Loss Of POwer Whilst Driving! MK1 Cab, Help Please?

Ive got an E Reg MK1 1800 Cab.

Ive recently stripped down and cleaned the carb, and changed the fuel filter, as i was having the common fuel stuttering/kangarooing problems.

Its been driving ok since doing this. At slow speeds it potters about nice enough, but when you put your foot down and come off the juice, it loses power, the revs drop, and it cuts out.

Any ideas?

Check inside the tank for rust which may well be blocking the fuel supply - lots of info on here on this problem

i have a weber on mine and have got the same problem, what can we do :dontknow:

as soon as i go on the dual carriageway, i put the foot down after about a minute or so it just looses all power and cuts out, then it wont start easy and when it does start it dies again, i thought it was the carb but ive just put a weber on it but have the same problem,  

Think Crazyquiff has hit the nail on the head in his post…

It's not too hard to remove and clean the tank, or use a magnet on a stick to pick the big bits out of the tank through the inspection hole under the rear seats (no tank removal required).

Or you could try a new fuel filter if you haven't already replaced it…

HTH

Rich

mcscrew said

…. or use a magnet on a stick to pick the big bits out of the tank through the inspection hole under the rear seats (no tank removal required).

I assume it would be best to run the tank low on fuel before attempting this?

i have put a new fuel filter on mine, and after a few miles of driving, it died again, and there was loads of dirt in the new filter 8O , looks like rust    

Hi Guys

This is exactly what mine has been doing, at 1st it kept cutting out, so i put a new fuel filter on, then for it to do it again but what it does now is seems to keep running but constantly kangarooing, have looked at the fuel filter and it seems to have rusty bits in it.

Does any1 no if the magnet in the tank trick will do the job (has it worked for them) or am i best off just getting a new tank, as my filler neck seems to be rusty aswell, how easy is fitting a new filler neck

Thanks Kenno

Hi,the main problem with these cars just coming out of a winter with a hole in the rotten filler neck is water in the tank,this plays hell with the running,look close at the filter and see if any water is in the bottom of it
Bert

Actually changing the filler neck is easy, but it'll be rusty screws (3 around filler neck on the bodywork, and 2 on flexible pipe on the other end) which hold it on that will take you time and cause you frustration! The good news is that you don't need to remove the rear beam to change the filler neck though.

I advise plenty of WD40, and use the correct screwdriver in the screws first time, or you'll be likely to strip the heads. Other than that, plenty of elbow grease ought to do the job.

Crazyquiff on here can sort you out with a new filler neck I'm sure.

I found the magnet on a stick is ok for larger bits of rust , but the problem is that the magnet keeps sticking to the tank rather than to the rust. Given enough time you'd be able to remove all the rust, but it will be a long and tiresome process.

I removed the fuel tank instead (unfortunately this also means dropping the rear beam) and flushed it through with some clean petrol. Don't use water unless you've got a vacuum hose or a compressed air line to get all the water out again! Also make sure that when draining the tank through the filler neck entrance pipe, the little flap in the entrance is pushed open (prod with a screwdriver).

Hope all this helps

Rich

Cheers for all your help, i have bought a non gen filler neck, for ?18.00 its for a mark 1 hatchback, one for the cab was ?115 + vat from vag and there was no none gen one listed that i could find. Have looked on some previous forums and the only difference is between them "i think" is the length.
Was thinking about having ago at it at home, but gonna take it to work so i can drop the tank and jet wash it out and then properly dry it out with air line, let you no how its goes and if it cures my problem

Thanks Kenno

Classic water in the tank problems. Check the filler neck, the tank itself and the small rubber tube that goes between the neck and the tank.

The car can die at any point because water will occasionally get sucked into the carb and thus into the engine, result no power. Then it will mysteriously be ok again for a while before it completely cuts out again.

Been there! Nasty problem to diagnose.

Cheers,

Drew.

yea i would second that  :mrgreen:

HI GUYS,
I THINK I MAY HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM, "WHAT DO YOU THINK"
WON`T NO FOR SURE UNTIL ALL BUILT BACK UP TOMOZ WITH TANK DRYED, ETC JET WASHED IT OUT THEN RUN AN AIR LINE THROUGH IT, BUT GONNA RUN AN AIRLINE THROUGH AGAIN TOMOZ. AS FOR THE DIFFERENCE IN FILLER NECKS, NOT COME TO FITTING THE NEW ONE YET BUT JUSTS SEEMS TO BE LONGER SO SHOULD NOT BE A PROBLEM THERE.
WILL LET YOU ALL NO TOMOZ IF ITS CURED, OR IF ITS BACK TO DRAWING BOARD

THANKS KENNO

let us know if it was ok!

looks like the victim

Hi Guys

Fitted the tin top filler neck, not so much of a hard job at all, just required cutting shorter, although it was not exactly the same, as the cab one had i bend at the end and the tin top one did not. I would recommend getting a longer flexy fuel pipe from the filler neck to the tank to accomodate for this bend in the pipe not being there.

I also cleaned tank out and then cleaned carb and mine seems to be running fine again

thanks for all your help

kenno