New head fitted but still sounds like a diesel :o(
Posted
#1044664
(In Topic #124679)
Settling In
New head fitted but still sounds like a diesel :o(
Hi guys, (1990 Golf 1.8 8v GTI Cabby) hope someone can help, my head was cracked so I got it replaced with a full reconditioned one, it come complete with cam valves etc… I did have really noisy tappets before hand so I was quite excited when it was replaced thinking this would cure the noise, but to my horror it's just as noisy as before, I'm not sure what oil the garage who done the job put in but do you think it's worth changing it ? or do think it could be something else. The car does sound like a diesel it's not as bad once it's warmed up but still noisy. I bought the head from a company advertised on ebay which had the following :-
PRESSURE TESTED & SKIMMED
CLEANSING DIPPED
HEAD PRESSURE TESTED TO 80 psi
VALVE GUIDES CHECKED AND REPLACED IF REQUIRED
VALVES REFACED OR REPLACED IF NECESSARY
VALVES SEATS REFACED AND VACUUM TESTED
HEAD REFACED BY THE MINIMUM AMOUNT
ALL PARTS CLEANED AND ASSEMBLED WITH NEW SEALS
Any help or advice would be great, thanks guys
PRESSURE TESTED & SKIMMED
CLEANSING DIPPED
HEAD PRESSURE TESTED TO 80 psi
VALVE GUIDES CHECKED AND REPLACED IF REQUIRED
VALVES REFACED OR REPLACED IF NECESSARY
VALVES SEATS REFACED AND VACUUM TESTED
HEAD REFACED BY THE MINIMUM AMOUNT
ALL PARTS CLEANED AND ASSEMBLED WITH NEW SEALS
Any help or advice would be great, thanks guys
Posted
Old Timer
big end bearings , exhaust gasket , timing :dontknow:
you should maybe post a vid on you-tube so the very helpfull people on this site can help you more
cheers
baz
you should maybe post a vid on you-tube so the very helpfull people on this site can help you more
cheers
baz
Posted
Settling In
Cheers for the reply mate, I'll get it done tomorrow then post the link on here.
Regards
Regards
Posted
Old Timer
hydraulic tappets ? perhaps they need replacing although they don't often give trouble,or you might have an early type head with shims which need sorting out,just a thought hope you can get it sorted out mate.
Posted
Settling In
Ok lad's I've now got a clip so you can see what I mean, just click the youtube link below
Let me know you thoughts if you can make it out ok.
Cheers lads.
YouTube (Golf GTI 1.8 8v)
Let me know you thoughts if you can make it out ok.
Cheers lads.
YouTube (Golf GTI 1.8 8v)
Posted
Old Timer
Sounds like the cam box,,is the oil splash guard the right way around ? could be hitting the cam. or perhaps the sump hitting the big end caps dent in sump has it sliped off of a jack or been jacked up on the sump by mistake.
Posted
Settling In
Hi mate, I did think it was the oil splash guard but I'm not that hot when it comes to stripping engines etc….,will it cause any damage if I remove it and try it without it on? as for the sump I removed it to replace the gasket last month and it has no damage. Let me know if it's possible to try it without the oil splash guard.
Cheers bud.
Cheers bud.
Posted
Old Timer
Hi bud
My cam has no splash gaurd ,or did my other gti 17 years ago , wonder what the benefits are & what year they started putting them in? . Is the engine Cold?
cheers
baz.
My cam has no splash gaurd ,or did my other gti 17 years ago , wonder what the benefits are & what year they started putting them in? . Is the engine Cold?
cheers
baz.
Posted
Settling In
Only in the winter… lol….Seriously mate I've no idea what you mean by a cold engine can you please elaborate I'm a bit think when it comes to engine lingo /
So are you saying it'll be ok to remove the splash guard?
Cheers bud
So are you saying it'll be ok to remove the splash guard?
Cheers bud
Posted
Old Timer
Grolly said
Only in the winter… lol….Seriously mate I've no idea what you mean by a cold engine can you please elaborate I'm a bit think when it comes to engine lingo /
So are you saying it'll be ok to remove the splash guard?
Cheers bud
Yes to prove the its not the problem , but vw must have installed it for a reason at a later date so i wouldnt recommend permantly removing it.Might be the wrong way round as allready suggested
cheers
baz
Posted
Settled In
Are the tappets hydros?
If so did you replace them?
If its not a hydro head, did you check the valve clearances?
Does sound like excessive valve clearances to me, but theres something else there thats clacking under accelration…..
If so did you replace them?
If its not a hydro head, did you check the valve clearances?
Does sound like excessive valve clearances to me, but theres something else there thats clacking under accelration…..
Posted
Settling In
Me again I've removed the oil splash guard and let it arm up, there is still a slight tapping but to be honest not that bad, but when you drive it…ie put your foot down it does sound like pinking.. is this the timing ? if it would better in another clip then I'll post one, it does drive fine tho.
Posted
Old Timer
I have just had a listen again , sounds really rough when starting
Are you sure that motor is running on all cylinders - put a pair of insulated gloves on & pull the HT leads one by one.
baz
Are you sure that motor is running on all cylinders - put a pair of insulated gloves on & pull the HT leads one by one.
baz
Posted
Old Timer
After listening to it again I was wondering if the cam timing is one or two teeth out and the valves are touching the top of the pistons ?
Posted
Settled In
baller said
After listening to it again I was wondering if the cam timing is one or two teeth out and the valves are touching the top of the pistons ?
As above, another possibility, cam timing check needed!
Posted
Settling In
I think your probably correct about the timing, the mechanic who fitted the head had problems with the timing and had to do it the "old way" what ever that means! but the problem is I live in newcastle and I don't know anyone up here who know the in's and out's of a GOLF MK1 GTI, so if there is anyone in the area who knows their stuff I'd be greatfull for some help.
Many Thanks lad's
Many Thanks lad's
Posted
Old Timer
Hi bud the basics behind checking the timing . eg the bottem end ( block/pistons ) & the top ( head ) is not that hard to check , adjusting is a bit more difficult but checking is relativly easy.
baz
will update later if no-one else does
cheers
baz
will update later if no-one else does
cheers
Posted
Settling In
cheers bud, am a little pissed off and down at the minute with it, only bought it 4 months ago it was off the road for a month when the gasget/head had a crack and up to now i've spent 550 quid and it's still not rite so any advice is some hope.
cheers mate
cheers mate
Posted
Old Timer
Hi
The basics are - you set the timing to fire at TDC on no.1 cylinder.
Unscrew the green plug on the gearbox - use a torch & you will see a arrow
Take the top timing belt cover off.
Take the plugs out / mark the leads from left to right - timing belt end is the left (this will make it ver y easy to turn the engine over manually )
Use a socket on the bottom crankshaft pulley to manually turn the engine round (clockwise)until the arrow on gearbox points towards the the flywheel timing mark .when you see the timing mark shine a torch down the bore just to confirm the piston is at TDC
Then look at the camshaft pulley which should have a dot on-it(on the side next to the engine) , this dot should be level with the top of the rocker cover & by taking the rocker cover of you will see the Lobes for No.1 cylinder are in the closed position
Also remove the distributer cap & the rotor arm should be pointing towards No.1 ht lead , there is a notch on the distributer as well to indicate No.1 cylinder .
Maybe sounds a bit complicated but it's not
Cheers
Baz
PS make sure it is firing 1-3-4-2 as well eg check the ht leads are connected this way
Maybe take some photos when you have the engine in this TDC position for the forum guys to help EG camshaft position, distributer position& Flywheel timing mark.
The basics are - you set the timing to fire at TDC on no.1 cylinder.
Unscrew the green plug on the gearbox - use a torch & you will see a arrow
Take the top timing belt cover off.
Take the plugs out / mark the leads from left to right - timing belt end is the left (this will make it ver y easy to turn the engine over manually )
Use a socket on the bottom crankshaft pulley to manually turn the engine round (clockwise)until the arrow on gearbox points towards the the flywheel timing mark .when you see the timing mark shine a torch down the bore just to confirm the piston is at TDC
Then look at the camshaft pulley which should have a dot on-it(on the side next to the engine) , this dot should be level with the top of the rocker cover & by taking the rocker cover of you will see the Lobes for No.1 cylinder are in the closed position
Also remove the distributer cap & the rotor arm should be pointing towards No.1 ht lead , there is a notch on the distributer as well to indicate No.1 cylinder .
Maybe sounds a bit complicated but it's not
Cheers
Baz
PS make sure it is firing 1-3-4-2 as well eg check the ht leads are connected this way
Maybe take some photos when you have the engine in this TDC position for the forum guys to help EG camshaft position, distributer position& Flywheel timing mark.
Posted
Settling In
cheers mate, you've been very helpful, i'll see if i can look 2nite if not it'll be the weekend thanks again bud
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