Car hoods direct

This one the spikes that hold the retainer rod had rusted thin some had fell off and the rod was so thin it’d leaked and been like that for years.

One of the corner straps not been stapled in.
This work was all done by a professional trimmer I was told.


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WATERNAIR said

Wow that looks incredible, makes me realise how bad mine is.
I just hope my rear window frame is good but no way of knowing that until the day comes.

I'd rather have chortle do it than anyone else its just the distance from home and if it cant be done in a day I'd be a bit stuffed

That is why I only do them at my place, and I would imagine that if you had a buddy drive you down, and left the car with him, you would be tickeled pink when he was done.  I have had folks drive to me from 200 miles away,  Left the Car, and went home for a week…. when they returned they were so pleased.  The called me when they got home, and told me they got in a heavy rain, and the Car didn't rain inside…. It was so much more quiet (the "A" pillar wasn't flat and vibrated so loud prior)…. I guess they weren't expecting someone who Cared about his work, and how the top fit and sealed.

I have even had folks tell me that they would fly me out to do theirs…. (Just can't get all my tools on a flight).

WATERNAIR said

Ah didnt consider that, at worst I could have it as a cabbie van until I sourced a new rear window frame if indeed mine was knackered

I dont want to jinx anything but I'd like to think as my car has only done 42k and seen very little of the elements that things should be in pretty good order

That is what they all say…. Until the reveal.
LOLOLOLOL……….

True
I have customers from Scotland, Wales Ireland.
Last week a customer drive from Glasgow, he’d had a new roof fitted by s furniture upholsterer.
Rear window frame was shot so they cobbled it together sent it home all wonky.
They’d used bits of bungee cord instead of proper tension bands.
He then sourced a frame from somewhere that didn’t even have the nuts welded in st the bottom to bolt it into place.


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Hastened to add he needed all new gear inc a new top that’s two new tops in under 2 years.


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To check the rear window frame kneel on back seat look out window locate the rubber seal as it laps over the frame.
Peel the seal away from the frame at the bottom and run your finger under and around the frame if rust falls out it’s more than likely the frame is goosed.

I have frames in stock so should have everything needed.
I don’t carry Headliner as they are ordered once i know certain measurements.



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Before I forget, Chortle, thanks for the heads up on those clamps (rear window frame).  I used Hi-Teck Gaskets and those clamps on my Smoker and I have no smoke loss between the firebox, and my Stack….. more smoke better flavor, and quicker cooking time…..

1985

I’m happy to price stuff up for you.
If you want me to supply cables frames etc


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chortle said

To check the rear window frame kneel on back seat look out window locate the rubber seal as it laps over the frame.
Peel the seal away from the frame at the bottom and run your finger under and around the frame if rust falls out it’s more than likely the frame is goosed.

I have frames in stock so should have everything needed.
I don’t carry Headliner as they are ordered once i know certain measurements.



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If you get your finger cut while running it around the frame get a tetanus shot.

I can see an open return train ticket being purchased soon

Just roof and rear window frame done in a day.
If it’s full refurb then 2-3 days.
But like Briano points out I’ve ended having cars longer, because once you open the can of worms


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Easiest top to replace.. 1958-1969 MG's/Austin Healey's mk1, mk2……..

If it ever stops raining today I'll uncover my golf and check the rear window frame.

As a minimum its going to be head liner, cables and outer roof

How much to guarantee a dry drive to and from you?
Me and the Golf dont do rainy days

If you’re having new headliner then you’ll need a new interliner and padding.
The odds are it’ll be passed it’s sell by date.
There’s every chance it’ll rip when you try and remove it.
It’s stapled across the rear bow and by now the cloth will be deteriorating


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While I have personally seen horsehair get a couple of skins, as it wasn't that bad or the coverlet.  But I am not convinced that foam is sub-par.  

I came across UV/Mold resistant Foam for Boat cushions…. in different thickness, and compression.

I have personally seen foam bits off a old Super Beetle that I redid, that was 25 years old still viable and not rotted or damaged. I won't ever do a Beetle again as the
number of staples is absurd.  I though the 300 or so on a Cabriolet was bad with 3/4 of them in the rear window and rear bow… I think the Beetle took well over 1000.

It isn't so much as using a pneumatic stapler is easy on the hand, it was the pulling and smoothing out the old ones that was the Keister jerker.
 

My experience with the foam is I bought a kit from the USA.
I installed it then went to close the roof only to find it wasn’t possible.
The foam was way too thick and foiled the frame.

Secondly was that the aeration of the foam meant that it held the water really well.
Only way to get water out was to squeeze the foam.
It remained damp.
With the horse hair paid the air spacing is different and allows for better air flow so any moisture can evaporate easier.
I agree in normal operation it wouldn’t get that soaking wet.




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