Temp needle stays mainly in cold sector...
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#791725
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Temp needle stays mainly in cold sector...
Where should be be normally when your cruising along at 40/50/60?
Also not alot of heat comes from the vents (not by the windows on each side but like windscreen and footwell)
Stuck thermostat? How do I fix it? If it needs to be fixed?
Cheers guys
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Oil temp runs 88 - 98 sort of range
If it ain't broke ….
MP
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Anyone else?
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Local Hero
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Its:
Solid white for a mm then 3/4mm of black then the 15mm section with the warning light.
Traveling along at a constant speed its in the 3/4mm bit ("cold" sector according to the manual) then when in traffic it moves up to the middle of the larger section ("warm" in the manual), usually to the middle where the fan kicks in.
I'll take a picture when I get a chance
Posted
Local Hero
Try a new thermostat (cheap) and coolant. It is worth sorting out as the engines efficiency will be harmed if its runs cold, also you might notice heater isn't very warm.
Cheers
1981 1600 GTI (coming to a road near you soon…)
1983 1100 C
1983 1100 C
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Full system flush?
I'll see how much the part is
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Local Hero
Cheers
1981 1600 GTI (coming to a road near you soon…)
1983 1100 C
1983 1100 C
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I'll get it along with vac pipes tomorrow
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Its fixed!
The old one (probably original) was opening far too early
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Newbie
I have just read your thread and I was wondering when you started your car in the morning would the autpchoke kick n striaght away or would you have to warm the car. The reason I ask is that I have a problem which is startng to get expensive. When I start the car in the maorning I hae to keep the car ticking over unit it gets warm enough for the autochoke to kick in. I noticed that it does seem to get very warm according to the temp gauge and when you said about the problem you were having it sounded very much like the issues I have been having. So far I have replaced the autochoke and the switches that control them and had the wax stat valve replaced. Does the nice person who suggested how to fix your car got any ideas if this is the same problem as your.
Posted
Local Hero
turn key to position 1.
press the accelarator peddle down to the floor and off again (if its really cold do this twice) then start the car. this sets the autochoke to on before the car is started and it should fire up and run at 1500-2000 rpm before settling back to 900 ish once warm. if that doesn't work you need to check the kick down lever on the carb is in the right place (its the little lever above the thottle cam on the left that turns the choke off whilst the car is being revved)
if its not this then maybe time to look at a manual choke conversion.
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Press the throttle once before starting then turn it over and it goes up to 2k then slowly increases to 3k.
Touch the throttle again and it drops down to 1k and then slowly makes it way back up to between 1.4 and 1.8k..
Problem with mine is that it cuts off far too early, IE cold solid on the temp gauge and it will idle at 400/500 and progressively work its way up to normal 900ish RPM as it gets warmer.
As for your problem, try adjusting the screw on the front of the auto choke, its a small screw and hard to get to but turn it inwards a turn or so and see what happens. This adjusts the choke butterfly valve, I did mine too much clockwise (3 turns) and it didn't have enough air so it was very lumpy, turned it anti-clockwise back another 2 full turns, got better but still would be slightly lumpy, another half term seems to have sorted it nicely.
Thing is my idle when fully warm (even when it was spot on 2 weeks ago) has now decided it wants to idle 50-100RPM lower :roll:
Fun and games it really is.
Im going to get the mechanic to do engine mounts as well as mixture, timing and anything else he recons needs doing…
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