MK1 Rabbit - Ticking Noise When Clutch Depressed

Greetings all!

Currently my 1981 VW Rabbit 1.7L has a rapid "ticking" noise whenever I press the clutch pedal in. I did a variety of repairs last weekend but the sound didn't arrive until about the third time I started up the car. I'll list the repairs below:

- New top fill radiator, fluid, and hoses
- New oil pan, filter, pan plug, and oil

*Note* The new oil pan had a little too much metal around the two screw holes next to the transmission so I had to trim those back with an angle grinder to get the pan to align.

Put everything back together, started up great, ran great, cycled cooling fan, no issues. Started it up later, pressed in the clutch, then a rapid ticking came out of nowhere.

Next my research led me to think I needed a new throw out/clutch release bearing and/or a new clutch cable. To be safe, I replaced both the bearing and the clutch cable (along with all the new rubber grommets and such). I also changed the transmission fluid while I was in there.

*Note* There were NO metal shavings in the transmission that I could find. Just old oil and a bit of gunk.

Put it all back together and the ticking persists. It doesn't even sound bad, just annoying to hear every time I press in the clutch pedal. I'm sufficiently stumped so any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

*I'll also update this thread with any solutions/news on the issue.

Check your tin covers as in the pne to the left or on the rear of the engine, and then press the lower one tight to see if the ticking is gone.

Hi Briano, thanks so much for your reply!

I'm not sure what "pne" is. Are you talking about the big cover between the transmission and the oil pan?

I did put a brand new green cap on when replacing the throw out bearing, so that's not it.

PNE is one.  Sorry.  

The tin plates that keep the road debris out of the clutch,  There is the lower cover, and the main cover with side plate on the rear.  I have had them contact the cover of the bellhousing and one dented so that occasionally it would hit the flywheel.



If I read your post, you knocked down the rear seal carrier.

*Note* The new oil pan had a little too much metal around the two screw holes next to the transmission so I had to trim those back with an angle grinder to get the pan to align.

You may have ground it down to where the alignment of the pan is off, those last two screws are best started by hand with a short 10mm and a flex screwdriver handle to validate that you didn't strip them. Once they are started about 6 -to 7 turns then fully tighten to 79 in/lbs and no more, other wise you strip them, and for those specific two and the two in front copper grease them as steel into aluminum is prone to corrosion.