Oil Pressure Sensor Problems/Metallic Rattle Sound after Rebuild
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Cabrio GTi rebuild with Piper Cam
My 1985 GTi Cabriolet needed new injectors, but as this resulted in some sheared head bolts I went for an engine rebuild with new piston rings, mild piper cam and 4-2-1 exhaust as the manifold was cracked, however:
1) The oil pressure sensor starts to buzz until the coolant temperature is up to temperature. The light also blinks when the ignition key goes on and doesn't remain on until the engine is cranked. I have seen posts about the earthing to the side of the MAF.
2) There is a metallic rattle which sounds like a heat shield but isn't when the car hits about 2500-3500 revs and only when under load. It sounds like it is low and to the back of the engine but this is could be misleading. Again lots of posts online, but yet to find a cause or solution.
3) The vernier pulley didn't want to line up correctly or wouldn't start when it did, so the old cambelt pulley is on at the original position. Car runs well on idle or low revs, except for pulling away.
Not sure if these are all related? They seem like reoccurring issues and I only seem to have a solution to the oil pressure sensor, but will replace the low and high sensors once I can source part numbers as an electrical test on the high pressure sensor is not getting any voltage, before I have the dash out.
Thanks, as always, for any help or suggestions.
Posted
Local Hero
Oil pressure probably is a Broken sender wire
Rattles well the 4-2-to dual down pipe may have changed the alignment of your pipes, and now they are hitting the heat shield as your hangers may have broken or weakened. So a inspection is needed and any close proximities have to be adjusted. I know that when I changed I had to modify, as in beat, pound and adjust things a wee bit to keep the rattles at bay, and a vibrating front heat shield can have the noise travel down the pipes and sound like somewheres else.
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They all start with GOOD Grounds.
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Local Hero
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T25 Diesel…sameoldblueshiŁ (currently under resto)
Rocco gt2….1990 secret 2…(currently under resto)
Mk4 99 1.8t indigo blue Gti with 43k miles
Caster 93 clipper JH Green cabby
Snowy 91 GTi White cabby( sat waiting for inspiration)
Myvalver 89 GTi Grey mk2 16v
Yuppy Flu 91 GTi Flash Red Sportline
Golf mk1 owner's club on Spotify
Mk1 golf owners club playlist: Golf mk1 owner's club playlist - YouTube
T25 Diesel…sameoldblueshiŁ (currently under resto)
Rocco gt2….1990 secret 2…(currently under resto)
Mk4 99 1.8t indigo blue Gti with 43k miles
Caster 93 clipper JH Green cabby
Snowy 91 GTi White cabby( sat waiting for inspiration)
Myvalver 89 GTi Grey mk2 16v
Yuppy Flu 91 GTi Flash Red Sportline
Golf mk1 owner's club on Spotify
Mk1 golf owners club playlist: Golf mk1 owner's club playlist - YouTube
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Old Timer
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Local Hero
By the book standard timing set up is for super unleaded petrol, the timing needs to be retarded if you use normal unleaded petrol.
I found my car runs best on super unleaded petrol.
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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Local Hero
If it's full then drive it carefully and avoid hard acceleration, use up the petrol and stick in some super unleaded. .
You might be lucky and this could be the simple fix?
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
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