So today I learnt . .

So todays task was to think about fitting my new manifold or at least remove the old one.

Started off odd as I needed to drive the car into some low ramps to get the jack underneath.

No big deal normally but I have no interior at the moment as its gone for a retrim so had to sit on the floor and drive blind, I'm tall but not that tall

Then removed the C clips off the down pipe and slid it out the way

So the manifold from underneath, first stud on left replaced with a bolt! Middle two present then far right nothing at all, I hope anyway otherwise it means there is a snapped stud in the head!

After figuring (and reading after searching on here) that I was best off removing the inlet first I set about removing the inlet bolts.

First one was only finger tight and second came out just as easy. Then the task of actually locating the bolts started and thats before fabricating combinations of tools to actually undo them.

After about 4 hours of on and off attempts I have all 6 inlet bolts removed, I have pretty much no skin left on my hands or my wrists and I haven't even looked at the exhaust manifold yet.

I have doused them in PB blaster which I have no ran out of so decided to drive to the only place I know which sells in off the shelves.
My BMW felt oddly sluggish and the horrendous burning smell and red hot front brake disc soon told me why.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get the inlet far enough out of the way to get the exhaust manifold as I really dont want to completely remove it if I can help it

The moral of this story is sometimes you probably are just paying someone else to do some bits

.

If you can fit some new studs if they look old or rusty and new nuts are a must for the exhaust manifold.

I've never needed to remove the inlet manifold but probably a good job you had a go at it as who ever was there before did not do up the bolts, make sure the inlet manifold bolts are good and no one has rounded off the alley key head if they have buy some new bolts.

You will need to remove the anti roll bar to get a 4,2,1 manifold in the engine bay…

How much rusty bits of metal fell onto your face (eye protection is needed) or how many times did you drop the socket when working at the back of the engine with your hands in the air…. not a easy position to work on the car. 

We never learn, I decided my Mk1 Escort needed new valve springs last week, I'm getting bounce and popping at the (very) top end, but the car still runs well, the engine was built by my son 17yrs ago when he was 17. Took the head off and found this. Frost crack I would suspect, from its 11yrs in storage. Boo.

I've got a new set of studs and copper nuts lined up as well as both sets of gaskets.

I've been busy heat wrapping the manifold in the living room while she watched brain numbing programmes on the box.

Apparently torque settings for both inlet and exhaust bolts / nuts is only 18nm anyway but I think mine were more like 5, I'm kind of hoping the exhaust ones are equally as loose though.

Anyone know if the inlet can just be jiggled out the way without removing in its entirety?  

WATERNAIR said

I've been busy heat wrapping the manifold in the living room while she watched brain numbing programmes on the box.

Be careful with the heat wrap as it's glass fiber and gets every where and it's rather ichey when it gets on your skin, I had gloves and overalls on when wrapping my exhaust.

 

Wish I'd read this before, have 1000's of tiny pieces of titanium in my skin now and its not comfy

One less thought, after snapping a few Exhaust Studs when trying to remove them with my Breaker Bar…..
Remember these two words… Torque Shear

Spray the Studs and nuts with your favorite penetrant oil 1 week prior daily.

Spray them 20 minutes before starting.
Spray them right before, and if you can start your car and warm them up for a couple of minutes.

Use a 6pt 12mm(IIRC) socket and an IMPACT Wrench low profile…. It hammers and torques only the nut…

This usually stops them from breaking.


Going back I have found that Stainless Steel studs with the Allen or Nut driver ends are easier to install and or later remove.  Plenty of Never-Seize on the Studs and nuts.  

Over here I can use the same studs that a 1995 Saturn SL1 uses… They are also a tad longer, I still used the copper nuts but they are totally easier to install.



IIRC when I used a pacesetter header on my 1990 Cabriolet I had to grind it a wee bit at the top to get the
intake manifold to seat IIRC it was on the left side of the engine ok, my left LHD….as you are looking at it from the bottom of the car.

I think any that stay in that are useable I'll leave in.
Any that come out of their own accord I'll replace, its not a job I intend on doing frequently.

Briano1234 any chance you can send some decent weather over here so I can actually attempt the job

Do it in cold weather it hits less with numb hands.

I would recommend changing all the studs as you be really hacked off if they worked loose after fitting a couple of new ones. But I also get the point. If they are hard to reach or risk of sheering sometimes best to be left alone.


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WATERNAIR said

Briano1234 any chance you can send some decent weather over here so I can actually attempt the job

I have drywalled (plasterboard) houses in the cold winter in my youth, and didn't notice my hammered thumb until it warmed up in the Tavern for lunch..Then after a pitcher of frothy brew I didn't care anyways.  I have pulled Engines and transmissions in the cold rain/snow/sleet with no cover save for plastic sheathing Draped over the engine hoist and hood area.

I have replaced Helicopters rear propeller transmission on 10-15 foot of snow covered Tundra, I think I will take all the heat that the South can generate and use my garage that I can get up to 80 degrees with my 2000 watts of Quartz Halogen lights.  

Besides is it supposed to get to 32F here tonight.

Right getting there, support bracket is off and most of the hoses to the inlet.
Apart from the throttle body what else needs to come off to remove the inlet completely?

Im considering doing the Audi 2.2 throttle body and 16wur mod as its all coming off anyway.

I know I need a 16v gasket on the throttle body side but does the wur have a gasket?

Apologies if this doesn't make sense, ive accidently swallowed quite a bit of pb blaster today

The WUR is just bolted onto the engine block so no gasket needed as the heat from the engine block makes the WUR work, you only need gaskets if taking it apart.
You may need some little copper washers for the fuel lines which go into the WUR, they are 2 different sizes..

You can leave the throttle body attached to the inlet manifold and just remove the rubber boot. 5th injector needs to be removed, AAV needs some pipes removed, I think that’s it???

How do you actually get the throttle cable off the body?

WATERNAIR said

Apologies if this doesn't make sense, ive accidently swallowed quite a bit of pb blaster today

Tastes better than ATF.

WATERNAIR said

How do you actually get the throttle cable off the body?

There is a metal cover over the end of the cable, if you push that towards the bulk head it should slide off leaving the plastic end of the cable which you lift off from the ball joint.

The metal clips looks like this..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Accelerator-Cable-Fitting-Clip-VW-Golf-MK1-MK2-MK3-GENUINE-VW/182148136016?hash=item2a68dffc50:g:n3AAAOSwSdZWcvqA:rk:3:pf:0

Easy when you know how . . . and its off