Rust Bullet, Any tried it?
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Rust Bullet, Any tried it?
Hey guys. Thinking about using this product on some of the harder to reach areas.
http://rustbullet.com/HowItWorks.htm
Anybody tried it? Its supposed to be the best stuff designed for use on military aircraft etc.
http://rustbullet.com/HowItWorks.htm
Anybody tried it? Its supposed to be the best stuff designed for use on military aircraft etc.
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There are cheaper products on the market from the like's of Homepage - Frost Auto Restoration Techniques , and even Finnegans NO1 Brown which has been on the go for years and does a fantastic job on bare rust .
Do you rearly need to spend that much money when other products will do the same job :dontknow:
Personally i would only use what has been recommended by others or use products you trust yourself .
So i have to say no i havn't used it and would recommend Finnegans NO1 Brown primer or Davids zinc rich primer on hard to reach places . Top coating with a suitable paint or underseal / Wax .
Cheers…………
Do you rearly need to spend that much money when other products will do the same job :dontknow:
Personally i would only use what has been recommended by others or use products you trust yourself .
So i have to say no i havn't used it and would recommend Finnegans NO1 Brown primer or Davids zinc rich primer on hard to reach places . Top coating with a suitable paint or underseal / Wax .
Cheers…………
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You won't be able to get rust bullet unfortunately tried to get it in 2003 and they won't send it… it is a hazardous material!
best i would go for is Bilt Hamber - deox C gel - brush it on the rusty patch leave for 24hrs and wash off - no rust at all left - then epoxy mastic on it. its the best honest!
best i would go for is Bilt Hamber - deox C gel - brush it on the rusty patch leave for 24hrs and wash off - no rust at all left - then epoxy mastic on it. its the best honest!
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They have a UK vendor now. Will see. Thanks for the advice.
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Old Timer
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Best way to remove rust is by sandblasting or chopping the pannel out and welding new metal in.
The way we do all the "proper" restorations is to take the car back to a bare metal shell, chop out and weld up all the rust then (and only then) send it to the blasters to be sandblasted. Then when what's left comes back, weld up all the new holes that have appeared and lead load them ready for paint.
If this brush on stuff really worked, no one would ever weld anything up would they? I'd rather hit the tree/lamp post/other car knowing that at least the shell was sound rather than worrying about where the covered up rot is!!
The way we do all the "proper" restorations is to take the car back to a bare metal shell, chop out and weld up all the rust then (and only then) send it to the blasters to be sandblasted. Then when what's left comes back, weld up all the new holes that have appeared and lead load them ready for paint.
If this brush on stuff really worked, no one would ever weld anything up would they? I'd rather hit the tree/lamp post/other car knowing that at least the shell was sound rather than worrying about where the covered up rot is!!
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Old Timer
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of course - if its in holes then new metal is needed…
i had no holes or rust on my floor pan but i used the best treatments i could find to ensure further long life of the metal..
if the steel is pitted heavily or right through then you cant avoid welding in new steel.
i had no holes or rust on my floor pan but i used the best treatments i could find to ensure further long life of the metal..
if the steel is pitted heavily or right through then you cant avoid welding in new steel.
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Yea, am cutting away bad rust anyway. What about POR15? anyone try that? Here that its great too. Opinions? Thanks.
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