.

Hope this helps, and for the 5/16 brass barbed fitting, I got it at a local to me auto store…..